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Discussion Starter #1
Well it finally happened. After 170,000 miles on 2 Vulcan 750s (92,000 on my current one) the stator finally failed. I am not going to replace it due to the high mileage, and I have been hearing what sounds like cam chain noise for the past few thousand miles. The TOC adjusters don't stop it. It would be just my luck to replace the stator and then have a cam chain break. I put it in the shed out back with a cover on it, until I decide what to do. Probably Craigslist.

Fortunately not very long before this happened, I had just bought a brand new 2013 Royal Enfield. It came with EFI. I am saving up for a carb conversion kit which costs almost $600. But it comes with a genuine Amal concentric MK1 carb.


 

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2014 KLR 650!
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Why in the world would you go put a carb on a bike if it had fuel injection? I'm hoping t save up for a 2007 or better sportster so I can HAVE fuel injection.
 

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92k is a pretty good run.

Maybe save for the kit, but I wouldn't fix it until it's broke, may never break.

Surely the power and mpg are better with EFI, and ethanol isn't such a problem.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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"Fine engineered machine";).sorry to hear about the Vulcan.you got a lotta fun outta her

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Discussion Starter #6
Jerry doesn't like them new fangled fuel squirters. He didn't like having two discs on his front wheel so he took one off.
He's just different that way....;)
I will be putting the brakes back before it goes on Craigslist. But with just one disc, it has several times more braking ability then the Enfield. The EFI serves no purpose. Carbed Enfields get better mileage and run better. It is strictly there for the EPA. According to the plug, it is running on the lean side. But unlike a carb, I can't just upjet. You have to buy a $400 Power Commander to tune the FI. For less than $200 more, I can get a carb setup and be done with it. The reason for buying such a bike is partly so you can tinker with it anyway.
 

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If I ever get a new bike, it better be right or it's going back.

Is it even broken in yet? It's going to make more heat during break-in, "lean side" may be about right. Does look like a lot of blue on the headpipe. Is that rust or shadow on the muffler?

The VN ... part it out, part it out! Dibs on the TOCs :)
 

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I had Amals on 2 different bikes....the Trumpet and the Beezer...my only gripe was when ya hit the primer button, they pissed on yer leg....otherwise were good carbs....
 

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Ya, I guess so....but I always smelled like gas wherever i went, lol....
 

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My buddy bought a new Enfield Bullet a couple of years ago. Fun little bike to put around on.

as an FYI, his developed some running idling issues that we tracked down to two things:
1. The spark plug wire was loose between the coil and the spark plug boot. Not sure if it was loose from the factory, or if it shook itself loose from vibration while riding.

2. The ignition switch internals are a little loose. The key has to sit JUST right in the ignition to let the bike power up. I was out on a test ride on it and it vibrated itself just a little and killed power to the bike.

I'll be looking at the ignition switch soon to see If I can rebuild it and save him from having to buy a new one.

The spark plug wire, I just replaced with a left over piece of wire from when I redid the wires for my VN750.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
As far as the pipe on the Enfield, that is normal. It is a single walled pipe where it leaves the head, there is an 02 sensor on the other side. It's cheap chrome, and blues easily. The circle around the muffler is also heat damage. It still has the stock muffler (soon to be changed) and it has a catalytic converter in it which gets really hot.

According to the plug, it is running lean, and there is no way to adjust EFI without spending $400 on a Power Commander. Rather than invest more money into electronics, for a couple hundred more, I can get a complete carb conversion kit, and jet it the way I want it.

A RE is basically a brand new vintage bike, other than the EFI. It does not have the reliability of a modern Japanese bike, but is way more fun. That long stroke single sounds and feels like a jackhammer pounding away down there, and it has a heavy flywheel. It's the kind of bike I've always wanted. It's not for everybody. This is the real thing, it requires a lot of maintenance, and occasional repairs. But it is simple and easy to work on.

The Vulcan is still rideable. I rode it from home up to Payson and back a few days ago, about 220 miles. I disconnected all the lights, started with a fully charged battery, and carried a spare. I made it all the way up there and back on one battery. I used the starter twice, but hooked a jump start pack to it when starting it at home. I can't keep doing that, eventually I will get busted by a cop for no headlight.

I don't have the patience to part it out. Except for the engine (and even that has a lot of good parts) it's a solid bike with a lot of Kawasaki accessories. I don't even know for sure if there is a problem with the cam chains or not, it just doesn't sound right to me. Cam chains are usually the first thing to fail in an engine, and mine may have sustained excessive wear way back when the original tensioners failed, and maybe more when the second set of oem tensioners failed. I also have no way of knowing if the TOC tensioners were ever adjusted properly, could have been a bit too tight or too loose.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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It's been a good bike.it's more than patience, probably don't have the heart to part it out

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