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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I went for a ride Friday. Had troubles with the bike losing power. If I pulled the clutch in, the bike would die altogether. If I kept the throttle on, it'd run, but not all that well. This happened about 5 times in less that 50 miles.
Once I finally made it home, I realized my headlight isn't working, high or low beam.
I just checked the bulb & fuse. They're fine.
There were two of the headlight wires that were rubbing something in the bucket and had some insulation wore of. Got those fixed, hoping I'd see the light. Well, I'm still in the dark ! :(
I was supposed to do some riding tomorrow (Sunday) but now it's looking like I'll be checking that the stator is showing good numbers. :doh:
The ride isn't supposed to start until about noon, so, just maybe, I'm hoping, I'll get things working by then and get a few more rides in before the snow falls.
 

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Search Goddess
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Don't suppose you checked the fuse too did you? If the wires shorted, may have popped the fuse too..
 

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Mine acted similarly, found out two of three stator leads shorted to ground.

Was just enough to keep it running at 1500 rpm or higher, much lower then I knew it would stall and never start without a jump or push.

Let us know what you find out.

Jon
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #4
Dianna said:
Don't suppose you checked the fuse too did you?
Yep, I checked the fuse. Even switched fuses around to be sure.
I did find out the fuse on my Battery Tender was blown though. But that couldn't have had anything to do with this problem. I'm pretty sure I touched the + side to the frame when I hooked up the clamps to check the headlight.

93VN750 said:
Was just enough to keep it running at 1500 rpm or higher, much lower then I knew it would stall and never start without a jump or push.
Well, when it was running good (between problems) it would run/idle fine.
Also, after the < 50 miles I did get in, the bike is still starting fine.
It doesn't seem like the battery isn't getting a charge.

And now I can't find my multimeter !!! :doh:
Off to Wally World to get another.

I should get 50+ volts AC checking the stator, right?
And .3-.5 ohms checking between stator wires? (1-2, 2-3, 3-1)
Back in a while........
 

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hyperbuzzin said:
Yep, I checked the fuse. Even switched fuses around to be sure.
I did find out the fuse on my Battery Tender was blown though. But that couldn't have had anything to do with this problem. I'm pretty sure I touched the + side to the frame when I hooked up the clamps to check the headlight.


Well, when it was running good (between problems) it would run/idle fine.
Also, after the < 50 miles I did get in, the bike is still starting fine.
It doesn't seem like the battery isn't getting a charge.

And now I can't find my multimeter !!! :doh:
Off to Wally World to get another.

I should get 50+ volts AC checking the stator, right?
And .3-.5 ohms checking between stator wires? (1-2, 2-3, 3-1)
Back in a while........
Yes, and more important is infinite resistance from every stator lead to ground.

Jon
 
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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #6
Well, all they had at Wally World were analog meters. :doh:

I just checked quickly, but if I did it right, it looked like I had 0 ohms (opposite end of scale from infinity ??) between all stator leads & battery ground.
Did I do something wrong, or does that mean fried stator?

Then I fried my little finger while getting the bike warmed up, so I'm calling it quits 'till tomorrow.
 

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hyperbuzzin said:
Well, all they had at Wally World were analog meters. :doh:

I just checked quickly, but if I did it right, it looked like I had 0 ohms (opposite end of scale from infinity ??) between all stator leads & battery ground.
Did I do something wrong, or does that mean fried stator?

Then I fried my little finger while getting the bike warmed up, so I'm calling it quits 'till tomorrow.
Did you disconnect the stator leads first? Checked one lead at a time with respect to ground? If so, time to blow taps for the stator and join the club. Sorry.

When you can, return that analog meter and get a dmm. Then check your r/r before you fire up a new stator in there or you may be doing it again. Pretty sure my r/r went and took the stator with it. They were both 13 + years old.

