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This R/R is...

  • Still good. Look elsewhere besides the stator & R/R

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Probably shot. A new one will fix it

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Inconclusive, you need to check the .....?

    Votes: 0 0.0%

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1 - 20 of 28 Posts

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Alpha Geek
Joined
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Stranded away from home, tools, parts and friendly shops. The owner of my crash pad is leaving state in 2 days so I need to clear out or push my bike 600 miles haha. :)

Stator windings all read 0.50 (within range of 0.34 to 0.52). Haven't checked running because battery is still on a charger.

R/R readings are as follows. I'm confused about some of them because the test procedure says to be sure to use the 100 (200) range and they read infinite (good) at that range, but not at higher ranges.

A1-A3 between each other, 1 (infinite)

B-M 30.7 @ 200k, 1 at 2M range, 1 at 200 range (Is this infinite or 30.7k ohms? Is this ok?)
B-G 20.4 @ 200k, 1 at 200 range (inf or ok?)
B-A123 15.4 @ 200k, 1 at 200 range (inf or ok?)

M-B 15.1k, 1 at 200 range (OK)
M-G 20.5, 1 at 200 range (OK)
M-A123 1 at all ranges (OK?)

G-B 1 at all ranges (Should be < 2 k ?)
G-M 1 at all ranges (should be < 5 k ?)
G-A123 1 at all ranges (Should be .2 - .6 k?)

A123-B 15.3 at 200k for all 3 (15k and should be 200-600 ohms?)
A123-M 1 for all 3 (OK)
A123-G 1 for all 3 (OK)

So.... it looks like the R/R is shot again? Can I get a confirmation on this before I throw money at it? Thanks!
 

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Sparky!!!
Joined
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8,697 Posts
A1-A-3 Good
B-M Infinite (M-B anywhere from 100,000 Ohms to infinite is good)
B-G should read infinite
M-A123 Good

G-B Bad
G-M Bad
G-A123 Bad

A123-B Bad
A123- G Good
A123 - M Good

Yes your R/R is bad again. get a MOFSET R/R
 

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Alpha Geek
Joined
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the confirmation.

Maybe my brain is just fried from stress and working in this heat, but I'm still wondering about some of the readings that are infinite at the specified setting (100/200) but give for example 30.7 at 200k setting. Since the procedure says be sure to set to 100, does that mean it only needs to read 1.00 at that 100 ohm range? Or does it need to have have no continuity or at least extremely high (100,000) resistance?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
Joined
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16,197 Posts
Just take a deep breath and focus .
 

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Alpha Geek
Joined
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Another new R/R looks like it's testing bad. Again, do the values that should be infinite only NEED to read infinite at the specified range or just very high? How the heck can 2 new parts both be bad in largely the same way? This one hasn't even been plugged in yet.

(ok) A1-A3 between each other, 1 (infinite)

(ok) B-M inf
(?) B-G inf at 100 ohm range as specified but 31.4 k at 200k range?
(?) B-A123, also inf at 100 ohm range as specified, but range 15.5k to 16k at 200k range?

(ok) M-B inf
(ok) M-G 20.0 k
(ok) M-A123 inf on all

(bad?) G-B inf all ranges, should be 0.4 to 2 k?
(bad?) G-M inf all ranges, should be 1-5 k?
(ok) G-A123 inf on all

(bad?) A123-B inf on all, should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)
(ok) A123-M inf on all
(?) A123-G inf at 100 ohm specified range, Reads 15.6k, 15.3 k, 15.1 k on 200k?
 

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Super Moderator
Joined
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2,570 Posts
its entirely possible that more modern multimeters (from what makaw provides the numbers for resistance measurements) cannot properly forward bias the diodes on the resistance settings.. the diode check settings will do so (provides a high bias voltage, as well as allowing more current flow than the resistance ranges allows).

therefore, according to the test results you posted using the diode test function, then I would say your new RR is ok.

wait, did a post just go away??? I could have sworn that hex posted a test of the RR that showed the diodes where ok.... (using a different test method)
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
Joined
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111 Posts
before I would do anything, I would check the stator output on all 3 wires, I'm just saying.....
 

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Alpha Geek
Joined
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Idk about that other post. I put the same link on the facebook group. Diode check suggests both the newest and 2nd newest R/R (my first failed test results) are both ok.

