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Discussion Starter #1
I have the front tire off for replacement and I ordered the front brakes for tomorrow. However, the Clymer's manual says to pull the pads out. I apparently and dumb because I can't figure it out...can someone help? I really would like to be on the road tomorrow after work.
 

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I have the front tire off for replacement and I ordered the front brakes for tomorrow. However, the Clymer's manual says to pull the pads out. I apparently and dumb because I can't figure it out...can someone help? I really would like to be on the road tomorrow after work.
The small (inside pad) should just pop right out; to get out the larger (outside) pad, you'll need to compress the piston. I found that I couldn't compress it fully by hand, and used a c-clamp to get full retraction. Then the outside pad just popped off.
 

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Hey Cindy, thanks for such a quick response. I'm havin' a hard time with the larger one too....what did you do with the "C" clamp? What would happen if I disconnected the lines to take the caliper to the shop? I can't seem to get this by hand...what's the magic touch? Thanks a bunch
 

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Open the bleeder fitting and then push the piston in. You should probably bleed the system anyway.
 

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also the larger pad has 2 holes on either side you have to pry it over the 2 studs at an angle. it can be a bit tricky but remember if it can go in or on in can come out or over!!!!
 

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Hey Cindy, thanks for such a quick response. I'm havin' a hard time with the larger one too....what did you do with the "C" clamp? What would happen if I disconnected the lines to take the caliper to the shop? I can't seem to get this by hand...what's the magic touch? Thanks a bunch
I just cleaned up six calipers (seem to have developed a couple spare sets in the Orleans rebuild process), but all were off the bike at the time. As Artman said, you should open the bleeder valve to do this; and if you pull the hoses, you'll want to bleed the whole brake line again. If you pull the caliper off the fork (two bolts), use the c-clamp - soft side (if your clamp has one) against the piston, other end around the back of the piston. Just tighten down the clamp until the piston fully retracts. Then the pad should just slip off those two posts. If you have trouble, holler and I'll take pics of the process (four calipers are just sitting around waiting for a photo opp). :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I need to grab some 1/16th in. clear tubing, put it on the bleeder, open the bleeder and then squeeze the piston? I'm sorry guys this is my first time doing this and I can't thank you enough for your patience. :-D
 

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Yes, some brake fluid will come out and you do not want that to get on anything, will stain paint, aluminum, etc. Put the end of the tubing in a small jar to catch what comes out.

You should get very little as the small amount you will compress the piston shoudn't displace much fluid, but just to be safe....

Jon
 

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So I need to grab some 1/16th in. clear tubing, put it on the bleeder, open the bleeder and then squeeze the piston? I'm sorry guys this is my first time doing this and I can't thank you enough for your patience. :-D
That's it, although I'm thinking my bleed hose was 3/16ths... did I post something before? Geez, it feels like a Monday.

I may have this explanation kinda wrong, but here goes my understanding of how these brakes work. These are hydraulic brakes, in that pressure in the lines from the brake fluid works the piston. That is, there's brake fluid behind the piston (not the front pad, but the actual piston) - when you depress the brake lever, it increases the hydraulic pressure, which exerts pressure on the piston, which then moves out (towards the rotor) and applies the brake-age. Release the brake lever, reduce the pressure, the piston retracts.

So, when you are going to remove the pad and need to retract the piston to do this, you want to release the pressure that built up behind the piston mechanism. One way to do this is by opening the bleed valve. When you c-clamp the piston, then as it retracts, it will push brake fluid out of the bleed valve (release of pressure).

Put one end of the hose over the bleed valve nice and tightly; put the other end of the hose into some kind of container - old water bottle, milk jug, something. Brake fluid is apparently very caustic so you don't want to get it on stuff. Open the bleed valve by using a 10mm combo wrench - CCW just a little and you can release just a little of the pressure. When you depress the c-clamp, it'll retract the piston and more fluid will ooze out. Once you've got the pad off, pull the hose off the bleed valve and tighten her down.