Jon
 

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Buzz, when your finger heals, try to get readings a couple more times. I have had a really hard time getting the leads in there to check the resistance - I remember someone else posting a similar problem, and CEGodsey saying something like, "Just jam them in there." It still could be that your stator's fried, but give it a few more tries.

And, yeah, 40-70 volts is what you want to get with your engine running.

If your stator bit it, looks like you, Jon, and I will all being doing engine pulls in the next couple o' weeks!! :notworthy
 

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Crobins365 said:
Buzz, when your finger heals, try to get readings a couple more times. I have had a really hard time getting the leads in there to check the resistance - I remember someone else posting a similar problem, and CEGodsey saying something like, "Just jam them in there." It still could be that your stator's fried, but give it a few more tries.

And, yeah, 40-70 volts is what you want to get with your engine running.

If your stator bit it, looks like you, Jon, and I will all being doing engine pulls in the next couple o' weeks!! :notworthy
Mine put out 40 -70 Vac unloaded too, still, if it's shorted to ground, it's toast. Current takes the path of least resistance, in the stator's case when shorted, right to the case (ground). That's why the open circuit voltage test for the stator is not as important as it's insulation (from ground).

But Cindy is right, make sure that you have good connections for the test, though, a short (zero ohms) is hard to mistake for anything else in this case.

I might have my motor out today. Decided to pull it completely out so I can clean it up well before putting it back in. Areas of the cylinder heads are pretty bad.

Jon
 

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you really need a Digi meter(just the standard 100M Ohm, 1-20VDC, 1-150 VAC).... the stator leads should read in the market of .4-.6 ohms. this is the resistance of the wire. if you get a solid '1', that means u have a broken wire somewhere. if you get much lower then .4 like .2 or .1 then you know ur windings are shorting in themself, and it may not short to ground. Also check for resistance to ground. you should get a '1'. if there is the smallest resistance, you have an issue... check both hot and cold. also make sure the stator is disconnected. if this is all good, then check the voltages. you should read about 8 VAC at idle. and at 5 rmp you should be getting in the market of 60-80VAC. If all checks out, do the fault finding guide for the R/R unit. In most cases it shorts, but there are some cases where it can just burn a component in the R/R and you get no voltage from it at all....

I hope its just a fuse, as stator failures i've noticed occur a lot less durring the winter.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, disconnected the leads. I was a little hopeful at first 'cause the connectors didn't seem to be too burned up the way some have described. I know I have a digital meter at work, just couldn't find the one I have at home.
I'll try again Cindy. Gonna try getting the stator wires where I can reach them easier this time so I don't have to feel the hot exhaust again. I've felt that thing enough !!
I didn't see what volts the battery is showing with the engine running yet. Which is another reason I'm kinda still hopeful. It seems like the battery is still getting a good charge.
And just so I'm sure, when I check the stator to ground, it's with the engine NOT running but warmed up, correct?
Thanks for the help folks. I've done piston replacements, valve adjustments/replacements and cam & cam chain replacements on my dirtbikes, but have never done any electrical work on them.

Here's to hoping I was just in too much of a hurry lastnight :beerchug:
 

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hyperbuzzin said:
Yeah, disconnected the leads. I was a little hopeful at first 'cause the connectors didn't seem to be too burned up the way some have described. I know I have a digital meter at work, just couldn't find the one I have at home.
I'll try again Cindy. Gonna try getting the stator wires where I can reach them easier this time so I don't have to feel the hot exhaust again. I've felt that thing enough !!
I didn't see what volts the battery is showing with the engine running yet. Which is another reason I'm kinda still hopeful. It seems like the battery is still getting a good charge.
And just so I'm sure, when I check the stator to ground, it's with the engine NOT running but warmed up, correct?
Thanks for the help folks. I've done piston replacements, valve adjustments/replacements and cam & cam chain replacements on my dirtbikes, but have never done any electrical work on them.

Here's to hoping I was just in too much of a hurry lastnight :beerchug:
Yes, both would even be better, sometimes it can be worse when warm.

