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Discussion Starter #1
I'm changing the ignition and relocating it, but theres like 7 wires that go to the puck and i'm changing it to an on/off switch, there are three prongs on the switch i got, my question is which wires do i use?
 

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Sparky!!!
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i assume three prongs on switch are Ignition, Battery, and Accessory? If so the fallowing should do it for you. This also assumes you have a stock wiring harness.

Yellow= Ignition
Red= Accessory
Orange/Green strip = Accessory
White = battery
Red/Blue Stripe= Acessory
white/black stripe=Battery
Brown/white Stripe=Acessory
 

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I would say that you need to do some research with some schematics. I think there are a few things that go through the ignition switch. more then just the ignition to start the bike.
 

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Your main problem is, you need to complete 3 indipendent circuts, thus requiring 3 switches or a Three Pole Single Throw switch. You can't use the one you have.

How to wire it:
Circut 1
O/G - W/B

Circut 2
R - L

Circut 3
Y + Br - W

This is only for on and off.
 

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Sparky!!!
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umm guys... my above post works... its done... my bike has been wired as such for several years now. ifixf18's I studied the schematics for over a year before I finally wired it up. but then again, I had nothing else to do besides study wiring diagrams that year and shoot big guns.

Rebel13, your schematic shows the ignition wire (Yellow) running to the headlights (Orange/Green). The lights are on the accessory side of the stock ignition switch, when you turn the key backwards, the lights come on, but the ignition stays cold. Red wire is tail lights and power for the turnsignals, again an accessory. Brown/White is the brake light switch and gauge lights, again an accessory. The White Wire and White/Black wire both run to the main fuse on the Junction Box, hence Battery.

Your main problem is, you need to complete 3 indipendent circuts, thus requiring 3 switches or a Three Pole Single Throw switch. You can't use the one you have.
this is completely untrue... I am running a three pole ignition switch with an off, on and accessory wired up just as i posted above. I have even more schematics and video clips to prove it works.
 

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Your schematic is different then mine. I'm just relaying how to do it with my schematic. I'm sure you can wire it differently, no doubt about that. It took 5 minutes to look at mine and type how to do it....
 

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Sparky!!!
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same schematic... just from different sources. yours aprears to be the clymer and mine is form the actual factory service manual. the only problem with the way your post is said is that the yellow wire won't get power and so then the ignition control box won't get power, and the bike won't run.
 

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On circut 3, i quickly rounded Y + Br - W Figuring W was a hot wire. I could have been wrong. Either way, all need to be connect to be in run and all disconneted to be off. Like I said before, it can be wired differently. I'm sure if you really wanted to hot wire it, you can just hook up 2-3 wires and be gone~
 

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Hi guys. Been lurking here for a few years now, and done a few of the mods shown on the site. One of the more recent ones was the coil relay. But I did that when I was working out some issues that I've been having with my ignition switch. I figured that while I was in there - you know the rest. Long story short, I've re-soldered my ignition switch a few times and this last time it was apparent that the whole puck was trashed beyond repair. Since I'm a DIY'er at heart, I figured I would just fix/mod it rather than buy a new one and replace. I was able to make it work with only two switches. Basically I did one switch for the ignition to provide power to the kill/start switch circuit (and subsequent relay) and the other for the lighting circuits. I personally have never had a need for the parking light circuit, so I don't have a need for a third switch. Unless I've missed some major point in the rather convoluted wiring system of our bikes...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanx slim it works great
 
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