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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've decided to bite the bullet and start on removing the carbs from my 92 VN 750. Currently, it runs fine with choke on, but once I turn off the choke, it won't run idle. I've tried a few additives to clean it without removing, to no avail. So my main objective is to clean the pilot jets.

However, I was wondering whether it would do any harm to inject some carb cleaner directly in the float chamber, without separating the two carbs (that would add complexity to this mini-project, which is hard enough as it is given my lack of mechanical experience :)? Would it do damage to the float, given that it's made of plastic/rubber of some sort?

thanks in advance!
 

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It shouldn't harm the floats, but I'd rinse it after with fuel. If your pilot jet(s) are clogged you will have to remove the the float bowl to get to them.
Be careful spraying into the carb, as it can blow back at you (read as wear eye protection)
Folks have successfully removed the float bowls with out taking the carbs off...but not an easy thing to accomplish.
 

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It won't hurt the parts, but won't help much.

It could make things worse if the cleaner is sprayed into a dry bowl. Any dirt loosened is then free to migrate into the jets and passages.

I have seen carb cleaner melt the tips of certain needle valves, but ours are rubber and I haven't seen it yet on the VN.

Have to bite the bullet and tear them apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the replies! I will hold off on spraying carb cleaner directly in the float chamber; perhaps some compressed air only.

I thought I'd be able to unscrew the pilot jets by opening up the covers (with the drain) at the bottom of each carb?
 

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It has been done by removing the float chambers with the carbs in place. Seemed tricky and tedious to me, but if you still have the airbox, removing the carbs is no easy job either.

Need a 90° screwdriver for the screws, then I would try a wrench or socket instead of screwdriver for the jets. Some have replaced the bowl screws with hex head bolts to make the next time easier.

One thing with doing this on the bike, you can't work on the other passages in the carb as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah, sorry, then I must be mistaken on my end. I thought the float chamber was the name of the part which had the float in it (the big rubber piece). It seems you are referring to the drain part which holds the jets?

I've tried removing the drain covers with carbs in place and use a hooked screwdriver to unscrew the pilots, but that was mission impossible (sort of). Just couldn't get a good visual on the jets and enough room to screw them out properly. So I'll remove the carbs for easy access to the jets. Just wanted to prevent to break up the two carbs to access the float :/
 

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Yes, sorry...on these carbs the part is called the "drain cover" (the triangular plate on the bottom of the carb) on some carburetors (Mikuni) the chamber that houses the floats is called the "float bowl", it's the actual container that holds the fuel and the float, needle valve and needle seat. Both of these give access to the jets. The "bowl" on the Vulcan is a seperate chamber, due to I guess, because of the angle the carbs sit on the motor.
Being old school I keep calling it the float bowl...sorry.

Good photos here:

https://m.imgur.com/a/MXhCi
 

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Discussion Starter #8
cool thx. I'm on the same page now :). Hopefully the bike will idle properly after having cleaned out the jets...
 

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cool thx. I'm on the same page now :). Hopefully the bike will idle properly after having cleaned out the jets...
Yes, that's most likely a clogged pilot jet or clogged idle circuit. It's worth trying.

Working from memory, I mistakenly included the float chamber as access to the jets, this is the only carb like this I've dealt with, and I've only done mine once so far.

You're on the right track.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been trying to remove the carbs, but no luck yet. Given that the tank is off (amongst others), I do have a better sight at the drain 'chambers' and will attempt to remove the jets like it is now.

Question: in the attached pic, the piece (in red) on the cylinder is blocking my hooked screwdriver. Is it safe to remove that part from the cylinder, or will this cause all kinds of mayhem?
 

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thats the ACCT (automatic cam chain tensioner). it can be removed, without causing issues, just dont rotate the engine with it out. also, there is a specific procedure for reinstalling, where it takes about 3 hands and your tongue at just the right angle. not impossible, but not as easy as just running the 2 bolts that hold it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ah ok, thanks! will leave that on for now then. Gotta be an easier way to get those jets out. Loosened all boots from the carbs, but no luck getting it out just now.

Also when removing the fuel tank, the hoses from the petcock (to both the carbs) were ripped where it's attached to the petcock :/. I can probably reinstall without replacing the hoses by simply swapping their positions (they've become about an inch shorter now).. But first things first...
 

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Most people that still have the airbox, will tie it up as high as possible to free up some space. It might also help to push the airbox forward some.

One carb holder stays on the engine, and one stays with it's carb. I forget which is which, and I just looked it up in the manual for someone last week. You might see the thread in the carb section if you haven't downloaded the repair manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I read that too and I believe the boot to the front cylinder stays on the cylinder, and the one to the rear stays on the carb. I loosened the screws for those and used some WD40 to try to wiggle them off, but no luck yet... Got the airbox somewhat higher by wedging something between the box and the frame. Perhaps I can move it even further (without breaking anything)...
 
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