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EDIT:
For the sake of those reading this many years in the future, and not wanting to read the entire thread, I'll update this first post with final conclusions so everything you need to know is in one place. I will update all the attached files with the latest version as I make improvements.
I wrote logging software for this controller. Attached is the program. It is written in Python 3 script.
Rename it to IgntionLog.py to run it.
It will take a snapshot of the controller every 64 mS.
I set mine up with a 10 degree ignition retard on input 1, a revert to stock timing on input 2, a shift light on output 1, and a MAP sensor to read engine vacuum.
My tuning file is attached with the name Ignition Timing File MM-DD-YYYY.txt. Rename this to .ign to use.
It has a mild advance at part throttle, a big retard at closed throttle above 2K (makes the exhaust pop), a idle locking adjustment, and a rev limiter at 8700.
Shift light starts blinking at 7500 and goes steady at 8500.
This tune uses a MAP sensor. Do not use this tune without one.
To install a MAP sensor, visit my other thread where I talk about reading the carb vacuum.
When I get a chance, I'll post a tune that mimics the stock controller, so people can use this controller to replace a broken stock controller.
Here's a video demo of a cold start with stock timing vs a cold start using this controller, warm idle recovery using stock vs this controller, the rev limiter, the shift light, and the decel pops. I combined it all into one video, where it was 4 videos before.
Conclusion:
So far, it's been worth the effort. The bike behaves a lot better when cold, with a more consistent throttle feel. The idle speed is rock steady across operating temperature, from just warm enough to turn off the choke, to fan kicking on and everything in between. I have deceleration pops that can be turned off with a switch. I can sync the carbs by pinching each carb's hose and reading the idle vacuum on a computer. I'm idling at 7 degrees (vs 5 stock), which should result in less heat at idle. I'll post an update after a hot day. MPG results are still pending.
Original post:
Santa's bringing me one of these this year!
I'm going to play around with it. The unit has two tables that can be selected via a switch.
I'm going to set one table to match the factory spark advance (as a fallback if anything goes wrong while riding).
The second table will be a custom table.
It also has a global retard option that I can switch on/off. I'm going to use it to advance the ignition for premium fuel, and retard back for regular.
It will add a RPM limiter, and an optional shift light (just a little LED I'll tack on somewhere).
I'm adding a MAP sensor to measure carb vacuum and I'm going to advance based off engine vacuum.
I'm planning on linking the two carb vacuum ports to provide a more steady signal to the MAP sensor.
I'm adding T fittings to run to the petcock, the air bypass system, and the MAP sensor off the linked vacuum line.
This carb linking is going to be interesting. At idle, the carb will be able to draw through it's own throttle plate as well as the opposite carb's throttle plate. At least it will be a proper mixture either way. But I expect it to appear like a larger throttle opening than I actually have. Hopefully that only means I readjust the idle. On the other hand, the air in the linking tube might just oscillate back and forth and have minimal effect. At WOT, I don't see it having much effect. The vast majority of air will be drawn through the local carb body, with only a small amount drawn through the opposite carb. This I can test without changing ignition just by rerouting the hoses.
Once I have a working tune, I'll post my settings file online for others to use.
At the very least, this unit would make for a replacement ignition module if someone's original unit failed.
It's under $200 with custom wiring for this bike.
For the sake of those reading this many years in the future, and not wanting to read the entire thread, I'll update this first post with final conclusions so everything you need to know is in one place. I will update all the attached files with the latest version as I make improvements.
I wrote logging software for this controller. Attached is the program. It is written in Python 3 script.
Rename it to IgntionLog.py to run it.
It will take a snapshot of the controller every 64 mS.
I set mine up with a 10 degree ignition retard on input 1, a revert to stock timing on input 2, a shift light on output 1, and a MAP sensor to read engine vacuum.
My tuning file is attached with the name Ignition Timing File MM-DD-YYYY.txt. Rename this to .ign to use.
It has a mild advance at part throttle, a big retard at closed throttle above 2K (makes the exhaust pop), a idle locking adjustment, and a rev limiter at 8700.
Shift light starts blinking at 7500 and goes steady at 8500.
This tune uses a MAP sensor. Do not use this tune without one.
To install a MAP sensor, visit my other thread where I talk about reading the carb vacuum.
When I get a chance, I'll post a tune that mimics the stock controller, so people can use this controller to replace a broken stock controller.
Here's a video demo of a cold start with stock timing vs a cold start using this controller, warm idle recovery using stock vs this controller, the rev limiter, the shift light, and the decel pops. I combined it all into one video, where it was 4 videos before.
Conclusion:
So far, it's been worth the effort. The bike behaves a lot better when cold, with a more consistent throttle feel. The idle speed is rock steady across operating temperature, from just warm enough to turn off the choke, to fan kicking on and everything in between. I have deceleration pops that can be turned off with a switch. I can sync the carbs by pinching each carb's hose and reading the idle vacuum on a computer. I'm idling at 7 degrees (vs 5 stock), which should result in less heat at idle. I'll post an update after a hot day. MPG results are still pending.
Original post:
Santa's bringing me one of these this year!
I'm going to play around with it. The unit has two tables that can be selected via a switch.
I'm going to set one table to match the factory spark advance (as a fallback if anything goes wrong while riding).
The second table will be a custom table.
It also has a global retard option that I can switch on/off. I'm going to use it to advance the ignition for premium fuel, and retard back for regular.
It will add a RPM limiter, and an optional shift light (just a little LED I'll tack on somewhere).
I'm adding a MAP sensor to measure carb vacuum and I'm going to advance based off engine vacuum.
I'm planning on linking the two carb vacuum ports to provide a more steady signal to the MAP sensor.
I'm adding T fittings to run to the petcock, the air bypass system, and the MAP sensor off the linked vacuum line.
This carb linking is going to be interesting. At idle, the carb will be able to draw through it's own throttle plate as well as the opposite carb's throttle plate. At least it will be a proper mixture either way. But I expect it to appear like a larger throttle opening than I actually have. Hopefully that only means I readjust the idle. On the other hand, the air in the linking tube might just oscillate back and forth and have minimal effect. At WOT, I don't see it having much effect. The vast majority of air will be drawn through the local carb body, with only a small amount drawn through the opposite carb. This I can test without changing ignition just by rerouting the hoses.
Once I have a working tune, I'll post my settings file online for others to use.
At the very least, this unit would make for a replacement ignition module if someone's original unit failed.
It's under $200 with custom wiring for this bike.
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