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Discussion Starter #1
I got bit by my first died on the freeway cause the battery was dead experience this morning and it opened my eyes that I apparently don't understand motorcycle battery maintenance very well. I'm from the automotive world where you get enough charge in the battery to start the car and the charging system will finish off charging the battery. That doesn't seem to be the case with the VN 750. I have a standard wet cell purchased from the local auto parts, will go gel cell next time. I put the battery on only partially charged thinking it would charge up, next thing I know I'm in stop and go traffic and it dies on me, not enough juice left to roll the starter.

So, until I get the gel cell, how do I maintain and take proper care of the battery to keep this from happening again? Can I use a 2 amp slow charger for automotive? Do I need to charge it up on a regular basis. What is the charging rate for the 750 does it just maintain or will it charge? At what RPM does it start charging?
 

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Love My Baby
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First, take the battery out and check the fluid in all the cells. Fill it just below the high mark with DISTILLED water. Tap water can ruin a battery. Next, you can use your 2 amp slow charger for now, but a battery tender (1.25 amp) would be better for when you buy your MAINTENANCE FREE GLASS MAT BATTERY. You shouldn't have to charge your current battery frequently, but you must check the fluid levels monthly. This means taking the battery out of the battery box because you can't adequately see the fluid level while the battery is mounted in the box. Better off buying that MF battery now.

Under most circumstances, the 750 will adequately maintain your battery's charge, but won't be able to charge up a significantly depleted battery. My charging system works best at about 3000 RPMs but starts charging even when idling.

Wet cells can be depleted because they run low on distilled water as they get warm and the fluid vents through the vent tube. When you charge a wet cell, they loose some fluid through the vent tube as well. This doesn't happen with a sealed maintenance free glass mat battery.
 

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I got bit by my first died on the freeway
If your battery died on the highway, then can I assume your bike was running 4000+ RPMs? If so, then your charging system should have kept up with the discharge (unless you have lots of extras running like GPS, grip heaters, etc.). If this is the case, then you might be faced with a battery that won't hold a proper charge (i.e., shorted cell) or a charging system that isn't generating working properly (i.e, shorted stator or bad Regulator Rectifier). If the battery is shorted, then you best replace it (fast) or risk damage to the other more expensive charging system components.

There are tests for all situations described above (all documented on this forum) to determine the exact cause. However, if the battery is a wet cell type, several years old, exposed to long periods of bike idle (i.e., winter storage) or has been complete discharge several times, then it probably needs to be replaced anyway. Note that the best battery replacement option is a AGM type for which there are LOTS of recommendation threads on this forum (search for AGM battery). Testing of the other components is also well documented on this forum.

By the way, the AGM battery solves some warm starting issues that the VN750 is prone to, does not self discharge as fast as wet cells, does not need any special maintenace, etc., etc., etc., so it is money well spent.
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
I got bit by my first died on the freeway cause the battery was dead experience this morning and it opened my eyes that I apparently don't understand motorcycle battery maintenance very well. I'm from the automotive world where you get enough charge in the battery to start the car and the charging system will finish off charging the battery. That doesn't seem to be the case with the VN 750. I have a standard wet cell purchased from the local auto parts, will go gel cell next time. I put the battery on only partially charged thinking it would charge up, next thing I know I'm in stop and go traffic and it dies on me, not enough juice left to roll the starter.

So, until I get the gel cell, how do I maintain and take proper care of the battery to keep this from happening again? Can I use a 2 amp slow charger for automotive? Do I need to charge it up on a regular basis. What is the charging rate for the 750 does it just maintain or will it charge? At what RPM does it start charging?

I would bite the bullet now and save yourself alot of forecomming problems associated with a flooded wet cell battery and get an MF AGM battery.

Below is a link for a great battery, the ad says 190 cca but the new ones are 210 cca.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Deka-ETX15L-Powersports-AGM-Battery-100-NEW_W0QQitemZ270282472155QQcmdZViewItemQQptZOther_Vehicle_Parts?hash=item3eee173adb&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116


http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0278.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks guys, I don't have any extra power drains on the bike, it's all stock. I went problem free on a new wet cell for about 2 months, but then I changed my engine and had some carb problems and ended up fully discharging the battery cranking it to start. I think it messed up a cell because it would never fully charge after that. Not really thinking about it I figured it would be OK as long as it started the bike and charge up over time. Lesson learned, I'll get an AGM battery on order and a proper charger next check.

Any suggestions on an inexpensive but quality battery tender and where to get one?
 

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Most bike shops, some walmarts sell a battery tender usually for around $20. It will come with a set of leads that you can leave screwed to your battery terminals and a quick connect fitting on the other end that you can simply plug in to your tender when you park your bike, so you don't have to take the seat off and such. Plus the connection is standard type so if you needed to, you can pick up a cigar lighter pigtail that will plug straight into the leads and you can power a compressor or cell phone charger etc from it if needed. I picked up the pigtail at walmart in the boating section of sporting goods. Keep it in my saddlebag with the compressor.
Make sure you test your charging voltage so you know your stator and r/r are doing their jobs before you strap on a new battery! don't want to ruin a good AGM!
 

