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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I bought a wiring harness a while back, thanks to this forum I was able to get a great deal on ebay (thanks guys!) and now that I'm finished with classes I can finally replace it :)

Here's something that is happening and I find weird...

When I turn on the bike and it's cold, the bike will shut off if I turn the handlebars to the right. My first thought about this was that when I turn the handlebars a wire is being pulled and it's in bad condition so it shuts off the bike... however, once it warms up it stops doing it, which seems weird, cause if it's a wire then bike temp shouldn't matter... should it?

I'm still gonna try replacing the wiring harness and see if I don't screw it up lol. I'm thinking about removing the seat, tank, neck covers, side covers and battery and putting the new harness next to the old one and just try unplugging stuff from the old one and plugging it onto the new one before going to the next connection... hopefully I can do it like this and it won't be too hard and I won't miss any connections.

If you guys have any advice or tips, they are very welcome!
 

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I vaguely remember reading some similar problem on this site. I think the issue ended up being a faulty ground somewhere, but I'm not 100% sure.

*Update*
Well, this is all I could find. It may just be a simple spare key short or maybe the ignition switch:

"This may sound crazy, but it is true. I was having similar problems and Gypsy suggested that the extra keys hanging from my key chain were contacting the frame and causing an elecrtical 'short' to ground throught the keys and the key ring. I removed the extra keys, leaving only the ignition key, and the problem stopped. Some VN 750s throughout its existance have had defective ignition switches. For instance, with my 1995 VN 750, the engine would die if I turned the handlebars hard right. One time I turned the handlebars hard left and the main 30 amp fuse operated (blew). I replaced the ignition switch, and that problem was solved. It can be repaired though, but I happened to have an extra one. The sources of these electrical problems are very hard to find sometimes. I guess the only way is by progress of elimination and determination. Any of the other replys to your post could be the cause too, so don't overlook anything."

http://www.vn750.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1166.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well that's definitely not something I would have thought about lol... I gave the hockey puck a good clean and stretched the little springs a bit a while back... I guess I'll try it without any other keys attached and then take a look at the ignition switch... I dunno how to take the cylinder out though, I'll search the forum later.
 

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Sparky!!!
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in regards to replacing the harness... there is only one way to hook it up.. the right way.. lol.. but seriously, there is only one way for everything to plug in. no two connectors are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea, but you're assuming that the connectors are in good condition lol... judging by the condition of the current harness, I wouldn't be surprised if it's missing a few connectors and the cables are just tied together.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, it turns out that a few connectors aren't the same between the new wiring harness and the old one. Two connectors are left unplugged because of being different and I thought I'd try it and see if it would work anyway, but the start button isn't working.

I started the bike by putting a screwdriver between the starter solenoid contacts, so it does fire up, but the button is doing nothing.

Time to study some wiring diagrams I suppose u_u

I can't believe I thought this was going to be easy lol.
 

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You can use the plug-ins from your old harness if it is a fitment issue, just use butt connectors and shrink tube to splice them on. I think it is just 2 or 3 wires that connect the start button.
 

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Sparky!!!
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Inspect, clean, and repair your start button. I bet the solder on the wires inside the start button have come un-soldered due to prolonged cranking in the past. the start button is not a very heavy duty switch. just a tiny drop of solder on both wires going into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It was working just fine before I tried changing the wiring harness, so I think it has more to do with the wiring than solder points...

The thing is, these two connectors that are different, the old ones have 6 contacts/cables and the new harness only has 3. I don't know exactly what they connect, one of them is beside the coil on the front of the bike and there are I think 5 connectors that are held in place by a metal bracket. One of those 5 is the one that has 6 cables but the new harness only has 3 and the connector is half the size.

The other one is inside the headlamp, goes into the instruments, same problem as the other, it's supposed to have 6 cables on the connector but the new harness only has 3.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Could be you have a harness for an `89 or newer bike without self cancelling signals.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea, I do have the newer harness, I thought the only difference would be the self canceling turn signals, which didn't even work anyway, but I'm not sure what's going on with those connectors that have 3 wires less than they should.
 

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Now you got me thinking.

I bought a harness a while ago for my 93' where it has some bad/spliced wires. I noticed when I got the harness, it has a box that says self-canceling flasher/blinker. I think I better take a better look at it to see if I might have the same problem as you are. I figured it will fit and hope it does without having to hack stuff up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, if you have the pre 89 harness, maybe we could trade... or we could help each other figure it out... if I knew what that connector is for, I could progress a bit... tomorrow I'll take off the gauges and see exactly where that connector goes to.
 

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Sparky!!!
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also be on the look out for CA model harnesses... they will through you for a loop.. took me three weeks of looking at a spaghetti bowl of wires to finally decide to get rid of the whole harness and make my own.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Make your own? How did you go about doing that?
 

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A good wiring diagram, butt connectors, shrink tube, and lots of patience is needed. I did my cousins harness for his stretched (9") 84' Yamaha Virago 1100. That was NOT fun. lol

Oh and yeah I'll take a look at my harness and do some checking and maybe we could trade. It'll be a couple days though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's cool, I'm not going anywhere lol. I'm thinking about taking a look at my old harness and just repairing any damage... though that's not an easy thing to do either, so I dunno...

Here's a question about the self canceling turn signals... I read they're supposed to have cancel out after 50 meters of travel... does this mean if the speedo doesn't work they don't work either? Cause the diagram points to a distance sensor, I'm only guessing it's the same as the speedo unit down by the wheel... think that's it?
 

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I had this same problem on my 94. I replaced the Harness and I could not get it to start. The horn wires are shorter as well, everytime I plugg them in the pull right out when I turn. Anyway, the problem I had was in the safety switches. I could not figure it out. I chased all the wires and tested everything and it all tested good. I ended up bypassing all of the safety switches by grounding a wire at the ECU. I found the info on the site here somewhere. I would focus on your safety switches. Clutch,Kickstand, Stop/Run. You can try grounding the wire to see if thats your problem.
 
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