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Discussion Starter #1
A minor discovery? Did ya know ....

If you set the rocker switch for the Hi/Low beam, halfway between Hi and Low, you get both hi/low lights burning at the same time.

The switch has a notch to hold it, and the high beam indicator dims by about half.

Next time I'm dodging crap in the night, I'm trying this. Looked good on the garage wall.

Maybe I'll test it in the daytime and have a spare fuse handy. Charging system seemed to be handling it at idle.

I've done this on some cars. Some handle it, others just shut off the lights.
 

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Interesting...KC was just talking about similar in emails not long ago...we were wonderin if it could be rigged....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't see why you couldn't toggle switch a hot lead to one side or the other. Then when you switch it off, the hi/lo switch would still work.

I said there's a notch in the middle of the switch, but it's more of just a sweet spot, must be a ball in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Headlight life will suffer w/both elements on for very long.
I'm about to put that to the test.

I never blew any car headlamps that way.
 

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Headlight life will suffer w/both elements on for very long.
You talk the talk, but can you walk the walk ?....explain please so that your statement isnt just another empty and useless recommendation that a few have been making lately....surprised too, you normally DO back up your statements with a logical explaination...

WHY exactly will they suffer ?.....besides for the fact that they both are burning....does this damage the filament somehow ? Or is it because they are both burning...which is a no brainer....
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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I suspect that with the reduced voltage from both filaments burning at once the filaments would actually last longer. The stator may pay the price though if you overload it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I didn't notice much dimming/brightening when the switch was changed, but at idle there was about a 1v drop on the meter.

Don't think it will tax the stator, since the stator runs wide open above idle anyway.

If I don't pop a fuse, I don't foresee any problem. Not sure the rocker switch will stay put on bumps.
 

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what wmsontra is saying holds water, heat is what kills filaments, actually spikes in changing temperature kills them quicker than anything else.

But extra heat is not going to make them last longer that is for sure.

If you want your bulbs to last longer, put a large cap across them, the cap takes the initial burst of current and the bulb comes up slower which will prolong its life, the fact is, it ain't at all worth it for a 10$ bulb.

My concern with the switch in the middle would be arcing the contacts and melting them away, also voltage drop across higher resistance contacts.

If you want to run both filiments go for it, but wire it that way with a toggle switch not some magical sweet spot in the middle, as soon as you go over a bump I bet it pops out of that spot.

But hey go for it.

If you want more light, just get an offroad bulb, 80 / 100W but then you got the folks that say it beats up the charging system, but here you are running two filiments at once. A 55W and a 60W that is 110W but I would be willing to bet you are not getting full power out of the bulb in this 'center' spot cause of the losses / high resistance contact.

I don't understand why some people bother with doing weird stuff, if you want more light, get a light that makes more light


Good luck

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well thanks, but it's not magical.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
...actually spikes in changing temperature kills them quicker than anything else. ...
Yet we switch from low to high to low repeatedly on single lamps that last tens of thousands of miles.

My concern with the switch in the middle would be arcing the contacts and melting them away, also voltage drop across higher resistance contacts. ...

,,, willing to bet you are not getting full power out of the bulb in this 'center' spot cause of the losses ....
You assume arcing and losses, yet in actuality there is no flickering or dimming.
 

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Bearcat
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Or you could get a set of running lights like me. Just got done wiring in some new leds on my homemade highway bar/pegs. They are down low so they work as fog lights by they do show the 20 or so feet where the headlamp doesn't shine. I used to have a set of incanesents by one tore off last fall when I layers her down in the yard, stupid frost. Plus the extra lights make u more visible and look bad ass at night :)
 

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Not to thread jack....
...but. James, What hand guards are those that you have installed?
 

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Deliberately jacking a thread...I got a pair of driving lights....40 watt each hallogen....$40 plus shipping (dollar per watt)....guaranteed to work and burn the eyes outta anyone comin the other way....I got my Harley lightbar now with 35's, so I dont need these no more.....universal mount...old, but they work....
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I had 55 watt ones on my goldwing.wanna find some 65 or70 watt ones.the wings electrical will handle it.don't get me wrong the 55'd are BRIGHT but the 70's would really be bright
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Spock, you apparently are going to proceed. PM me, I will tell you how to do some thing like you want w/o using the dimmer switch. It is easy and simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I don't understand why some people bother with doing weird stuff, ...
If some people didn't bother doing "weird stuff", you'd still be stuffing hay in the front of your ride and scooping up road bisquits at the rear.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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