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Discussion Starter #1
I'm doing this backwards for once, posting before I search for a thread on this, but this is really bizarre.

My headlight doesn't always go on when I start the bike. This started yesterday. Or at least I noticed it yesterday. Anyways. Hit the starter, bike starts up really well, light doesn't go on. Do it again, same thing. Do it again, light goes on. It's not consistent at all, sometimes the headlight pops on, sometimes it doesn't. But as soon as the bike is started the headlight either stays on or off, no flickering.

I'm guessing this has something to do with the relay that keeps the light off when the bike is just on battery? And it not getting tripped when I start the bike sometimes?
 

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I'm still a little confused about whether this is a relay or diode issue, but the work-around - assuming it's the diode - is to take the blue wire out of the 10-pin connector and move it to the empty slot (seeing as how it's a 10-pin with only 9 filled slots). I had a devil of a time getting the wire out of the connector in the first place, but once I did, the headlight came on as soon as I turned the key in the ignition (bike didn't have to actually start for the light to come on). Also don't know if relays and diodes can "come and go" like that - maybe check the connection and see that it's clean and tight.
 

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Sounds like a sticky relay in the junction box. Cindy's solution works OK but be aware that if you leave the ignition on, the headlight the head light is also on.
The relay can be replaced but it is difficult and the easy solution is to replace the junction box.
 

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Be cautious as to diagnosis.

After lengthy troubleshooting and searching the threads I replaced the fuse/junction box, and the RLD (reverve lighting device). No help, still exact same issues as posted above. So now I'm hacked....I've jsut turned from mechanic to parts-changer.

After more lengthy research and reading, the junction box uses the signal from one leg of the stator to "latch" the headlight on. There were lots of ways to "bypass" and work around this issue, but beiung the wife's bike, we fixed it right. After more testing, the stator and the recifier both were toast.

So my no-headlight ended up being a $300 home job to replace the stator and the R/R. Don't have it up and going yet...wating on the R/R this Wed, will update as soon as I can. Unless the HL isn't working after all this, then it's a .45 caliber solution!
 

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Be cautious as to diagnosis.

After lengthy troubleshooting and searching the threads I replaced the fuse/junction box, and the RLD (reverve lighting device). No help, still exact same issues as posted above. So now I'm hacked....I've jsut turned from mechanic to parts-changer.

After more lengthy research and reading, the junction box uses the signal from one leg of the stator to "latch" the headlight on. There were lots of ways to "bypass" and work around this issue, but beiung the wife's bike, we fixed it right. After more testing, the stator and the recifier both were toast.

So my no-headlight ended up being a $300 home job to replace the stator and the R/R. Don't have it up and going yet...wating on the R/R this Wed, will update as soon as I can. Unless the HL isn't working after all this, then it's a .45 caliber solution!

Do you have a voltmeter hooked up to the bike? And svarog, ditto? That's certainly a quick way to assess the state of the charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have been having charing 'issues' that seemed to be resolved by a loose cable. I'll go back over that when there's a dry day with a few hours.

I've been checking my voltage manually before and after rides and it seems like my charging system is behaving properly. Still need to get a voltmeter on it, any recommends on brand/model?
 

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Do you have a voltmeter hooked up to the bike? And svarog, ditto? That's certainly a quick way to assess the state of the charging system.
Did the check prior to all this, 12.37 steady, no change with increased rpm. This is what led me to test the stator and find out it was kaput, then same with the R/R and it to gone with the schwinn.

Got the bike finished up last night, R/R came in today and just installed it, fired-up the bike and low and behold the HL worked immediately and every time like it is supposed to. Haven't checked the voltage yet, gotta go back to work, will see where it's at now later on tonight. Thanks again to all here who lent me their talent, expertise and previous experience.

By the way, if you want an authorative and semi-loud sound from your pipes w/o breaking the bank, get the GB bypass kit! WOW, her bike sounds authoritive now, loud and deep on accel, great low-end rumble at idle/cruise. Def. one of the best mods we made.
 

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I have been having charing 'issues' that seemed to be resolved by a loose cable. I'll go back over that when there's a dry day with a few hours.

I've been checking my voltage manually before and after rides and it seems like my charging system is behaving properly. Still need to get a voltmeter on it, any recommends on brand/model?
I've been looking at two different ones, one is a Charge Guard multi-function:
http://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=5

The other is just a simple LED swing of red to green to red lights:
http://www.customdynamics.com/LED_battery_gauge.htm.
Not sure which I want to go with yet.
 

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You guys aren't going to believe this..
While I was up at Spring Fling my headlight went out.. After testing the usual suspects and trying for the life of me to remember the bypass on the connector.. (Doh! How many times have I told people about this and then when I need it, I get a case of CRS!)
Anyway, hubby rewired and did a relay into a switched relay so the headlight comes on when you turn the key. Come home and find out.. it's the blue wire!
So this weekend we will either swap out the junction box or swap the blue wire to get everything right. as for now, I have a headlight.
 

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Do you have a voltmeter hooked up to the bike? And svarog, ditto? That's certainly a quick way to assess the state of the charging system.
Got one on the way from Kury, I just got the bike done tonight....almost a month later. I ended up taking apart every connector and the entire harness between the Btry box and the neck. Long and short, got the headlight working with many thanks to those on this forum who have trudged this route prior to me.
I am happy now that my wife has all new cables, new levers, new stator & R/R, fused stator, soldered connectors, completely checked and re-taped harness, etc. God to go!
 

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I'm still a little confused about whether this is a relay or diode issue, but the work-around - assuming it's the diode - is to take the blue wire out of the 10-pin connector and move it to the empty slot (seeing as how it's a 10-pin with only 9 filled slots). I had a devil of a time getting the wire out of the connector in the first place, but once I did, the headlight came on as soon as I turned the key in the ignition (bike didn't have to actually start for the light to come on). Also don't know if relays and diodes can "come and go" like that - maybe check the connection and see that it's clean and tight.
Hey Cindy, I'm having similar problems.. I was able to get the wire out and put it into the extra space however, it doesn't seem to be as tight in there as it was initially was. Any tips/pointers because at this point, it doesn't seem to have worked.
Thanks,
loc
 
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