Blue wire bypass done. Voltage at headlight plug gives me .11 volts regardless of high beam selector position, and the dash light doesn't come on for high beam.
Will do. Should be a constant 12v out of the blue wire with the key on, right?Thinking about this, bypassing the JB by jumping the blue wire to the battery won't do you any good if you're currently getting 12v out of the JB on pin 17 (the new location of the blue wire after the blue wire mod), which you should be if the tail fuse is good like you claimed. You'd be bypassing good circuitry, and the problem downstream would still prevent the headlight from working.
short story: check for voltage there before rewiring.
Main and tail fuses are good. I have a 30a (for now, til I pick up a 10a) inline fuse for the new toggle switch. Hole drilled on the front-facing edge of the right side cover. Works like a charm lol.double-check your main and tail fuses. should fix your problem without rewiring.
if you don't put a fuse inline, a short can kill your battery or start a fire. You said you blew a fuse earlier ... whatever blew that fuse would have done more damage without the fuse.
fuses have convenient little metal nubs exposed on the top so you can check voltages without removing the fuse. if the ignition is on you should have voltage at all sides of all fuses. Just double checked and the tail fuse is the only thing that could be killing the head light if your blue wire is good and the rest of your electrical is working (ignoring your taillight issue for a moment). Its possible you burned a trace in the JB circuit board when your tail fuse blew, but that seems unlikely.