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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sounds like i got some grinding going on towards my final gear when riding down the road... and its only when im standing on the gas.. never while decelerating. And also the tranny never slips or feels odd, never any loss of power or nothing like that... anyone guess what my prob could be?? I need facts yall, condense hard facts..
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now i have heard or the infamous "coffee grinder" sounds coming from the rear end but dont completely understand.. my "sound" is coming from the rear end on my left side if ur riding the bike
 

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Coffee grinder is when you release the clutch lever and there is a very brief "soft grind" sound as the clutch slips, then once it engages, there is no more sound. Usually only happens a couple times at the very start of a ride.

Rough grinds from the rear end is usually the spines at the end of the drive shaft where it meets the final drive. An inadequately lubed spline coupling will rust out and eat itself alive. It's appearance is usually pretty sudden and is accompanied by power loss since the drive shaft is no longer driving the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So yea i have deff heard the soft grinding when engaging my clutch, now i just prime the clutch about 12 times before each ride and that pretty much takes care of it.. far as the other sound goes, its not even really a grinding noise per say but rather a soft knocking maybe? Mixed with a lil faint grinding? Idk really not sure how 2 put into words the sound im hearing but as i said ive had NO loss of torque or top end that i can notice anyways.. deff could be a spine tho, unfortunately i have no idea how to troubleshoot that kinda issue and even if i did i still have no experience in the annual maintenance of spines on these bikes so maybe a few youtube vids would come in handy there idk? What do u think? And or any tips on the process of checking the spines to c if everything looks okay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will say that i just changed my final drive oil last week and while i had the re fill cap off i did spin my back tire so i could see the actual "Final gear" in it entirety and everything looked okay in ther from what i could see but u never kno i guess.. also will note that the teeth on that gear were A ok along with NO TRASH or metal fragments inside the old oil..
 

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There’s a good thread on the forum but I’ve seen some folks having issues with the


These are pics of my very dry, unlubed, splines. I had a mechanic do them. I’m not set up for it at home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay so just to be clear here.. judging by the pic you just posted, this is NOT a project for a intermediate bike mechanic.. and a low end intermediate mechanic mite i add?? The only **** part about needing my bike worked on at a shop is the fact that there is only 1 shop in my area that works on metric bikes and they dont rly want to touch anything <20+ yrs old and even if they did ofcourse there 4 weeks out before they will even look at the vn.. so basically i got 1 guy, 1 bike, and a big parking lot..
 

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Just like everything else. It’s not ridiculously hard if you have the tools and time and of course a place to work. I don’t have a jack and the local guy doesn’t care if it’s an HD bagger or a Chinese scooter he’ll work on it. In fact I think he prefers older bikes because of the lack of electronics incorporated. He did that job plus changed my oil, brake fluid, and flushed my radiator in 3 days.
 

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Removing the rear wheel is the worst part of the job, and the first step. If you're mechanically inclined, say go for it. If you get the wheel off, you're basically at the spines. If you can't get the wheel off, you haven't messed anything up!
 

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First and foremost DON'T ride it till you pull the rear wheel and check it. If you're lucky you will only need to replace the final drive but most times you also need the coupler.
 
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Got my new tires put on the 90 today. Checked my splines and they looked good, but not much grease left. Packed the coupler with some moly grease and put it back together.
53340
53341
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is there anyway that someone could post a pic of their splines with the photo panned out much further? I just wanna see exactly where any what the part looks like b4 its been removed feom the bike
 

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Is there anyway that someone could post a pic of their splines with the photo panned out much further? I just wanna see exactly where any what the part looks like b4 its been removed feom the bike
I don't have a pic handy but the spline are on the hub on the left rear wheel (as you're sitting on it) where you see the 4 small bolts where the shaft housing meets the final drive. That is where the splines are. You have to remove the rear wheel and unbolt that to see them. I'll take a pic and post it later.
 

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Has anyone here ever gone through a final drive rebuild? I remember seeing a "requires special tools to disassemble" remark, maybe in a repair manual, but I don't think the final drive shaft with splines (and almost certainly a complex cycloidal gear face on the inside) is even a part you can buy. Wondering if an eventual shortage of final drives and spline couplers will be the permanent death of more and more of these bikes, or if there's hope for rebuild kits. Maybe weld buid-up and re-cutting of splines from a stripped final drive, and a custom sintered coupling? Just wondering if anyone's looked down that rabbit hole yet or not.
 

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Has anyone here ever gone through a final drive rebuild? I remember seeing a "requires special tools to disassemble" remark, maybe in a repair manual, but I don't think the final drive shaft with splines (and almost certainly a complex cycloidal gear face on the inside) is even a part you can buy. Wondering if an eventual shortage of final drives and spline couplers will be the permanent death of more and more of these bikes, or if there's hope for rebuild kits. Maybe weld buid-up and re-cutting of splines from a stripped final drive, and a custom sintered coupling? Just wondering if anyone's looked down that rabbit hole yet or not.
Never heard of anyone trying. That would be the way to go, weld-up and cut splines.

Good thing kawi built a lot of these, but eventually parts will be scarce. No doubt, many give up when the stator dies.

I would guess snap ring pliers is the first special tool needed, then maybe a dial indicator.

I've never seen any gears being sold, just complete final drives.
 

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And you'll also need 27mm Socket for the rear axel nut and possibly a new cotter pin.
 
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