Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just thought that I'd share my install. It was pretty much a piece of cake. I chose to connect the battery meter to the front marker light lead because of ease of access.

First I read the meager instructions that came with the meter. Then I checked the electrical schematics and located the front marker light wire that is only on when the ignition key is on.

This would be the blue wire connected to the front signal inside the headlight beezel ( or whatever you want to call it.)

I broke out the Fluke volt/ohm meter, disconnected the black wire from the signal light and and tested the blue wire to verify that the lead was only powered when the key was in the on position.
 

Attachments

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I laced the leads from the LED batter meter through the opening in the bottom of the headlight beezel and stripped off about 4 inches of the outer protective sheath.

I soldered an open pronged connector to the black ground wire, removed the nut securing the signal stalk to the headlight beezel and cleaned the surfaces a bit with a small wire brush.

I placed the pronged connector under the washer and re-installed the nut to secure the signal light stalk.
 

Attachments

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I simply inserted the red lead from the LED battery meter inside the bullet connector (male end) on the black wire that I disconnected from the blue wire.

It will slide right inside. I soldered the red lead to the neck of the male connector.
 

Attachments

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
After soldering the red lead into the male connector, I reconnected the signal light lead to the blue wire and tested the LED battery meter with the key off and in the on position.

After verifying that the meter was only on when the key was in the on position, I remounted the headlight in the beezel. (or whatever you prefer to call it.)
 

Attachments

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Being pressed for time (I'm also working on the fixing things in the house. Guess which one comes first in priority...) I mounted the LED battery meter to a small 90 degree bracket using the adhesive pad on the back and used a small double-sided adhesive pad to attach the bracket to the top of the beezel cover above the gas gauge.

I'll make a more permanent mounting when I get the time.

This is the meter with the ignition key off.
 

Attachments

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This is the meter with the key on but the engine off.
 

Attachments

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
This is the meter with the engine on at idle.

The entire process took perhaps an hour at a very unhurried pace.

It's NEVER a good idea to hurry through anything electrical with this system. It's pretty unforgiving.

This isn't as accurate as going the extra mile and installing it (and the extra necessary do-dads) directly to the battery, but it's just the motorcycle equivalent of an idiot light on a car dashboard anyway.

If it indicates a problem, time to break out the multi-meter and trace it down.

Not rocket science but perhaps this will help someone in the future.
 

Attachments

·
2014 KLR 650!
Joined
·
3,365 Posts
I just stripped a 1/4 inch from the leads going to the forward right running light and wrapped it with tape. As long as the meter behaved the same all the time there was no need to worry. What it reads really isn't that important.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,237 Posts
Like the way you mounted it. Stuck mine on the handlebar clamp with sticky foam.
 

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Like the way you mounted it. Stuck mine on the handlebar clamp with sticky foam.
I kinda like it where it's at, so I'm probably gonna permanently mount it right there. Maybe use some JB Weld since it can be filed into pretty much what ever shape you want after it cures. That way it won't look like just a lump of putty stuck on the top.
 

·
HarryTX
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I just stripped a 1/4 inch from the leads going to the forward right running light and wrapped it with tape. As long as the meter behaved the same all the time there was no need to worry. What it reads really isn't that important.
That will work too. I connected it the way I did because that way if I want to remove it later, all I have to do is snip the red meter lead at the solder and plug the male connector end back in and the insulation remains undamaged.

But, hey... if it works and you like it, that's what matters. it's all good.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top