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Discussion Starter #1
I don't even have a license yet but I'm trying to trade for my first bike.

What do I need to look and listen for? The bike is a a local shop and the owner wants some firearms of mine :rockon:
 

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Jack of all trades
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I think you mean 2006... That was the last year they were made lol.

Go over this thread. Look for any leaks and listen for really loud clicking/chattering noises at idle (could be cam chains/adjusters). Ask if the splines are lubed up or if they have to be done. Put the bike on the center stand and rev the snot out of it, if it vibrates like crazy and starts shimmying around the floor the balance dampers need to be replaced. Hop on and squeeze the front brake then try to push the bike forward hard, if there is any issue with the forks you should be able to get a good idea by doing this. Then release the brake and roll forwards and test that front brake to make sure it is firm and not spongy.
 

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Yes baffles can be removed. I chose to degoat and put Sportster muffs on mine. I think they look and sound much better than stock.

I agree, take a look at the charging system before plunking down some $$. If at a dealer, see if they offer any type of warranty.
 

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@ 12 [email protected] walk away ? why??
If its only getting 12V at 4,000 rpm, then the charging system is messed up. Possibly requiring a new stator, which requires the engine to be pulled from the frame to replace.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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If its only getting 12V at 4,000 rpm, then the charging system is messed up. Possibly requiring a new stator, which requires the engine to be pulled from the frame to replace.
X2 every machine has a weak point and on our bikes (VN750) the stator is the weakest link. Just like a car alternator but a major job to replace.

People have been known to charge the battery up with a charger before selling the bike to someone. Since the bike can start and run about 15 miles on battery power alone the "buyer" doesn't know there's a problem until they've gotten the bike home and ridden a few miles.

While there are several ways to test the stator the easiest way is to take a 10mm socket wrench with an extension and remove the seat with by opening the tool box behind the seat and unbolting the 2 small bolts that hold the seat in place revealing the battery which is under the seat. Lift the set out (this all takes 1 minute) to do this. Start the bike in neutral and while 1 person keeps the throttle / engine at 3000+ rpm put a voltage meter on the battery. If at 3000 rpm you don't see at least 14v walk away.

Realize that at 1000 rpm the voltage may be as low as 11.8v but when the engine is reving the voltage should go up.
 

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I would be taking the MSF course before even thinking about getting a bike. Don't expect loud pipes to save your life. They won't. Guaranteed.
 

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X2 every machine has a weak point and on our bikes (VN750) the stator is the weakest link. Just like a car alternator but a major job to replace.

People have been known to charge the battery up with a charger before selling the bike to someone. Since the bike can start and run about 15 miles on battery power alone the "buyer" doesn't know there's a problem until they've gotten the bike home and ridden a few miles.

While there are several ways to test the stator the easiest way is to take a 10mm socket wrench with an extension and remove the seat with by opening the tool box behind the seat and unbolting the 2 small bolts that hold the seat in place revealing the battery which is under the seat. Lift the set out (this all takes 1 minute) to do this. Start the bike in neutral and while 1 person keeps the throttle / engine at 3000+ rpm put a voltage meter on the battery. If at 3000 rpm you don't see at least 14v walk away.

Realize that at 1000 rpm the voltage may be as low as 11.8v but when the engine is reving the voltage should go up.
Seeing the voltage rise smoothly and consistently with every 1,000 rpm rise in engine speed is an ideal situation. My bike does not exhibit this ideal, but stays charged up none the less, and does not require use of a battery charger through the riding season, (unless I do something stupid, like forgetting to turn the key off after working on it. :()

It has been a couple of years since I checked voltage against rpm rise on my scoot and I do not remember all the numbers precisely, but I know voltage stayed in the range from about 12.8 to 13.3V from 2k to 5-6k rpm. It never came close to 13.6 VDC, never mind getting to 14 VDC.

As a matter of fact I believe my voltage peaked at about 4k rpm and actually dropped a tenth of a volt or so as rpms climbed to 5 and 6k rpm. I have no explanation as to why it would do this, but that is my experience.

The stator/alternator on the VN750 is no worse/weaker than that on any other small to medium sized motorcycle.
Most of them have limited capacity to add extra lights, or whatever other load you might desire.

As has been mentioned, the real pain in the @$$ compared to most other motorcycles, is the fact that the engine on the vn 750 has to be pulled or at least tilted in the frame (which is about 90% of the way to pulling it), in order to change the stator. For an inexperienced rider/owner this could be an all day job, even with help from forum members here.

I believe the opening post said the scoot has 12k miles on it. The tires must have been replaced at least once by now.
Ask if the rear splines were lubed when the tire was replaced.

There are two sets of splines.
First is between the driveshaft and final drive on the wheel.
Second is between the final drive and the rear wheel drive hub.

Use of a good Moly lube like Honda Moly60 will probably last for 10k miles on the splines.
That distance is close to how long your rear tire should last, so plan on a spline lube every time you change the rear tire.

Link to fergy,s spline lube procedure:http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274
Wib gets into the final drive to hub cleaning and lube at post #34 I think.
 
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