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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, so I just got a 1986 vn750 and overall its in pretty good shape. It has a few problems: the starter makes a clicking noise, but wont start the bike and the headlight doesn't turn on. The headlight did actually work for a little, but now it won't. I tested at the plug and all the resistance looked ok I think the highest resistance was like 60 something ohms(or maybe 60,000 now that i think about it. I'm not quite sure.) When I tried measuring voltage I didn't really get anything. When i tested between a blue/white wire and a yellow/black wire i got the full voltage of the battery(those two just happened to have free plugs inside the headlamp case). As for the starter it worked earlier, but now it just makes a clicking noise. I'm currently charging the battery to try again tomorrow and I'll update this if anything changes. If anyone could give me some help of any sort I would really appreciate it.

Thank you,
Clayton
 

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Giggity!
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Don't get to distraught about he headlight just yet. It runs off a trigger wire from the stator which then actuates the relay that turns on the headlight once the motor has started running.

So, no run, no light.

Now, the starter. They can fail at any time. Just like a cars. First
What type of battery is in your bike?
Does it have a full charge? If it does, here's something to try.
I'm pretty sure the clicking is the solinoid trying to work but, if you
jump a screwdriver across the terminals of the solinoid, it should try to start if the starters
Good.

If that fails, the starter is probably shot. Rebuild kits on eBay are around
$30 & aren't to bad to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the quick response. I guess I should have waited before posting, but after charging the battery it starts up fine and the headlight comes on. The actual issue is that it isn't charging while running. I guess that means the stator needs replacing? Does anyone know how much it would cost a shop to do it? Or is that something I could probably do myself? I'm not a bike expert, but I am pretty handy with tools and I learn pretty quick. I have seen some other posts on here about this issue, but I don't know what difficulty level these things are. Thank you.

Update:

So I decided to go ahead with the stator mod I found on here(cutting out the hole etc.) One question I have for someone is when unscrewing the bolts holding the stator cover on there are these little red things with o rings on them. What are these? Do I need to replace them when I reinstall the stator cover? And Where would I get them? Thank you again.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Update:

So I decided to go ahead with the stator mod I found on here(cutting out the hole etc.) One question I have for someone is when unscrewing the bolts holding the stator cover on there are these little red things with o rings on them. What are these? Do I need to replace them when I reinstall the stator cover? And Where would I get them? Thank you again.
How many miles on the bike ?
If pulling the cover to replace Stator & applying The Mod, I would replace the Vibration Dampers...$40.00 for all six. (Note: The Vibration Cam Gear is mounted with a Left-threaded bolt !)
My Vibration Dampers went out at 13 K miles. Total repair almost $800 !

hope this helps
:smiley_th

EDIT: pics of damage are in my Avatar Photo Albums
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well the bike has 37k miles so I'll look into those vibration dampers. The one issue I have with going forward with this and applying the mod is I can't figure out how I'm going to cut out that circle. Iv'e used dremels before and I don't know how I'd cut out a circle(curves) in metal that thick with a cut off wheel. Some other concerns I have are: how do I keep metal shavings out and minimize risk of fire. How long would it take two people to replace the stator the long way(dropping engine)?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
slimvulcanrider, THANK YOU! I knew about those bits, but I wasn't sure that was the right tool. So it really isn't that hard to cut then is it? I was actually really scared about this, but I think I could definitely do it with a bit like that.(Just would take some patience).
 

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Sparky!!!
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take your time, use the highest speed possible, and use a cutting oil. personally though I would pull the engine (or at least tilt it) so I could get the cover all the way off the bike, and eliminate the chance of getting shavings inside the engine.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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take your time, use the highest speed possible, and use a cutting oil. personally though I would pull the engine (or at least tilt it) so I could get the cover all the way off the bike, and eliminate the chance of getting shavings inside the engine.
...with cover off, the LH threaded bolt is very accessible for Vibration Damper replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Are there any tutorials that would help me to get the cover off? I would rather take apart as little of the engine or really anything as possible so maybe this idea of tilting the engine? is what I wan't however that does not sound like something I'd find in the manual. I agree that I would feel much better doing this with the cover off for a million reasons so if its not a huge project to do so then I definitely want to do that. I just don't know what I would search for to find this in the forums so if any of you know of a post or tutorial I would really appreciate it. Thank you!

Edit:
So I may have found the tutorial if by tilting the engine we mean turning it to the right...Although that seems nearly as hard as just taking the whole thing out so idk. Also just thinking how bad would the risk of metal shavings be if i plugged all the holes with oil soaked rags and had a shop vac running right next to the dremel? I can also do a full oil change afterwards if that would help too. I guess another possible option could be to pay a a shop to get the stator cover off and give it to me and then I can go do what I gotta do and then bring it back and install it myself or something. I'm not sure how much that would cost though.
 

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I left the bevel gear case attached, used ratchet straps along with floor jack and 2x6 block. Used a wood mallet between frame and front head to wedge the tilt just right. Work slowly, watch, adjust. Don't put the shift shaft in a bind, and the engine must go forward and off the driveshaft splines before it can go up more than 1/4-1/2".

I had the rear gear off for spline lube so that made mating the shaft and bevel gear easier on reassembly. But it can be done with the rear in place, just takes some finesse.

I looped the straps around the engine and frame to keep the engine from falling off the jack.
 

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PS- Had the airbox out (permanently) and left the carbs and cables on the engine. Clutch arm removed from engine.
 

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If you want to see some video's of the engine work, go to youtube and look up Andrew Roth 1985 Kawasaki Engine Rebuild. The engine is off of the bike but his video's will show you what ever thing looks like before you start. AND I also will suggest doing the dampers while your in there (Video part 20). 18mm x 1.5 bolt (a lot cheaper)or Kawasaki fly wheel tool needed. There's about 30 video's to the engine rebuild so look through them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok thank you. I guess I'm just about ready to go then. The only thing left that could help me would be a picture of what a "tilted" engine looks like(I'm googling my hardest, but to no avail) as I am still confused about that. I really appreciate all of your help. Thank you!
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Ok thank you. I guess I'm just about ready to go then. The only thing left that could help me would be a picture of what a "tilted" engine looks like(I'm googling my hardest, but to no avail) as I am still confused about that. I really appreciate all of your help. Thank you!
Basically, if Spockster had disconnected the Choke & Throttle Cables, and maybe removed the front cylinder exhaust header, he could have muscled the engine completely out. I think all said & done, equal effort/hassle time spent either method (tilt or removal).

ps: No special / trained mechanical skills needed.

hope this helps
:smiley_th
 

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Got to say having the bike lift from Harbor Freight sure is nice for doing this.:rockon:
I thought so also...sold mine after attempted use as an aide.
Lift assisted while disconnecting/removing stuff but,
Placed the bike on the ground for final engine removal.
Floor jack & wood blocks a necessity.

:smiley_th
 

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if Spockster had disconnected the Choke & Throttle Cables, and maybe removed the front cylinder exhaust header, he could have muscled the engine completely out.
But then it would have to go all the back in, and being away from the frame, probably would have fallen off the jack. I Didn't want to lift it by hand.

Here's some of the pics I have:










 
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