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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday while out riding I shifted gears and something broke. I'd love some help with where to begin trouble shooting. While in neutral it is fine. Holding the clutch lever in I shift into any gear and get BAD rattling sounds from the final drive. The sound is the same whether the clutch lever is held or not. It doesn't even attempt to move forward. Same in all gears.

Am I a victim of rear spline failure or should I be looking at the clutch first. Maybe U-joint? Any help in deciding where to start is appreciated.
 

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Yesterday while out riding I shifted gears and something broke. I'd love some help with where to begin trouble shooting. While in neutral it is fine. Holding the clutch lever in I shift into any gear and get BAD rattling sounds from the final drive. The sound is the same whether the clutch lever is held or not. It doesn't even attempt to move forward. Same in all gears.

Am I a victim of rear spline failure or should I be looking at the clutch first. Maybe U-joint? Any help in deciding where to start is appreciated.

Yep, sound like the rear splines.... Or something in the transmission. Pull the rear wheel and you'll know.

KM
 

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Daily Rider
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Sounds like the rear splines to me. Put the bike up on the center stand, put it in gear and spin the rear wheel. If you hear the noise in the final drive then you will know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, so what do I need to get back on the road? I know I need a new coupler and likely a differnt shaft assembly. Any thing else?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Sounds bad, but you just need to start searching for a final drive off a parts bike and either order a new coupling or see if you can get them in the same deal. Often $100-$250 will get you back on the road if you search hard enough. I've bought two off of ebay over the years and got the first, drive shaft with coupling and the final drive for $100. Make sure you get photos of the splines so you know it's in good shape.

It's easy to replace, and the coupling comes off the shaft with a circlip so you'll need some circlip pliers similar to the ones in the procedure listed below in my sig. Usually takes about 2 hours to do the job if you have the pliers. Your mileage may vary. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I need the final drive assemblly as well as shaft and coupler?

Thanks for the write up with pics, too. I think I can, I think I can...
 

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You shouldn't need the driveshaft, just the coupler and final drive. Typically, the splines on the end of the coupler that connects to the final drive and the final drive splines are damaged/destroyed.
 

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HAWK
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Very usuall sound if the final drive, drive shaft, or couplier goes bad.
Can be a cheep fix or a bit pricy if the splines on the final drive are bad.
Agree you need to pull the rear tire and fiinal drive to inspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all. I removed the wheel and the coupler is almost completely rounded. Where's the best spot to get a NEW coupler.

Thanks
 

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HAWK
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If the splines on the final drive are good, If so you can pick up a shaft with the coupler on Ebay or just get a new coupler from Kawasaki. They are not that much.
 

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Check the final drive splines too. If they are bad, it will mess up a new coupler. Check ebay and/or post a wanted in the For Sale section of the forum.
 
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