Stator leads are not grounded (> 2 M Ohms).
Stator leads give 0.5, 0.5, and 0.4 Ohms between pairs.
I haven't had a second pair of hands to help me check stator output since Canada when I got a NEW stator installed. New stator leads only give around 11 V at idle and 13.5 V, 13.5 V, 14.5 V between pairs as close as I can hold it to 4000 RPM. Leads are unplugged from anything else, no load. This is the correct way to measure them rather than checking to ground since there wouldn't be a complete circuit, right?

Please tell me there's some bizarre reason for this meter to not read that correctly. I have the meter set to 200 VAC for sure but it's giving what I'd expect for DCV at that RPM...

Why would all 3 legs be doing the same thing?
 

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Super Moderator
Joined
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2,570 Posts
stator test is AC volts.. if your reading that low (unloaded) then its probably bad, assuming that the meter is working/set correctlly.

I would not expect to see any DC voltage on the stator legs
 

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Alpha Geek
Joined
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
It's acting like it did in Canada, but after Canada, I made it home 800 miles with not a single hiccup. Then I rode around home for a few days with no problems. Then I made it down to Memphis, another 600 miles, again with no problems. Now it's doing the exact same thing it did in Toronto, just maybe a little worse. And this is on a new stator. I'd almost bet it would be fine on the open highway, but it dies when near highly populated areas...
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
Joined
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16,197 Posts
Maybe she don't like the city.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
Joined
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16,197 Posts
Me either .
 

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Sparky!!!
Joined
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8,697 Posts
its entirely possible that more modern multimeters (from what makaw provides the numbers for resistance measurements) cannot properly forward bias the diodes on the resistance settings.. the diode check settings will do so (provides a high bias voltage, as well as allowing more current flow than the resistance ranges allows).

therefore, according to the test results you posted using the diode test function, then I would say your new RR is ok.

wait, did a post just go away??? I could have sworn that hex posted a test of the RR that showed the diodes where ok.... (using a different test method)
my test proceedures that Hex is quoteing from were not made from the Clymer or factory service manuals, but from me testing about 50 or so good R/Rs off the shelf with a FLuke Multi Meter. But since the rest of ya want to but in, then I am out...Wke me up when September Ends
 

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Banned
Joined
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10,354 Posts
Ya know guys...Slim IS the MAN to listen to about this sheit....if ya dont...well...
 

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Sparky!!!
Joined
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8,697 Posts
Ya know guys...Slim IS the MAN to listen to about this sheit....if ya dont...well...
out of all the people I helped fix thier charging systems, only one bike had me stumped for a while... every thing kept testing out good, well every thing but the R/R... the guy kept giving me numbers to plug in, but he didn't do my tests in order which ****s up all the rest of my mojo... after several months I finally had him start over from scratch giving me the Stator tests in order as I was in video chat with him, after I had him do step one, we moved onto step 2 and so on and so forth, finally at the end of the R/R tests, I realized what had happened, he had been skipping all the double tests like B-m and M-B... which passed one way, but failed the other because of the diodes. So when you use my Chart, and ask for help, I am giving you information based on an algorithm I invented and only I have the key for it. Test have to be done in specific order, and all the tests have to be done on a fully chargered battery with all grounds cleaned and tightened
 

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Banned
Joined
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10,354 Posts
...see ?...this guy knows his sheit.....I dont know fookall about electrics....I admit it and dont bullsheit my way thru (like some have been lately)....I ask KC2 about lighting, and Slim about the ignition aspects....these guys are yer "go to" people when it comes to electrics....Merc also can help with techie stuff....
 

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Alpha Geek
Joined
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Slim, I'm sure you know what you're talking about and I really appreciate the help. I was just checking the diodes directly as a fast check and wondering if the tests have to pass only at 100 ohm range since that's what's specified.

So when you say it needs a freshly charged battery, are you implying these tests have to be done with the plug connected? I had assumed it was OK to bench test or unplug the connector to access the pins. Should I recheck? Thanks
 

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Alpha Geek
Joined
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I just read in another forum to check voltage on the stator leads to GROUND in order to check for > 30 VAC, not each other. Is that correct? Is that why I'm reading less, because it's the difference between the other wires averaged?
 
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