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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if the whole electrical system can be safely simplified to running no safety switches at all, just the starter switch, kill switch and lights.

This being an 85 model, I'm constantly running into electrical problems because of old wiring or components and since I really hate electrical troubleshooting, I'm wondering if this can be done and if it won't have any detrimental effects on anything (like the charging system). I'm thinking of buying a bunch of new cable and just wiring stuff up (obviously with your help, I'm no electrical whiz).

All thoughts and advice highly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Slim did it, and NewRider posted up a thing about safety bypasses in Builds....
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Slim did it, and NewRider posted up a thing about safety bypasses in Builds....
perform the bypass 's in JB (Junction Box) ....wiring sb straight forward.

:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I already have the safety bypass... I was thinking of getting rid of the junction box altogether and just run separate relays to the essential stuff. I don't know if that's a bad idea or not though. I have the ability to do it, I just don't have the knowledge to know if it's a good or bad idea.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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I already have the safety bypass... I was thinking of getting rid of the junction box altogether and just run separate relays to the essential stuff. I don't know if that's a bad idea or not though. I have the ability to do it, I just don't have the knowledge to know if it's a good or bad idea.
Slim would be a good source for answers.

:smiley_th
 

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As long as you're putting in new fuses to replace the one's when you toss out the JB, I don't see any problem with it myself. At this point, the only thing my JB is being used for is the fan relay and the fuses. Everything else is bypasses at this point.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I'm not at home right now... I will be home saterday, and will post all the information you will need.

I havea few questions Ceal
1: how simplified are you trying to go.
2: aftermarket universal ignition switch
3: stock Junction box, or are you going to run a custom fuse box?
4: stock charging system and ignition system?
5: is the intake stock.?

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Sparky!!!
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I already have the safety bypass... I was thinking of getting rid of the junction box altogether and just run separate relays to the essential stuff. I don't know if that's a bad idea or not though. I have the ability to do it, I just don't have the knowledge to know if it's a good or bad idea.
I ran my own automotive relays (pictured in my schematic above) and my own fuse box, removing as much of the circuits as I could. My diagram above shows the safety switches still there, which are no longer in my system. I do have the NSS (neutral safety switch) incorporated to my Starter Solenoid ground circuit. so in order for the Starter Solenoid to ground out, the transmission has to be in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not at home right now... I will be home saterday, and will post all the information you will need.

I havea few questions Ceal
1: how simplified are you trying to go.
2: aftermarket universal ignition switch
3: stock Junction box, or are you going to run a custom fuse box?
4: stock charging system and ignition system?
5: is the intake stock.?

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
1.- I was shooting for bare essentials to keep the bike running and have all lights working too.
2.- Didn't think about that, I wouldn't mind if I had to put a universal one in.
3.- I was thinking of getting the stock junction box out of there, but seeing the wiring diagram you just put up, it would probably be easier for me to just ground out all the safety switches and keep everything else stock (just like I'm running it now).
4.- Yes.
5.- So far, yes. Although, all I'm missing to do an earshave is the pod filters. Well, I did the marbling, so maybe not absolutely stock.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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Got a quick question for Slim myself, or anybody who knows the answer. I've always been able to start my bike while it's in gear as long as the clutch is pulled in. Is this normal or has some switch been bypassed?
 

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Dr. Vulcanstein
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If I'm not mistaken you can start it in first as long as the clutch is pulled and the kickstand is up.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Got a quick question for Slim myself, or anybody who knows the answer. I've always been able to start my bike while it's in gear as long as the clutch is pulled in. Is this normal or has some switch been bypassed?
Yes, normal

:smiley_th
 

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If I'm not mistaken you can start it in first as long as the clutch is pulled and the kickstand is up.
It will start in gear with the kickstand down, if the clutch is pulled in. Should begin to stall as the clutch is released. Mine just starts to pull, then it will die if the stand is down.
 

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Sparky!!!
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To start the bike, you can have the kick stand either up or down in gear as long as the clutch is pulled in. If the kickstand is down, the engine will die when you let out the clutch.
 

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Sparky!!!
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1.- I was shooting for bare essentials to keep the bike running and have all lights working too.
2.- Didn't think about that, I wouldn't mind if I had to put a universal one in.
3.- I was thinking of getting the stock junction box out of there, but seeing the wiring diagram you just put up, it would probably be easier for me to just ground out all the safety switches and keep everything else stock (just like I'm running it now).
4.- Yes.
5.- So far, yes. Although, all I'm missing to do an earshave is the pod filters. Well, I did the marbling, so maybe not absolutely stock.
1: My diagram keeps all the dash lights working, (Dash, Headlight, Tail Light, and Turn Signals)
2: A universal Ignition Switch makes a simplified wiring harness so much cleaner, and cuts out a lot of unneeded wires.
3: actually making my own Junction Box wasn't that hard. 15 bucks in parts from eBay, and probably about an hours worth of time to solder the new electrical box together. (Relays and Connectors, Fuse Block, Ear Box Electrical Mod V1.0)
4: OK, I will look for my stock ignition and charging system diagram to help sort out the ignition system harness.
5:The reason I asked about the earshave is that the stock ears make a nice little air tight box to mount your electrical stuff inside. I did a different version of the earshave, I am running a single element Lawn Mower filter from NAPA that cost me around 18 bucks for the filter and another 10 bucks in scrap aluminum. (I took this idea, and then went to NAPA and picked up a SME 708355 air filter. post 3 MORE DOCUMENTATION and Pictures )Once i did the ear shave, I turned my left ear into my Junction Box and ignition switch housing, and used the right ear for mounting my Ignition Control Box and MOFSET R/R (although the stock R/R could also be moved to the right ear as well)
 
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