Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i posted yesterday about gas coming out of my air intake. so everyone said carb flot (which might still be a problem) but i decide to change the oil and filter and i take the filter off and tada!!!! gas/oil mixtur that would do great if my baby was a weedeater but im thinking it's a bad thing for my bike. so i drain the oil/gas from the bike and now i dont know what i should do. hoping my baby didnt just become a big paperweight . any help, thought, or similar storys would be great . :doh::(:confused:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
If she's been flooding out - or at least dumping fuel into the cylinder head that's not getting burned off - you'll get lots of gasoline in the oil like that. I've been rebuilding a different bike and had the same - ended up dumping the oil in the recycle container 'cause the oil was gonna float over top of the gas, no matter what I did (that is, I could see how the gas was going to evaporate and leave me with my original oil). I'm still voting on a stuck float, but as you're problem-solving, get some cheap oil to work through the process. Once you've got it all figured out, go get yourself whatever brand/grade you normally run and drain/refill.
 

·
Vintage bike addict
Joined
·
859 Posts
Float is stuck in at least one of the carbs. Change the oil fix the float.
 

·
Adventuregeek
Joined
·
162 Posts
Ditto to all that. My rear carb float stuck wide open recently and I had gas in the oil. It leaks past the piston rings when so much is washing around in the cylinder.

It's nothing serious, your baby will run again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
thanx guys load off my mind will update when problem is fixed. thanx again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I have the same issue with gas in the oil. I just finish draining the oil. I do not how to work on the stuck floats but will continue reading until I figure it out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,778 Posts
If you're lucky, tapping on it with a screwdriver handle might unstick it. Otherwise, you're probably looking at a carb clean/rebuild. Sea Foam might help too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,027 Posts
It's not a big deal, even though it may require removing the carbs to fix. Either a float is sticking, or a needle valve is not sealing. When I first bought my '93, the rear carb was flooding out. Though it was still under warranty, I didn't take it to the dealer, because I hate dealers, and don't trust them period. I pulled the carbs, and sure enough, there was a small piece (like flashing) from the manufacturing process sticking out on the rear float. I sanded it down, put it back, checked the float levels in both carbs, put the carbs back, and proceeded to rack up over 80,000 trouble free miles on it (except for the EIGHT times I had to do the rear spline lube). IMO, this is ridiculous, but it didn't keep me from buying a brand new '02 Vulcan 750. Jerry.
 

·
MANIC MECHANIC
Joined
·
943 Posts
i gave up and took mine off what i found ticked me off. 2007 when i painted the bike i took it to a local radiator shop had the inside of the tank acid etched and coated. upon taking apart the carbs this time after it flooded out i found what looked like slimy paint. took apart the petcock full of slimy paint. put my camera boroscope in the tank found my tank coating peeling and a brown paper towel in the tank which i removed with a hooked coathanger. so now i have to figure out how to remove the coating without screwing up the paint on my newly dented tank (I store it at work inside amazingly enough there are 8 people who work there none of them know what happened). i dont want to do another tank this is tank number three since i had the bike the other two went due to rusting from the inside. sorry to have rambled but it was a long afternoon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,778 Posts
Good quality paint remover will remove tank lining material. Use at least a quart, swirl it around periodically and allow it to sit for several hours. Often, the coating is thicker in some places than it is in others. So these areas will need extra time in contact with the paint remover. Don't get it on the outside of the tank, and remove the petcock and sending unit before treating the tank. If it turns out that you missed some spots, might want to keep a little of the product in reserve. Flat tip screwdriver helps scrape off the stubborn spots too.

Mine was rusting under the "professionally" applied (aka stealership) Kreem job the PO had done.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top