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The Professor
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Thanks guys, I don't have any extra power drains on the bike, it's all stock. I went problem free on a new wet cell for about 2 months, but then I changed my engine and had some carb problems and ended up fully discharging the battery cranking it to start. I think it messed up a cell because it would never fully charge after that. Not really thinking about it I figured it would be OK as long as it started the bike and charge up over time. Lesson learned, I'll get an AGM battery on order and a proper charger next check.

Any suggestions on an inexpensive but quality battery tender and where to get one?
If you have a bad or weak cell you run the risk of frying the stator and or R/R.

If you get the Agm battery you won't need a tender. :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think the cost of buying used is catching up with me. I have no charging when the bike is running. I just tested my stator and R/R and both are fried. They don't look burnt but the values between the yellow leads are way to low and all three leads ground to the case. The R/R is the same way values between B, M & G are not to spec. I expect they were bad when I got the bike and running with the low battery made it evident. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket place to get replacements other than Ron Ayers?
 

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Simple Solutions
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lance will chime in with a place to get your stator rewound though it will take a couple weeks the rr ive seen for as low as 40 on ebay ... again lance should know where to get the best one... the stator is a chore but its not to bad after a couple times, i can drop the motor in a couple hours ... tough luck but i bet we can get u up to par for about 250.00
 

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Simple Solutions
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i had one of those in mine and i also got one from dennis kirk.... for about the same price (stator) however it was wound in china and they use cheap wire... so its like buying an alternator from schucks only its an engine pull to get it out... i recomend the rewinding on ebay lance has a link in one of these threads im sure the ones u are looking at will work and they are inexpenceive... however i wish i would have gone a diffrent route now...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea, I'm kinda thinking the same thing myself. I've got my R/R relocated, and the goat belly gone, just a little to late but good going forward. I found the e-bay link in the verses for the rewinder but it doesn't appear to be valid on e-bay anymore. I found a mention for a Ricks Motorsport stator and a comment that it was a good part. But it's a little pricier though not as bad as OEM. My hope is to get good parts and a good AGM battery and I won't have to worry about it again. I'm definately not impressed with anything coming out of China and I just don't think I would trust it with all the problems I've had on this bike so far.

Right now I'm just frustrated cause I'm out of money, don't have a working bike, summer's getting over and I can't ride.

If anyone knows of a good rewinder I'd like to know. I've got two bad stators so I don't have to pull the engine for the core. Alternatively, any comments on Ricks or anyone else that offers good aftermarket stators and R/R's would be appreciated.
 

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If anyone knows of a good rewinder I'd like to know. I've got two bad stators so I don't have to pull the engine for the core. Alternatively, any comments on Ricks or anyone else that offers good aftermarket stators and R/R's would be appreciated.
Have you checked with any independent mc repair shops in your area to see who they might recommend? How about a starter/alternator shop?
 

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The Professor
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The Electrosport and Rm Stator are made in china, Rick's Electrics uses Taiwan cores but winds them in the US, but his are better than the others. TPE will wind your core with high grade magnet wire and use high temp "mil spec" leads with a two year warranty for $65.00.

TPE ask for Tim

http://www.tpe-usa.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
TPE has a 2 year warranty and it's cheaper than Rick's what a deal. I'm going with TPE. Thanks for the link, I did a quick search on e-bay and didn't find anything thought the guy had quit the business. Does anyone have recommendations on a replacement R/R?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I talked with Tim and the warranty is only 1 year. Still a good deal. He says they pay $20 for stator cores if anyone has a bad one laying around. I have an bad extra so I'm going to pull the one in the bike and ship them both, cut my losses by $20.

Here's a strange question, with my charging system toast, on a fully charged battery, could that mess with my ignition/coil system and cause the coils to not spark correctly? Maybe causing a weak spark that wouldn't ignite the fuel mixture and drown the plugs?
 

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The Professor
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I talked with Tim and the warranty is only 1 year. Still a good deal. He says they pay $20 for stator cores if anyone has a bad one laying around. I have an bad extra so I'm going to pull the one in the bike and ship them both, cut my losses by $20.

Here's a strange question, with my charging system toast, on a fully charged battery, could that mess with my ignition/coil system and cause the coils to not spark correctly? Maybe causing a weak spark that wouldn't ignite the fuel mixture and drown the plugs?
Just tell him his Ebay ad says a two year warranty and he will honor it, another plus is he will wind them for max output.

The charging system should not effect the ignition with a fully charged battery, it should be good for about 30 miles with an AGM.
 

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Ohh Mannn ,
I had the same thing happen to me one night last week,
I was talking to a person in front of a co-op and the thing just died all of a sudden and I was wondering what was going on??
I guess the same thing goes for mine too, take the thing out and fill the cells, and then charge it and then it hopefully will be ok,
Im getting a maintenece free battery anyway,
So ill keep it on a trickle charger and then I think ill be ok,
 
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