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Crowley
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Discussion Starter #1
Blue wire bypass done. Voltage at headlight plug gives me .11 volts regardless of high beam selector position, and the dash light doesn't come on for high beam.
 

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At some point, has the headlight worked since doing the bypass?
 

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Thinking about this, bypassing the JB by jumping the blue wire to the battery won't do you any good if you're currently getting 12v out of the JB on pin 17 (the new location of the blue wire after the blue wire mod), which you should be if the tail fuse is good like you claimed. You'd be bypassing good circuitry, and the problem downstream would still prevent the headlight from working.

short story: check for voltage there before rewiring.
 

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Crowley
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Discussion Starter #7
Thinking about this, bypassing the JB by jumping the blue wire to the battery won't do you any good if you're currently getting 12v out of the JB on pin 17 (the new location of the blue wire after the blue wire mod), which you should be if the tail fuse is good like you claimed. You'd be bypassing good circuitry, and the problem downstream would still prevent the headlight from working.

short story: check for voltage there before rewiring.
Will do. Should be a constant 12v out of the blue wire with the key on, right?
 

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Will do. Should be a constant 12v out of the blue wire with the key on, right?
If your blue wire is in the top back position of the JB, yes.
 

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Crowley
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Discussion Starter #9
No voltage to blue wire from jb. Pulled blue wire from plug and touched to positive terminal, light lit up. Working on a switch right now. What can happen if I don't put a fuse inline?
 

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double-check your main and tail fuses. should fix your problem without rewiring.
if you don't put a fuse inline, a short can kill your battery or start a fire. You said you blew a fuse earlier ... whatever blew that fuse would have done more damage without the fuse.
 

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Crowley
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Discussion Starter #11
double-check your main and tail fuses. should fix your problem without rewiring.
if you don't put a fuse inline, a short can kill your battery or start a fire. You said you blew a fuse earlier ... whatever blew that fuse would have done more damage without the fuse.
Main and tail fuses are good. I have a 30a (for now, til I pick up a 10a) inline fuse for the new toggle switch. Hole drilled on the front-facing edge of the right side cover. Works like a charm lol.
 

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fuses have convenient little metal nubs exposed on the top so you can check voltages without removing the fuse. if the ignition is on you should have voltage at all sides of all fuses. Just double checked and the tail fuse is the only thing that could be killing the head light if your blue wire is good and the rest of your electrical is working (ignoring your taillight issue for a moment). Its possible you burned a trace in the JB circuit board when your tail fuse blew, but that seems unlikely.
 

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Main and tail fuses are good. I have a 30a (for now, til I pick up a 10a) inline fuse for the new toggle switch. Hole drilled on the front-facing edge of the right side cover. Works like a charm lol.
well, whatever works!
 

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Crowley
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Discussion Starter #14
fuses have convenient little metal nubs exposed on the top so you can check voltages without removing the fuse. if the ignition is on you should have voltage at all sides of all fuses. Just double checked and the tail fuse is the only thing that could be killing the head light if your blue wire is good and the rest of your electrical is working (ignoring your taillight issue for a moment). Its possible you burned a trace in the JB circuit board when your tail fuse blew, but that seems unlikely.

So, even with the blue wire removed, I can still check fuel voltage. I'll do that tonight after work.

All I have left is to connect the headlight, drill and tap holes for rear signals, Mount and wire rear signals, strip and paint side covers, oil and install air filters, get a crankcase vent filter of some sort, get elbows for fuel lines to connect to petcock, fill with gas, and i'm good!
 
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