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Discussion Starter #1
Chalk up another one at 15K. I was in the fast lane during rush hour in LA when all of the sudden I've only got 10 horsepower. So I'm coasting along at 70 jiggling the switch and getting some pretty big pops out of the exhaust wondering if I should head for the shoulder or what when I get this thought: I don't think I want my ignition going through the key switch. I think I'll install a latching relay to the kill switch instead.

I have never had any extra keys dangling from the ignition. Now, where is that wiring diagram?
 

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Heard about some people finding a loose solder wire on the bottom of the switch, that could be your issue.
beavis
 

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There is a known problem, which may or may not be causing your problem. If you have other keys or metal on your key chain and it is hitting your console it has been known to cause the ignition to cut out. I have a cloth fob on mine so the key is in the ignition and there is no way to short out the ignition circuit. So if you have extra keys on your bike keychain, or a metal fob, etc, get it off, and see if that helps.

RB
 

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others (jax or grambo) had to spray some WD40 in the lock with the infamous little red thingie
 

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Hello:

I'm having a similar problem. I know that my r/r is probably shot, as it won't seem to charge the battery, and I get about 50 miles before it dies.

I got a new(used) r/r but before I even got it, my bike died while warming up for a ride, and wouldn't re start. It acts like the kill switch was hit, but it wasn't and still won't start, even with the new r/r.

I pullede the ignition switch, as I had had a problem before, but the solder points all looked okay, just no crank or fire.

I checked fuses, and they all looked okay, but I don't know if there is an ignitor relay or another fuse location to check.

I almost expect that it's a physical problem with the switch, but I can't confirm. Anyone have a switch for a vn700 with about 6 inches of wiring?

Given the previous owner's creative soldering, I'm not even sure the one I have is done right. The colors look stock, but not some of the placements.

It was running fine (until battery died from lack of charge from r/r or stator. (I hope it's r?r-that's easy to fix) until it died in the garage. I'm hoping there is another fuse or something I missed. Any ideas? :sad:
 

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Sharkfood,

Need more background/info, like how long you have had the bike before having the problem?, do you have a new battery?, is it a sealed battery? Just because the battery will not hold a charge does not mean it is the charging system that is the problem. You could have a bad battery. You need to verify that the battery can hold a charge. Have you checked the switch and it's wiring against a wiring diagram to confirm that it is or isn't wired correctly?

RB

Sharkfood said:
Hello:

I'm having a similar problem. I know that my r/r is probably shot, as it won't seem to charge the battery, and I get about 50 miles before it dies.

I got a new(used) r/r but before I even got it, my bike died while warming up for a ride, and wouldn't re start. It acts like the kill switch was hit, but it wasn't and still won't start, even with the new r/r.

I pullede the ignition switch, as I had had a problem before, but the solder points all looked okay, just no crank or fire.

I checked fuses, and they all looked okay, but I don't know if there is an ignitor relay or another fuse location to check.

I almost expect that it's a physical problem with the switch, but I can't confirm. Anyone have a switch for a vn700 with about 6 inches of wiring?

Given the previous owner's creative soldering, I'm not even sure the one I have is done right. The colors look stock, but not some of the placements.

It was running fine (until battery died from lack of charge from r/r or stator. (I hope it's r?r-that's easy to fix) until it died in the garage. I'm hoping there is another fuse or something I missed. Any ideas? :sad:
 

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Im going to assume you put a meter on the battery and verified there is 12 volts or more present, and also that it doesnt fade to zero when you turn on the key (bad or dead battery)

if the 12 volts is present and nothing happens when you turn on the key and push start, you have other trouble besides charging systemm, maybe even no charging problem at all.

how about your ground to frame wire and positive wire, no corosion and tight?
then your vent tube hasnt came off your battery spilling acid into your junction box, right?

maybe this helps
Beavis
 

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I have been having a condition lately where bike will not start until I wiggle the key. That is the starter will not even kick over. HB sw in run, clutch squeezed, kick stand up or down. Once I wiggle the switch, or turn it off and on again it's OK. Have not had it stop while riding, so I haven't done anything about it yet.
I will try the WD-40 first, as soon as I can find one of the red tube thingies that keep flying off into red thingy never never land.
And yes, I do have a Yuasa MF battery. One of the first things I did, even before I had it titled and tagged.
 

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Hey all:

Just wanted to offer a follow up on my original post.

I knew my problem was with the switch, and needed a replacement, but I didn't really want to spend the $95 the local parts shop was quoting me.

Being hopelessly addicted to ebay, I'd been searching for a replacement. I ended up getting a switch with key off of a 1600 for aboput $20, and figured I'd gamble.

God bless Kawasaki. Even though it a frame mount switch, it had all 7 wires, all the right colors, so I held my breath and snipped the old wiring right at the old switch, and the new wiring right at the harness.

A couple quick prayers, some electrical tape and a judicious waving of chicken feet while chanting, and my baby fired right up.

I'ts pretty bad when you get cobwebs on a bike that's stored inside, but sometimes.......

Anyway, right now it looks pretty cheezy with the new switch wire tied to the throttle cable harness, but I was really hoping it would be temporary.

If I can find a good location, I may hard mount it to the frame somewhere, and mill out the otiginal location for a 12 volt accessory socket.

But if anyone is having switch problems, I know a 1600 switch will work, probably others too, as long as there are 7 wires.

Hope this helps.
 

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I've had a similar problem, and am at a loss for how to resolve it...

When the bike is idling & warming up, it will occasionally cut out completely. When I press the starter, it doesn't do anything. I need to turn the key off & back on a few times, then it starts right up.

No big deal, but a few times the bike has cut out while riding down the road doing 60 mph. Just died and coasted to a stop. Turn the key off & on, and it starts right up again.

Any quick fixes? What is this WD40 trick? All the soldiers look good on the switch, so I hate to replace it. I know if I jiggle the switch while the bike is running, it will cut out sometimes too. I don't have a keychain or anything like that, just a plain old key.

I had thought about bypassing the switch with a hidden toggle (but using the switch to lock the fork when parked) but there are a bunch of wires there and I'm not sure which would do the trick. I'd rather figure out how to get the switch working better without having to rig something.
 

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I jusr replaced my ignition switch on McKnight 'cause it wasn't starting consistently. Bought one on eBay - with shipping -for about $40 and all's well. As a first step, check all of your visible wires and see if there's anything looking loose or corroded - I'd go from the "start" switch all the way to the link to the wiring harness. Part of my issue, I think, was a loose solder on one of the wires - but I replaced the whole thing anyway.

I'm planning to pull apart the old switch in the next couple of days, just to see if there was anything going on inside the switch that I couldn't see. I'll let you know if I see something untoward and steer you towards that spot, if needed.
 
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