No apologies for lack of experience allowed on the Forum! Not a one of us would be here if we hadn't started out lost somewhere along the line. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cindy. I don't remember who said 1/16th but if you say 3/16ths I'll take your word for it. Sounds like you know what you're doing. ;-) I have to run out and get the tubing and a jug of sorts while I wait for the tires to come back. Now only if I could convince you to come to PA and pull my carbs for me....I'll let ya know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also....after I bleed the system do I have to do anything special to get the piston back to where it was or is it just a matter of re-installing the caliper and applying pressure to the break?
 

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If you open the bleed screw, you will have to fully bleed the brakes. Best way I have found is to pump the brake lever a few times to build as much pressure as you can, hold it in on the last pump and tie it pulled. Leave it that way for 24 hours. Then do one more bleed on each cylinder, top off the master if needed, and you're done.

Pistons will seat themselves.

Jon
 

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Cindy. I don't remember who said 1/16th but if you say 3/16ths I'll take your word for it. Sounds like you know what you're doing. ;-) I have to run out and get the tubing and a jug of sorts while I wait for the tires to come back. Now only if I could convince you to come to PA and pull my carbs for me....I'll let ya know how it goes.
Ha ha - I used to live out on Smithbridge Road, down near the Delaware state line (Route 202/Smithbridge). Been gone from there for awhile, however - sorry!

I'll let someone else correct me on this, but I believe since you're only bleeding out a little fluid, you should be able to.... no, wait. Do you have Clymer's manual? There are isntructions for checking the brake fluid levels if you change the pads, particularly if the pads were really worn down. You may need to put in more brake fluid (Dot 3 or 4 only), and that'll involve essentially bleeding the lines. I can send you the info from the manual later tonight - but can someone else (who's also not focusing on work at the moment :p ) chime in?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
http://www.vn750.com/forum/images/smilies/beerchug.gif
:beerchug: I like Smithbridge Rd...It's a nice ride. I live a block from the Media court house. So...I got the brakes taken care of...yes..they are on! something weird that I found....brake fluid is clear?!? The DOT4 was clear...is it supposed to be? I'm going to re-bleed tomorrow just to make sure....Here's the funny thing that I did....I forgot to rebolt the brake swing arm (?) So the entire rear is put back together but that one thing....and I tighten the bolt apparently too tight...Torque wrench said it was fine...now I can't get it off...3AM was real early today...I think I might need sleep....back at it tomorrow!
 

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http://www.vn750.com/forum/images/smilies/beerchug.gif
:beerchug: I like Smithbridge Rd...It's a nice ride. I live a block from the Media court house. So...I got the brakes taken care of...yes..they are on! something weird that I found....brake fluid is clear?!? The DOT4 was clear...is it supposed to be? I'm going to re-bleed tomorrow just to make sure....Here's the funny thing that I did....I forgot to rebolt the brake swing arm (?) So the entire rear is put back together but that one thing....and I tighten the bolt apparently too tight...Torque wrench said it was fine...now I can't get it off...3AM was real early today...I think I might need sleep....back at it tomorrow!
Yep, it's clear. It's the old stuff that's in our lines that's not. Kinda like motor oil...
 

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I always "back" the c-clamp with a piece of softwood. It helps protect the caliper finish and distributes the force over the caliper piston. I haven't had my brakes apart yet so can't advise on the size but it needs to overhang the piston by at least 1/4". This is not as critical if the piston isn't fiber.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys. Final update for ya. I now officially know how to change the brakes, tires, lube splines, and change/bleed the brakes. Flush the coolant and change the oil. All the basics are down. I couldn't have done it without you guys. I am VERY grateful for all the help. Thank you all very much!!
 

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Hey guys. Final update for ya. I now officially know how to change the brakes, tires, lube splines, and change/bleed the brakes. Flush the coolant and change the oil. All the basics are down. I couldn't have done it without you guys. I am VERY grateful for all the help. Thank you all very much!!
Well done! Those are the basic things that keep an engine going - awesome!
 
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