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Greetings -

does anyone have inputs on how to synchronize my carbs? :doh:

thanks:beerchug:
 

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I used one of these (http://moto.zoic.org/r100gs/redneck.html) which works perfectly.

The key is to remember you are only changing one carb to match the other. The adjustment screw only changes the rear cylinder.

Make very small adjustments and give engine time to settle before making next adjusment.

Jon
 

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On our bike you do need a tee for the left side.
 

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On our bike you do need a tee for the left side.
Yes, this way you can run the engine as long as you need, instead of running off the fuel in the bowls only.

Jon
 

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Yes, this way you can run the engine as long as you need, instead of running off the fuel in the bowls only.

Jon
Understand the concept but how is the T installed? Petcock and carb port to Top of T and VAC Gauge to bottom? Or Petcock to carb via L shape with gauge on one side of T top?
 

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eehhh. I'm not following. A tee is a tee, I don't think that where you hook it up matters.
 

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eehhh. I'm not following. A tee is a tee, I don't think that where you hook it up matters.
Sorry Jace. Didn't know if it made a difference where the gauge tube was connected. To me a straight shot of fuel crossing the top of the T would not seem to create a vacuum in the way fuel entering the bottom of the T and going around a corner to exit out one side of the top of the T would. Guess I'm just over complicating a simple procedure.
 

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I never took my tank off (just turned the petcock to Prime) to sync the carbs, just reached around the right side carb (kinda tight but I got the hose on there) and the left vac port is right there. No Tee needed.
 

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I never took my tank off (just turned the petcock to Prime) to sync the carbs, just reached around the right side carb (kinda tight but I got the hose on there) and the left vac port is right there. No Tee needed.
That's how I did mine. Although I think I put a T in the vacuum line on one side. It's been a while.
 

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You don't need the Tee as long as you are syncing with the tank on and/or just using the fuel left in the float bowls. Keep the petcock is set to PRI, shouldn't be any issues. The Tee is necessary if you are trying to utilize the vac line to keep the vac for the petcock working.
 

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Sorry I'm So Dumb!

Sorry Jace. Didn't know if it made a difference where the gauge tube was connected. To me a straight shot of fuel crossing the top of the T would not seem to create a vacuum in the way fuel entering the bottom of the T and going around a corner to exit out one side of the top of the T would. Guess I'm just over complicating a simple procedure.
I'm such an idiot sometimes! It's a VACUUM line, you dork! There IS NO FUEL in it! :doh: Please everyone, feel free to mentor this newb when I'm being stupid. I won't take offense, promise! Aye yi yi.....
 

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Just two prove how easy this is to do, even I was able to do it in less than 30 minutes. Built myself a two-YooHoo-bottle vacuum tool (see other threads in this forum for specs), put a Tee in (per Jace Bror) to keep fuel flowing, and balanced at idle, 2K and 4K RPM, couple different times, making small (1/8 turn) adjustments. Rear cylinder wasn't pulling enough so evened it up. The vacuum will vary at various RPMs so you kinda have to find a happy medium in adjustment. Does feel smoother running, but could be psychological. Either way, I'm glad I did it as there was an obvious difference in the vacuum of each cylinder.
 

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If youre not an expert, or dont want to take a chance at messing them up, have your local Kawasaki dealer do it.
 

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This link is unfortunately dead.
 
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