Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Help please!!!!

I just installed a wolo air horn using a relay. I started my bike all good. My volt meter ready normal then I took bike for a ride I got two streets over and bike turned off and now has no power. Turn key and nothing.

Help please!!!!
 

·
romeobravo172
Joined
·
842 Posts
ck main 30amp fuse
 

·
..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
·
4,508 Posts

·
..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
·
4,508 Posts
Yup it's blown. I just checked it. My question is why would it blow it ???

Any ideas
A fuse is a Electrical Protection Device. Over stress the electronics w/ current (I= E/R) , the fuse will do its job and blow. That is a good thing !
The 30 Amp is the MAIN FUSE.
Your air horn (compressor) is over-loading the bikes electrical capabilities.

hope this helps

WilliamTech
 

·
romeobravo172
Joined
·
842 Posts
Could have mis-wired the relay? Dead short!
 

·
..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
·
4,508 Posts

·
..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
·
4,508 Posts
pin 30 on relay should be direct to battery, pin 87 should be to accessory (horn), pin 85 horn switch, pin 86 ground.
True, I follow that.

wired Pins on the Relay !

WilliamTech :smiley_th
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
pin 30 on relay should be direct to battery, pin 87 should be to accessory (horn), pin 85 horn switch, pin 86 ground.
:doh:I was doing the STUPID SIMPLE method by buying the wiring kit that is sold for the wolo air horn. I took the relay and plugged the wire kit to it. (It can only fit one way right???). The I took the the red fuse line from it and connected to the battery. Then I took the second wire and fed it through the bike and connect to the positive on the wolo. I then took the grey wire (which comes with the kit) follow it through and connected it to the OEM horn wire. I took the second OEM horn wire and connect it to a ground. And last but not least I took the black wire with the kit and connect it to the negative on the wolo to a ground. I undid the two wires from the second OEM horn and taped off the ends so no contact could be made.

One thing I did noticed was when I went to install the fuse wire to the battery the air horn went of (scaring the crap out of me lmao) so I went to the two wires coming from the OEM horn and reverse the wire connections and then made the battery connection with no problem.

Should I remove the wire kit and to the connections straight to the relay but making my own wire crimping connections and NOT using the wire kit that I bought???

Once I did noticed that the 30 AMP main fuse was blown, I replaced it and it too blew. I then removed the two wires connection the air horn and trying replacing the fuse it too then blew. I then removed the two wires connected to the OEM horn wires and try to replace fuse and it too blew. Finally, I removed the red wire from the battery and replaced the fuse and it was all good. Bike lights came on and turn the bike on with no issues.

Any suggestions I am truly grateful for them. H-E-L-P-!-!-!

Thanks :doh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
does the new horn work now?
It does now. Today, I went through everything very detailed. And it works. Then I took the bike for a spin and noticed another thing though. I have my kuryakyn volt meter attached. The two wires run into the headlight bucket with the black wire attached to the screw inside for ground and the red wire spliced into the side lights. Volt meter has been working fine getting only one green light. Then as I took my ride tonight and applied the brakes the 2 red and 2 amber lights started to blink and drop to 3 lights (2 red & 1 !amber). When I released the brake the lights the lights return to normal. I decide to undo the wires and ran them to the back to the battery. The ground attached to the negative side of the battery. And the red wire tapped into the fuse box. Then got ready to go for a spin and now the head light doesn't come on but when I use the kill switch button to turn bike off the headlight ones on.

I undid the wires for the kuryakyn and left it disconnected. And now the headlight works normal. Ike starts great and runs great but NO VOLT METER attached.

At least air horn works!!!

Overall I am sooooooo lost and confused...
:doh:
 

·
Prowling Tiger
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Why not use the spares wire in the head light bucket instead of making this more difficult by splicing into other wires? Seems to be the simplest solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Why not use the spares wire in the head light bucket instead of making this more difficult by splicing into other wires? Seems to be the simplest solution.
I would love too. However, if I am not mistaken, I think I have read in the forum that it's not a good idea because you don't get a true volt reading. Most post I have read state to run them to the battery. Some have suggested to even connect both wires to the battery but some concerns are that the meter would be on the whole time. Since it's an LED light it won't consume too much from the battery. It would be a long time before the battery would even get affected.

Currently I have the volt meter disconnected and and the everything is working OK, I just don't know how else to make this connection and have the volt meter work correctly all the time. BTW, it's a brand new battery as well with a full charge.
 

·
..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
·
4,508 Posts
Kuryakyn volt meter :
I would love too. However, if I am not mistaken, I think I have read in the forum that it's not a good idea because you don't get a true volt reading. Most post I have read state to run them to the battery. Some have suggested to even connect both wires to the battery but some concerns are that the meter would be on the whole time. Since it's an LED light it won't consume too much from the battery. It would be a long time before the battery would even get affected.

Currently I have the volt meter disconnected and and the everything is working OK, I just don't know how else to make this connection and have the volt meter work correctly all the time. BTW, it's a brand new battery as well with a full charge.
but some concerns are that the meter would be on the whole time.

You are right. Ensure it is switched, preferably ignition switched.

However, if I am not mistaken, I think I have read in the forum that it's not a good idea because you don't get a true volt reading.

this would most likely not provide an accurate reading, maybe/up to 0.5 volt off, but would serve your purpose. My past comment would be a more professional and/or accurate reading method.
I believe the extra set of wires in headlight bucket ARE switched, and serve your needs.

hope this helps

WilliamTech :smiley_th
 

·
Prowling Tiger
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Anytime you connect after the battery, the voltage reading will be inaccurate. Unless there is a voltage regulator in there somewhere. So, I would not worry about a small % of deviation from the battery.

You could install a switch or some sort of switching relay in between meter and headlight/battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,353 Posts
The accessory leads in the headlight bucket are ALWAYS ON. you can feed the voltmeter with it, but you still should have a relay to disconnect it when the key is in the off position. You can use the 12V from the running lights to control a relay. I would fuse both leads inline as added protection.

If you are dropping that much voltage from the battery to the Voltmeter leads through the harness....then your harness is not in great shape.

I have a voltage meter set directly to the running lights. The voltage drop on the wiring is minimal. and my 06 harness is in good shape.
The drop in voltage is less than .01V
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top