Jon
 

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Now what
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First you need to have the battery load tested by a decent shop. (Not the dealer, they're mostly dopes) With a known good battery installed, check the voltage at the battery while the bike's running and good and hot. Much easier if you have someone work the throttle or measure the voltage. At 2500 rpm you should get 13.5 volts or more. At 5000, 15.5 or less. If these check out, the stator and R/R are ok. If not, then it's time to do some detective work.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well, I got a digital meter and this doesn't look good now.
Checking stator leads to each other I get 2 reading .5 ohms and one reading .3 ohms
Checking them to ground I get 2 reading .5 ohms and the other at .1 ohms.
Checking battery voltage, while running at idle about 11 something.
At about 4000rpm's 12.5
And, checking AC volts, 2 @ 50+volts, 1 @ 10 :hitanykey
Well, atleast it waited until things got colder to go kaput !
And, luckily I have a heated garage to work in. I just have to get my dad to hold off on his woodworking.
Thanks again everyone.
Let the wrenching begin !!! :BLAM:
 

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hyperbuzzin said:
Well, I got a digital meter and this doesn't look good now.
Checking stator leads to each other I get 2 reading .5 ohms and one reading .3 ohms
Checking them to ground I get 2 reading .5 ohms and the other at .1 ohms.
Checking battery voltage, while running at idle about 12.5.
At higher RPM's 11 something
And, checking AC volts, 2 @ 50+volts, 1 @ 10 :hitanykey
Well, atleast it waited until things got colder to go kaput !
And, luckily I have a heated garage to work in. I just have to get my dad to hold off on his woodworking.
Thanks again everyone.
Let the wrenching begin !!! :BLAM:
Use that dmm to test the r/r and find out its state. You can use this (http://tinyurl.com/y8cbsc) to help test thr r/r.

Get your battery load tested, as already has been said, do not go to the bike dealer. Take battery to Autozone, or Advanced Auto Parts (and others) and they will load test it.

I have a new AGM battery, r/r, and soon stator. I got my stator and r/r here (http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/). Did a lot of research and in talking with the owner, believe they make a superior part to the OEM units. Prices shown are shipped to you. Perhaps can be had cheaper, I don't know about better. I don't want to do this again anytime sooner. Uses larger components on the r/r in more area, uses higher temp mag wire and higher temp epoxy on the stator than the OEM's.

Welcome to the club!

Jon
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #16
Well, a hardy (yet wish I didn't have to) Thank you for the welcome to the Fried Stator Club !!:beerchug:
I did make a slight mis-print on my battery voltage readings. At idle I was getting 11+ volts and at about 4000rpm's 12+.
It'll be edited.
Thanks also for the links Jon.

On a side note:
When I went to the Electrosport site for the trouble shooting flow chart, my adobe said it couldn't decipher it?
 

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Instead of Adobe, try Foxit Reader. It's smaller, faster, and I have had no problems opening any .pdf file with it. If you insist on Adobe. you may have to upgrade to version 7.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #18
Sky Rider said:
you may have to upgrade to version 7.
That's what I figured. I did get a message awhile ago when I opened another pdf file that said something about upgrading, but haven't had any problems until now.
Guess I'll upgrade that as well as my stator !
Thanks Jim.
 

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hyperbuzzin said:
That's what I figured. I did get a message awhile ago when I opened another pdf file that said something about upgrading, but haven't had any problems until now.
Guess I'll upgrade that as well as my stator !
Thanks Jim.
Now that's a bad weekend! Good luck, Buzz - I'll be right behind you (looks like Jon beat us to the engine pull!).
 

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Crobins365 said:
Now that's a bad weekend! Good luck, Buzz - I'll be right behind you (looks like Jon beat us to the engine pull!).
It's not out yet......but before the end of this week for sure.

Spent 6 hours putting up xmas lights on the outside of the house this weekend.

Jon
 
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