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Sparky!!!
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Kid, How is your wiring abilities and electrical knowledge? I ask, because I can show you a way to fix all your electrical gremblins in one fowl swoop.

Items needed:
Ignition switch NAPA PN: MPE KS6180SB $15.30
5 Pin Standard Automotive Relay (x4): eBay : $14.95 + s&h
6 circuit Fuse Block: eBay $17.95
12 and 14 gauge wire in various colors (the more colors the better)
MPFSET R/R and TPE Stator.
just fallow this diagram and you can't go wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't done a ton of electrical...however...I tend to be a master of YouTube and Google. Figuring things out is part of what I do! I am curious how much of my problem is a bad switch. My thought was start there...see what happens. For all I know, I could drop in a new switch, give it juice, and hear it roar to life... I would hate to start from scratch if I don't have to, but will if necessary.
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
I just posted in your other thread... If that doesn't work, going this route would fix all current and possible future electrical gremlins. It also gets rid of weak electrical components like the fuse box, voltage regulatory, and wimpy harness

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Will this setup work with the stock r/r and stator? Will probably look to mod those at some point...just not yet. Also, how did you branch your cable runs? ie...same color running to multiple points. Did you multi tail terminal or cap/splice. Also, why the difference in terminal use on the ignition from your other setup with the stock harness....my harness was hacked on by someone wiring random stuff in...toggles everywhere it seems.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I will try and answer your questions in order
Will this setup work with the stock r/r and stator?
In short, yes. I wired the stator and the R/R in such a way that I when I finaly did the MOFSET upgrade, all I had to do was unplug the OEM R/R harness from my new harness and make a harness for the new MOFSET R/R. At this point in time, I also made a plug inside the stator cover for both the pulsator coils and the stator, so I could change them out with out having to do too much extra work.
Also, how did you branch your cable runs? ie...same color running to multiple points. Did you multi tail terminal or cap/splice.
I started by running the longest run in the circuit. Starting at the Load (thing that power runs to) and going back to the power source (typically the relay that powers it, or the fuse). Then for the leg spliced in I would again start at the Load and run the wire to the most inconspicuous spot to splice said wire, cut wire to length. Mark where the two wires intersect, and cut the first wire at said spot. I then stripped the three wires bare, slid a piece of heat shrink tubing cut long enough to cover and seal the splice being made. I used a solder butt connector or solder y connector (depending on the angle and the direction the splice ran). I do not fuly understand your last question
Also, why the difference in terminal use on the ignition from your other setup with the stock harness
My stock harness was so badly hacked that I needed a new harness. SO I bought one off of a member here, but the harness he sold me was for an earlier model of VN7XX, it had some extra connectors, a few of the connectors were in the wrong spot, or the wrong shape... Over all in order for me to have made it work was going to require more time and effort than me just building one. Also I was having problems with my Junction Box, and my Ignition Box, so I wanted them gone out of the system as well. My new aftermarket ignition control box warranted a special harness any ways, so I just incorporated it into the system... even though the diagram above doesn't show it (both used pretty much the same schematic), only the new Control Box pushed out more juice to the coils, so need those wires beefed up to 12 gauge wire from 16 gauge wire.

I hope this answered some of your questions
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Slim,

How do the stock sensors/dash factor in to your diagram? My harness is pretty bad, now that I'm getting into it. Ignition switch gave me oil light/speedo light....but nothing else. Lots of splice/random loose stuff up front. Probably going to start over...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On your diagram, bottom left...with yellow coming out of it...3 "blades." What does that represent.
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
Slim,

How do the stock sensors/dash factor in to your diagram? My harness is pretty bad, now that I'm getting into it. Ignition switch gave me oil light/speedo light....but nothing else. Lots of splice/random loose stuff up front. Probably going to start over...
for the dash lights, all of the sending units ground out the circuits, so run a hot wire off of the accessory side of the new ignition switch to all the dash lights (Minus Turn Signals and High Beam Indicator.). Then run a ground wire from the oil pressure switch, to oil light, Neutral switch to neutral light, and a common ground for the turn signals and headlight indicator lights. Run power from the high beam Indicator from the highbeam side of the headlight switch, and power from left turnsignal switch to left turnsignal light, and finally from right turnsignal switch to right turnsignal indicator. (The Reserve Lighting Unit gets scrapped so no Light failure light used) . al the gauge backlights run off of the light circuit before the headlight switch.
On your diagram, bottom left...with yellow coming out of it...3 "blades." What does that represent.
That represents the Stator and R/R
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still processing and I think I am on board. Is this diagram showing key start? Notice it's wired to "S." on the switch. Also, what does "ss diode" refer to? Or is that "starter switch." What are BL (2 grounds?), FBS, RBS? They look like they are on an accessory loop. Just understanding the abbreviations. Lastly (for now), the two looks to be grounds at the top...are those grounds? They appear different, like a switch.

I have never tackled a full rewire...and am trying to make sure I don't create a great deal more work for myself in the long run.

Thanks for your help.
 

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Sparky!!!
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SS=Safety Switches
What are BL (2 grounds?)= actually DL, meaning Dash Indicator Lights.
FBS= Front Brake Switch
RBS= Rear Brake Switch

The diagram shows the star circuit wired through the start function on the switch, although I do not recommend this, and ended up having problems, instead wire the starter button up through the ignition side.

I found you actually only need one diode on the Neutral switch. and just leave off the rest of the safety switches (Clutch Switch and the Side Stand Switch). Also To make it simple, run your main wires from the ignition switch to your fuse box first. you will need to run a hot wire from the battery to the fuse box main fuse (30 amp), then out of the 30 amp fuse to the battery side of the ignition switch. then from the ignition side of the switch to the ignition hot fuses and from Accessory terminal to Accessory Hot Fuses.
Once you have the hot inputs on the fuse box, run your wires to the appropriate relays, and finally to the system they operate. DO each circuit alone, checking with Multi-Meter each circuit for voltage. Also I recommend wiring each circuit in Order of presidence , Starting and ignition system first and lights last. that way you can make sure the bike runs and you can test every part of the electrical system as you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, that all makes sense. Thanks again. It's great to have people that are so willing to help out!

You note that 4 relays are needed. Where is the fourth? I'm only counting three.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I have five relays in my bike, two of which aren't shown. I am using a separate starter relay before the solenoid, and an accessory relay to power a 12 volt power receptical. The Starter Relay gets its power off of the ignition circuit from the ignition switch and pin 87a controls the volt meter
 
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