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Discussion Starter #1
OK.. we all know I'm a noob and i did not do well in electronics in scholl.. so here goes
I want to add running lights or a light bar. i understand there are extra leads in the headlight. Am i understanding it correctly that any lights that are added can go right to those leads and they are on with ignition??

If i want a handlebar switch.. does the switch go to those leads and then the lights are wired to the switch??

I have read around on a lot of the posts but i'm not following it all to well
I need something easy
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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I just got some lights for my honda. And the instructions had me get the current from the tach light wire. And then it runs through a switch. The leads in the head light bucket are always hot. If you forget to turn the lights off you came run the batt down.
 

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Running lights can consume a lot of power. In my past life I ran Car stereo shops and did more fog,driving and running lights then I can count..

The best thing to do is run a (fused) line to the battery and have the switch run off a relay. I just added lights to my bike last week.. I was in walmart (of all places) and saw a set of lights that liked just right for a bike.. they cost less then $20 so I thought I would try them out..

I ran a wire from the battery to the headlight (btw keep the fuse as close to the battery as you can). the relay trigger came off the low beam so when I turn on the high the running lights turn off. You can basically run the lights relay off any switch
you want..
 

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I just did this to mine. You can pm me if you need help.

The accessory leads in the headlight are always hot, so you need to run that through a relay to switch it on when the ignition is on.
The connections in the headlight bucket are actually a double bullet connector....meaning you can slide 2 bullet connectors into each lead.

I have mine wired like slim said...except I swapped the "switched" leads for the lights....shouldn't matter since it is just across a switch.

Here is my install:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?p=202995#post202995

use a standard auto relay

Pin 85 is grounded
pin 87 goes to the lights you are installing
pin 30 gets 12 Volts from the accessory leads (fused and always hot) or directly to the battery with an inline fuse.

pin 86 is the control pin to turn the relay "on" or close the relay contacts.

I suggest you tap into any 12V source that is off when the ignition is off, such as the "hot" lead from the hi/low selector for the headlight, or from the running lights in the front turn signal stalks, dashboard back lighting lights, or you can even use the running lights in the tail light.

First run your tapped (switched) 12V source through an installed switch (mounting location of your choice) and then to pin 86, so your control switch will only work if the ignition is on. This will prevent you from leaving the lights on and draining the battery if you forget and walk away. The control voltage running through your mounted switch will not draw very much current, but the current draw through the relay (pins 30 and 87) going to your lights (or other installed item) will depend on the current draw of what you are installing.
 

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You folks always make things so complicated.

The accessory leads in the bucket are always hot. But they are already fused. You can't run more than 70w anyway, so they will do fine. Just run the positive (red/white?) wire to a handlebar switch and then back to the lights.

You'll want to be able to turn the lights off and on anyway, so you might as well give them their own switch.

No relays, no tapping into other circuits are needed.

But, if you want to make it more complicated for the guy, it's his decision....;)
 

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You folks always make things so complicated.

The accessory leads in the bucket are always hot. But they are already fused. You can't run more than 70w anyway, so they will do fine. Just run the positive (red/white?) wire to a handlebar switch and then back to the lights.

You'll want to be able to turn the lights off and on anyway, so you might as well give them their own switch.

No relays, no tapping into other circuits are needed.

But, if you want to make it more complicated for the guy, it's his decision....;)
nothing worth doing is ever easy...lol

with my luck, I would leave the lights on and drain my new AGM battery and get stranded. Push starting the VN750 is no fun....trust me!
 

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nothing worth doing is ever easy...lol

with my luck, I would leave the lights on and drain my new AGM battery and get stranded. Push starting the VN750 is no fun....trust me!
Actually many things that are worth doing are in fact easy. Remembering to turn off your lights is easy.....(for some it seems...;) )

I never had a problem , but then just to make sure, I wired a tiny 12 volt LED inline with the switch. So, if I were to space out and forget for some reason, there was a little, but bright , light there to remind me.

My only reason for posting my solution was the OP said he was not very electrically savvy.... So easy would be the way to go. :)
 

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You folks always make things so complicated.

