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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1991 Vulcan 750 and I’m another victim of the headlight not working and did the blue wire mod, which worked and got the headlight to turn on. However, when the headlight switch is in low beam the bulb actually starts to let off smoke. But high beam doesn’t but gets extremely hot might even get off smoke aswell. I put an inline fuse in the headlight bucket right before it gets to the bulb on the middle red yellow wire (low beam) Any ideas why it’s still smoking. I ordered another junction box so when it comes I’ll revert back to the regular wiring instead of blue wire mod. But seriuosly loss for words why it’s smoking. I’ve traced the wires and see nothing abnormal checked continuity 0 ohlms.

Anything else? Anyone have this problem before?
 

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Ok just so I understand, you have the stock fuse still in place AND another 10A fuse in line with the headlight? You also said you did the blue wire mod, which is just moving the one wire out at the junction box connector to bypass the headlight relay. Did you do anything else besides just trying to get the headlight to work? If the fuses are blowing I’d be looking for a pinched wire in the headlight bucket or along the harness. Even an old school incandescent headlight bulb won’t pull that much juice on its own.
 

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Smoking headlight is crazy! The low beam draws less amps than the high, so on it's own it isn't going to be the issue. Does the low beam turn on? As mmart says, check the wiring near the headlight. A pinched wire may overheat due to increased resistance, whereas while short to ground can also overheat it is more likely to trip a fuse. Focus on the red/yellow wire for the low beam filament.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok just so I understand, you have the stock fuse still in place AND another 10A fuse in line with the headlight? You also said you did the blue wire mod, which is just moving the one wire out at the junction box connector to bypass the headlight relay. Did you do anything else besides just trying to get the headlight to work? If the fuses are blowing I’d be looking for a pinched wire in the headlight bucket or along the harness. Even an old school incandescent headlight bulb won’t pull that much juice on its own.
That is correct with the fuses. Nothing else has been done and the fuses aren’t even blowing that’s what’s weird.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Smoking headlight is crazy! The low beam draws less amps than the high, so on it's own it isn't going to be the issue. Does the low beam turn on? As mmart says, check the wiring near the headlight. A pinched wire may overheat due to increased resistance, whereas while short to ground can also overheat it is more likely to trip a fuse. Focus on the red/yellow wire for the low beam filament.
Here is some pictures I took this morning I even thru a 7.5amp fuse to lower it.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design
Automotive lighting Asphalt Wood Gas Tints and shades
 

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Doesn’t appear the pics uploaded, regardless , the amount of current to make the bulb smoke might not be enough to blow the fuses. A 55w incandescent headlight bulb will pull a max of 4.5A with 12 volts across it.
 

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Wait, the smoke is coming from the bulb itself? I guess I was imagining smoke coming from the housing. That's not going to be a wiring or fuse problem, but either a manufacturing defect of the bulb, or possibly some residue on the bulb burning off from the heat? Shot in the dark but maybe try wiping it down with alcohol and let it dry?
 

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Wait, the smoke is coming from the bulb itself? I guess I was imagining smoke coming from the housing. That's not going to be a wiring or fuse problem, but either a manufacturing defect of the bulb, or possibly some residue on the bulb burning off from the heat? Shot in the dark but maybe try wiping it down with alcohol and let it dry?
That's what I was thinking, moisture or something else on the bulb. I'd think a smoking wire would blow a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wait, the smoke is coming from the bulb itself? I guess I was imagining smoke coming from the housing. That's not going to be a wiring or fuse problem, but either a manufacturing defect of the bulb, or possibly some residue on the bulb burning off from the heat? Shot in the dark but maybe try wiping it down with alcohol and let it dry?
yea the smoke is coming off of the bulb, sorry if i explained it wrong. ok i will wipe it down and hopefully its just residue from oily fingers. i bought a new bulb and the same thing happens but once again im pretty sure i touched the bulb with my fingers leaving the fats and lipids off my fingers so hopefully wiping it down works. thanks guys.
 

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yea the smoke is coming off of the bulb, sorry if i explained it wrong. ok i will wipe it down and hopefully its just residue from oily fingers. i bought a new bulb and the same thing happens but once again im pretty sure i touched the bulb with my fingers leaving the fats and lipids off my fingers so hopefully wiping it down works. thanks guys.
You're not supposed to touch a halogen bulb with your fingers. The oil in the fingerprint reflects heat back into the bulb and shortens the lifespan.

Isopropyl alcohol would be perfect to clean it, leaves no residue like other alcohol will.
 

