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Hello forums! I have a problem with the high beam on my Vulcan 750.

The low beam appears to be brighter than the high beam. I replaced the bulb. The old bulb looked fine. The fuse is okay too. When I switch to high beams the Headlight Failure indicator comes on and the Highbeam Indicator does not.

I pulled apart the switch and found 5 wires which is one more than every wiring diagram I've found. All the wire colors seemed correct except this renegade yellow wire. This yellow wire and the black/red wire are always connected (continuity check) even while the switch was removed, so I assume this is happening at the lighting reserve unit, but I haven't confirmed that. Having these wires connected seems to nullify the purpose of the Hi/Lo switch since connecting them is one of the two positions.

Thoughts are much appreciated.
 

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Hello forums! I have a problem with the high beam on my Vulcan 750.

The low beam appears to be brighter than the high beam. I replaced the bulb. The old bulb looked fine. The fuse is okay too. When I switch to high beams the Headlight Failure indicator comes on and the Highbeam Indicator does not.

I pulled apart the switch and found 5 wires which is one more than every wiring diagram I've found. All the wire colors seemed correct except this renegade yellow wire. This yellow wire and the black/red wire are always connected (continuity check) even while the switch was removed, so I assume this is happening at the lighting reserve unit, but I haven't confirmed that. Having these wires connected seems to nullify the purpose of the Hi/Lo switch since connecting them is one of the two positions.

Thoughts are much appreciated.
Yup.

Leave the yellow wire alone. Just my advise. The way it is designed would be extremely hard to explain and harder to follow. Oriental engineering.

2 possibilities. An electrical drain on the high beam circuit or a faulty RLD. A high percentage bet would be the RLD. More history would be useful. Was the HB working well and then all at once this?

The options are, I can explain how to bypass the RLD, or-
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=vulcan+reserve+lighting+device&_sop=15&_osacat=10064&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.X750+vulcan+reserve+lighting+device&_nkw=750+vulcan+reserve+lighting+device&_sacat=10064

edit- I can not in good faith recommend a permanent bypass of the RLD.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This was as the bike was purchased about a year or two ago. The fact that there's some difference between the two switch settings lets it pass inspection, but i've always been a little wary about driving at night.
 

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I however can... Get rid of it, if your High beam or low beam burns out, just switch to the other position, then replace your bulb as soon as possible.

I would suspect a faulty RLU.
Yup, I am in a yup mood for the rest of 2013.

To be honest, I have been looking to buy a RLD for the better part of a year. My headlights are so good, I do not know if I can bring myself to re-install one.

I have posted the bypass, if you would like I will try to find it or type it again.
 

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Yup. Are you sure you do not have questions about the headlight wiring? I am in a semi-sadistic mood and might appreciate someone else going though the tribulation I went though. I pulled my wiring harness and completely took it apart over this issue. It made no sense. I would add, when it comes to wiring problems, I am not a chimp. Today, I am running a special on dimmer switch questions?

The bypass and how I did mine.
Disconnect one battery terminal and remove the RH side coiver, cut all the wires between the RLD and its plug. I did not cut anything on my harness. I left the RLD unit itself mounted to protect the mounting bolt threads from the elements. Unplug/remove the RLD plug and the 2 or 3 inches of wires now attached to it. Connect the BL and the BL/O, I soldered mine. Tape them separately, keep the rest from touching one another or ground. Plug the the shortened RLD plug back in with a little dielectric grease. Re-install the bat cable and the side cover.

The headlight on my vn is so good now, I have only owned one motorcycle with better. The V max had a headlight. I will probably follow Slim's advise and just not say so.

HTH. Yup.
 

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I pulled apart the switch and found 5 wires which is one more than every wiring diagram I've found. All the wire colors seemed correct except this renegade yellow wire.
Yup.
This yellow wire and the black/red wire are always connected (continuity check) even while the switch was removed,
Yup.
so I assume this is happening at the lighting reserve unit, but I haven't confirmed that
You would not have had to assume if you had unplugged the RLD and used a jumper at this point. However, you would have been more confused.
Having these wires connected seems to nullify the purpose of the Hi/Lo switch since connecting them is one of the two positions.
Yup. It seems----I have found dimmer switch questions. I sincerely hope some otherwise competent mechanic has not attempted to fix your issue by changing the original wiring, like somebody did mine. Probably was a dealership mechanic involved with mine, judging from from the effort to keep it looking untouched. I am glad he gave up when he did.

edit-probably why my bike was cheap.
 

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wmsonta, Thanks for reposting the info on the RLD bypass. I was looking for that for confirmation as I've been planning on ripping mine out as well. I figured now is as good as a time as any as I have the engine sitting on my dining room table with the case ready to be split as soon as I get home from work, and the frame almost stripped bare and ready to be prepped for a powder coating... Going to be a busy winter :)

However, the route I want to take is to completely delete all of the extra wires from the harness. I may even go as far as to reroute the wires from the headlight switch to keep the current from running through there and have the switch toggle a relay to switch between High and low beam. It's simple in theory at least, I just have to take the time now to lay the wiring harness out on the floor and take a poke at it.
 

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NDR, Been there Done that, you actually only need one 5 pin relay. lo beams pulls from pin 87, and highs off of 87A, just use the switch to trigger the high the relay to allow the relay switch from normally closed pin 87 to normally open pin 87A.
 

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wmsonta, Thanks for reposting the info on the RLD bypass.
You are welcome, hope your outcome equals mine.

However, the route I want to take is to completely delete all of the extra wires from the harness.
OHhhh, groan. My advise is don't and say you did. Take away all the wires and rewire or none. Yup, this wiring is seriously counter intuitive. The end result of an Ah Ha moment is worse confusion. For a fact, a guy who could make a living doing the wiring on '70's road tractors will scratch his head until his arm falls off. Finding what actually goes on inside the RLD/RLU is probably why the NSA is wiretapping the known world.

HTH, yup.
 

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NDR, Been there Done that, you actually only need one 5 pin relay. lo beams pulls from pin 87, and highs off of 87A, just use the switch to trigger the high the relay to allow the relay switch from normally closed pin 87 to normally open pin 87A.
Yup, pretty much what I was thinking of doing. Figured that would be the easiest way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the replies. I'm waiting for a non-snowy/freezing day to make a run at the RLU. I'm hoping there's a way to check if it's bad without having to cut any wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The weather warmed up enough to give bypassing the RLU (RLD) a look see. The results are as follows. Nothing else in the RLU is connected.

When I jumped Blue to Red/Black (high beams) the high beam came on, which is a good sign.

When I jumped Blue to Blue/Yellow however, the high beams wouldn't work in the 'Hi' position.

When I jumped Blue to Blue/Orange the high and low both worked but in reverse. This agrees with the wiring diagram.

I'll have to try Blue to Blue/Yellow one more time to confirm the only the low beam is on during either position of the dimmer switch. Otherwise I'll just jump it to Blue/Orange and run them in reverse. Or try replacing the switch. It did look a little damaged when I yanked it.
 

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if you go blue/orange and it works in reverse then switch the hi and low beam wires at the headlight connector and you will have it running low on low and high on high problem solved

good luck with it
 
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