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Hello, I'll get down to intro real soon but for now... I bought an 89 VN750 with 30k miles that didn't charge. I just installed a Tim Parrot re-wound stator, coupled with Shindengen (MOSFET) relocated about an inch over JB. Conducted test on stator; she works perfect (not grounding & idle = 31-32 Vac & 3k rpms = 60-70+ Vac.

My problem: she doesn't charge correctly once I connect the headlight (JB yellow to stator leg), I'm barely getting 13v (DC). But, when I connect just the stator to the mosfet, (WITHOUT the yellow headlight relay wire in the JB) I get an awsome 14.27+v, but of course, no headlight. So I moved the Blue wire of the JB 8-connector to the empty slot (yes, I've done extensive research on this site) and now I have headlight upon turn of key but... only 13.5v (cold eng). This is unacceptable voltage for a cold engine, and I'm not too happy with this blue wire rearrangement (bypassing trigger relay/3 diodes of JB).

What/where/how do I look for this power drain? short? Something is not right. why is she draining nearly a whole volt upon teeing off the headlight?

Thank you.
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
While 13.5v is not unacceptable voltage for idle, I personally see 14.6v across all RPMS with my MOSFET/TPE stator.

I'd check the wiring for the headlight. Clean all connectors associated with it, etc, and go from there.
 

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Hello, I'll get down to intro real soon but for now... I bought an 89 VN750 with 30k miles that didn't charge. I just installed a Tim Parrot re-wound stator, coupled with Shindengen (MOSFET) relocated about an inch over JB. Conducted test on stator; she works perfect (not grounding & idle = 31-32 Vac & 3k rpms = 60-70+ Vac.

My problem: she doesn't charge correctly once I connect the headlight (JB yellow to stator leg), I'm barely getting 13v (DC). But, when I connect just the stator to the mosfet, (WITHOUT the yellow headlight relay wire in the JB) I get an awsome 14.27+v, but of course, no headlight. So I moved the Blue wire of the JB 8-connector to the empty slot (yes, I've done extensive research on this site) and now I have headlight upon turn of key but... only 13.5v (cold eng). This is unacceptable voltage for a cold engine, and I'm not too happy with this blue wire rearrangement (bypassing trigger relay/3 diodes of JB).

What/where/how do I look for this power drain? short? Something is not right. why is she draining nearly a whole volt upon teeing off the headlight?

Thank you.
check the bulb itself, make sure it is not a 80/100 bulb, they draw more then the 55/65

Make sure your voltage checks are at higher RPM, these bikes don't really charge at idle.

kenny
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Hello, I'll get down to intro real soon but for now... I bought an 89 VN750 with 30k miles that didn't charge. I just installed a Tim Parrot re-wound stator, coupled with Shindengen (MOSFET) relocated about an inch over JB. Conducted test on stator; she works perfect (not grounding & idle = 31-32 Vac & 3k rpms = 60-70+ Vac.

My problem: she doesn't charge correctly once I connect the headlight (JB yellow to stator leg), I'm barely getting 13v (DC). But, when I connect just the stator to the mosfet, (WITHOUT the yellow headlight relay wire in the JB) I get an awsome 14.27+v, but of course, no headlight. So I moved the Blue wire of the JB 8-connector to the empty slot (yes, I've done extensive research on this site) and now I have headlight upon turn of key but... only 13.5v (cold eng). This is unacceptable voltage for a cold engine, and I'm not too happy with this blue wire rearrangement (bypassing trigger relay/3 diodes of JB).

What/where/how do I look for this power drain? short? Something is not right. why is she draining nearly a whole volt upon teeing off the headlight?

Thank you.
I would suspect the old wire harness as the voltage sucker culprit. The same reason the "Coil Mod" is recommended. Is there a voltage difference between Low & High Beam ?
I would run new (replacement) headlight wires as necessary...also ensure the headlight has a good electrical ground.
:smiley_th
 

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1986 VN750
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just curious...does your low/hi beam actually work?

I am curious if the low beam filament is burned out and the system is forcing the high beam on.
That is a good thing to note. I believe you are correct that the high beam activates if the low beam has failed.
 

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The headlight will draw 4-5 amps hi or lo. Only 5 watts different. I would suggest you have the battery tested.
agreed unless it has an offroad type bulb.... 80/100W

just saying, worth a quick check

kenny
 

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agreed unless it has an offroad type bulb.... 80/100W

just saying, worth a quick check

kenny
Agreed. Merc, why do you think Kaw chose to overcharge the battery? Higher voltage keeps the R/R from shunting higher amperage to ground with the large increase in heat.
 

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Bearcat
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135 Posts
When all else fails put it on a toggle switch :) I love those things. Simple and effective, plus if you run your own new wires with it u know that all connections are clean an secure.
 
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