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Just sounds like yet another reason to look into a quality LED bulb, ;)
I hope it’s just a case dirty hands, I misread the original post, I didn’t realize the smoke was from the bulb itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It stopped smoking however doing the bypass method definitely drained my battery during a 5 min ride and left me stranded. Battery got all the way to 5v. Had to have the wife bring my portable jumper and still didn’t make it home all the way so I pushed it the rest. No clue what the deal is now. I even had a toggle switch so the light didn’t drain the battery when starting and just left it off for the ride. I’m charging the battery now and put the wire back to its original spot to see if the bike rides and run normal that way. If that doesn’t work then I’m guessing I ****ed the stator or r/r which would suck cus they were installed brand new.
 

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I have read some of the problems you have had and notice you mention a new R&R and Stator. Do you mind letting us know what brand(s) you went with and what kind of battery do you have? Also, honestly the wire mods have been done a lot and I do not recall ever reading they resulted in the battery drain you have. Sorry to post this in the Verses as it should probably be moved to a better suited forum. I am glad that you sorted out the smoking light bulb issue. I always was lead to understand the oil on fingers would burn into the halogen bulbs glass ruining them. Hopefully you saved your's in time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have read some of the problems you have had and notice you mention a new R&R and Stator. Do you mind letting us know what brand(s) you went with and what kind of battery do you have? Also, honestly the wire mods have been done a lot and I do not recall ever reading they resulted in the battery drain you have. Sorry to post this in the Verses as it should probably be moved to a better suited forum. I am glad that you sorted out the smoking light bulb issue. I always was lead to understand the oil on fingers would burn into the halogen bulbs glass ruining them. Hopefully you saved your's in time.
ELECTROSPORT ESG050 Stator
I have read some of the problems you have had and notice you mention a new R&R and Stator. Do you mind letting us know what brand(s) you went with and what kind of battery do you have? Also, honestly the wire mods have been done a lot and I do not recall ever reading they resulted in the battery drain you have. Sorry to post this in the Verses as it should probably be moved to a better suited forum. I am glad that you sorted out the smoking light bulb issue. I always was lead to understand the oil on fingers would burn into the halogen bulbs glass ruining them. Hopefully you saved your's in time.
Stator is ELECTROSPORT ESG050 Stator and r/r was bought off partzilla with my bike info put in should be the same one that originally comes with the bike.
 

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That stator should be more than up to the task of providing power to your bike (it is supposed to be 20% over stock and has been used by many rider's) and while the R/R upgrade to a Mosfet is widely held as "better" the original - stock replacement should not cause a problem like you have been experiencing unless one or both are defective from the factory. Sadly defects have happened but the testing procedure outlined throughout this forum and/or in the Clymer's manual will rule a defective part out. Other than a defect you have not been able to put enough miles on your bike for heat to damage the R/R yet even if it is still in the stock location.

If your battery is as up to snuff as the stator and R/R I think those parts are fine. Nor do I think a bad installation job would result in the odd readings you are reporting. My own experience with a failed stator does not give me a clear answer about how far my bike will run on just the battery because have not tested it in that manner.

You did indicate you have a switch for your headlight to turn it off for starting. Where did you interrupt the system to install that? When I installed my headlight on/off switch on the ground side of the headlight wiring I did experience a issue that resulted in the bright (blue) indicator light turnning on. No other problems though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That stator should be more than up to the task of providing power to your bike (it is supposed to be 20% over stock and has been used by many rider's) and while the R/R upgrade to a Mosfet is widely held as "better" the original - stock replacement should not cause a problem like you have been experiencing unless one or both are defective from the factory. Sadly defects have happened but the testing procedure outlined throughout this forum and/or in the Clymer's manual will rule a defective part out. Other than a defect you have not been able to put enough miles on your bike for heat to damage the R/R yet even if it is still in the stock location.

If your battery is as up to snuff as the stator and R/R I think those parts are fine. Nor do I think a bad installation job would result in the odd readings you are reporting. My own experience with a failed stator does not give me a clear answer about how far my bike will run on just the battery because have not tested it in that manner.

You did indicate you have a switch for your headlight to turn it off for starting. Where did you interrupt the system to install that? When I installed my headlight on/off switch on the ground side of the headlight wiring I did experience a issue that resulted in the bright (blue) indicator light turnning on. No other problems though.
So while checking the stator I price I was grounded on all three yellow wires so I unwrapped everything and saw nothing then went to where my stator was and noticed the wires inside the stator go caught up and stredded inside it. Unfortunately I don’t have the tuxedo mod for the stator to easily accessible but I did manager to clear it out rewired the stator pull it thru the annoying horrible small pin hole and connect it all back up and looks like it’s reading good. 1.1 ohms between all yellow wires and reading 0.L when doing continuity. It’s staying around 13.2v running and doesn’t go over 13.95v when revving the engine. Surprisingly enough the headlight came back on when I put the blue wire mod back to the original setting. Sadly though the gatt damn horn doesn’t work. Good thing I haven’t taped the wires up yet. What do you think about the readings.
 
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