The accessory leads in the bucket are always hot. But they are already fused. You can't run more than 70w anyway, so they will do fine. Just run the positive (red/white?) wire to a handlebar switch and then back to the lights.

You'll want to be able to turn the lights off and on anyway, so you might as well give them their own switch.

No relays, no tapping into other circuits are needed.

But, if you want to make it more complicated for the guy, it's his decision....;)

Normally I respect your advice. But having installed car audio and alarms for 20 years I can't begin to tell you how wrong you are about this..

I have seen countless cars with burned wires, burned up switches and even melted wiring because someone without electrical experience
thought it was this easy..

First off if you are using a switch that has a 5 or 10 amp rating and your light require a 15 or 20 amp fuse that fuse will protect you if you have a dead short. However, if your switch has a lower rating then your fuse that wire can burn and melt until it shorts to ground or start a fire..

Having said that. this is dependent on a lot of things.. wire size, quality of connections, how the wires are ran and even how long the wire is etc.. When it comes to adding anything that consumes a lot of power it's not worth taking short cuts.. It might work sometimes but more times then not it can cost you big time.
 

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Actually many things that are worth doing are in fact easy. Remembering to turn off your lights is easy.....(for some it seems...;) )
Yup!! CRS is a real problem at times....and yes, if the switch was lighted or had an "on" indicator.....that helps.

haven't left them on yet, but it is my backup just in case. :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i think i found the lights most have been talking about.. optronics at wal-mart for $18.98??
I am wondering about mount points.. my windshield comes down past the horns so i think something like KM's bracket is out. What about the allen bolt on the side of the HL bucket where the stock windshield goes?? This would put the driving lights just in between the HL and the signals???
Also... what bulb is everyone switching down to?? Since these come with 50w and we need to put in 25w. I did not see any bulbs near these that were that output??

Final point.. Lemme see if i have this right... We have 70w of avail power.. If 2 25w bulbs go in and i have a 12v cig socket coming for my battery tender pigtail..that adds to 62w.. right?? i should be ok to run all of these??
 

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Giggity!
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I run the 25w bulbs & like them just fine. They throw enought light to be extra visable & light up the road to the left & right.

Here is a link to the bulbs I purchaced & the link within the post to where to get them.

As for mounting. I used the headlight bucket mounts & just made some tabs to mount them to.
 

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Normally I respect your advice. But having installed car audio and alarms for 20 years I can't begin to tell you how wrong you are about this..

I have seen countless cars with burned wires, burned up switches and even melted wiring because someone without electrical experience
thought it was this easy...
Sorry, it wasn't because it was "easy"....it was because they didn't know what they were doing. Nothing is easier than wiring up two lights to two wires and a switch...if you know how NOT to screw it up.

There was no discussion on switch ratings or wire size yet, so not sure why you'd assume a simple wiring job would be done with the wrong parts.......


I think the lights the OP is talking about use M16 halogen bulbs... But he was not specific on what lights he got. You can find 20w M16 bulbs at Lowes, a d Wal-mart. I don't think you need a 20 amp fuse for them.

But yes, you can mount the lights to anything that you want. The lower fork tube clamp bolt works well.... All you need is a 3 inch piece of strap metal with the needed holes drilled in each end. Bend it to get the lights pointed where you want.

As it was not covered.... I used a heavy duty 120 volt toggle switch and used 16 gauge wires.... Total length not more than 18 inches. I soldered all connections and wrapped with waterproof electrical tape.
 

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we just had a discussion on this not too long ago....
I also used those and installed 20W bulbs as KN said.

Search "optronics" on this site and you will find plenty of information to help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok.. so your using a totally different light..not a replacement bulb
 

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ok.. so your using a totally different light..not a replacement bulb
Who? What?

Most driving lights sold are 55w lights. The bulbs may be diffrent from one model to another, but the bottom line is you can't run 110w no matter whose lights you are using.

The Optronics use M16 halogens which is a sealed unit of bulb and reflector. They sell "flood" and "spot" lights in this size and diffrent wattages. Get the 'spot' if you can. Don't get anything over 25w.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
what i mean is... you bought that light set and then went to the lighting aisle and got 25w lights and used them in place of the ones that came with the set
 

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