[CDUB]

Recently my R/R burnt out. One of the connectors on the yellow wires from the stator turned black and began to melt the plastic connector. The white wire did melt the connector and the heat caused the connector on the r/r (for the white wire) to actually break off. I noticed at the time that I discovered the bad R/R that the headlight stopped working. The headlight tested good. I removed it and connected it to the battery and it did light up. At this time I was only getting around 10 volts to the battery, so I knew the r/r was bad, but I wasn't sure why the headlight stopped working. I just figured it wasn't getting enough voltage.

I have now rewired and installed a used working R/R. I charged the battery and put it back in and started the bike. I'm now getting about 12.6 volts at idle and about 13.3 volts around 3000 - 4000 rpms. The headlight is still not coming on???? I've checked the headlight fuse and it is good. All of the turn signals and brake lights are all working. All of the gauge lights are working.

Help, I want to take it for a test drive but can't since the headlight has stopped working!

 

[luigit]

check the JB. there is a relay in there that is suppossed to work the headlight.

 

[CDUB]

Just found another post that said to check the JB and move the BLUE wire to the empty slot. Did that and now headlight comes on with the key. So does that mean my relay is bad?

How do I identify the headlight relay? Is there anything else I can do to test it?

 

[slimvulcanrider]

you just did the best test.. the relay inside the JB is messed up... two solutions are available.. option one (and easiest) get a used JB off of eBay, or option two rebuild your current JB... option two is not for the week of heart, it requires the jb to be separated with allergically care, the old relay un-soldered, 4 wires soldered onto the circuit board, and a hole drilled into the jb housing to allow the wires to protrude for an automotive relay. search for Slim's JB Mod

 

[Chavisimo]

Or you can just leave it like that. I've had mine like this for over a year without a single issue. Just make sure you have a good AGM battery and you're good to go.

 

[pappa]

..and about 13.3 volts around 3000 - 4000 rpms.

That is suspiciously low. All three legs of the stator may not be healthy. Check the stator output AC voltages between each two legs (three measurements) with the stator disconnected. The voltages should be about the same.

If the AC voltages look good, you can measure each leg DC voltage against ground at the R/R, with the stator connected. The readings may look weird, but should again be about the same.

 

[baldy]

Not necessarily. If the battery is good, when it gets a full charge the output will be lower where the r/r shorts the excess to ground. I was confused about this as well but after testing both of my 750's with the exact same results, after they get a full charge 100% battery the volts drop so not to over charge the battery.

 

[w4nmh]

Stator Testing

Just recovered from this one.

Test each Stator to Ground with the bike off.
Using the Resistance or Ohm Meter there should be no coil to ground reading.

Rich