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See Grips

Both Grab-On and Pro Grip make grips with foam or rubber and chrome accents...they cost ALOT less than Kury...I like the rubber Progrips use...

Removing glued on grips:
If you have access to compressed air, sometimes it helps to inject air under the grip by placing the air nozzle right against the front edge. This will make sliding the grip off a bit easier. If you glued the grip in place sometimes heating the grip with a hairdryer or injecting warm/hot water under the grip softens the glue enough to where you can slide it off (Push, don't pull the grip off) If all else fails, Vince found out that Kurayakan does sell just a single replacement grip ..dianna
I used a hair dryer to warm up the grip and then a very thin bladed flat knife to help it along. That and a lot of patience.

Jason used a tiny flat headed screwdriver after we heated it up....I cheered him on while he said a few choice words now & then but we got it. :)

I like to install my grips with water as a lubricant and if they are tight enough they should stay put. Another option is to use cheap hair spray as a lubricant and glue (work fast because hair spray does not take long to try out). If you want to remove the grips later, hair spray will loosen up with water (if you can get it under the grip). When I installed Kuryakn ISO grips (goldwing model recommended by this group), the left grip was so lose I could spin it. I had read on this message board to use golf grip tape. I didn't have any so I just used electrical tape and it worked fine. The golf grip tape should improve the hold of the stock grip. Loran 1995 VN750 (Teal & Black)

Q: Took the stock grips off and was about to put he Kuryakyn #6241. First I noticed that the left side slides fairly easy, no much resistance. In addition, the left grip is over a 1/8'' short from the turn signal/high beam box. Should that be expected?
A: Mine's that way. I like it, but many members prefer the Goldwing model because it is a bit longer and gives you more grip room. Right one will not slide on as easily. You will need to sand, file, or dremel the ridges down for it to go on.

A: I used the Goldwing model and like it. I had to dremel the ridges off the throttle, and then sand quite a bit. I finally got the grip on without glue and couldn't get it off, so I left it alone and it's been fine.
Q: I put the 6180 Goldwing grips on. The l/h I used golf grip tape to shim it up. Before that is was very loose. Now good and tight. The r/h after cutting off the ridges from the throttle grip the r/h went on with out glue. I have had no problems . Phil 'Stargazer'
I have to agree. I looked a long time at other grips cause everyone it seemed was putting on the Kury grips, and I wanted something different. I put mine on about two months ago and I agree, they are very comfortable. I also put the throttle rocker on it, and man does it make it nice for those long rides. My only regret is that I didn't do it sooner. RB

From our files Section Files > Accessories >

ISO Grips installing per Uncle Gomer ISO Grip Installation Kuryakin makes two grips that will fit on the VN750: The Universals for 7/8" (part #6241, 5-3/4" long) are the recommended replacement, but the GoldWing grips will also fit (part #6180). These grips are 6- 1/4" long. That extra half inch is handy if you want to also install a throttle rocker. The length gets the rocker out of the way of your hand when not needed.

To removed the old grips - without just cutting them off - you need to first break the seal of the glue used at the factory. Sticking a butter knife or flat screwdriver between the chrome and rubber can do this, but be careful with your leverage. It's real easy to punch the end right through the rubber. After breaking the seal, you can work the grip off, just be prepared to use a LOT of elbow grease! One technique that can help is heat the grips with a blow dryer. This seems to 'loosen' the rubber and make it a little more pliable. You can use a lubricant (such as WD40), however you will need to make sure it is thoroughly cleaned before installing the new grips.

A better solution is to do what golfers do when changing the grips on their clubs. Squirt A LITTLE lighter fluid in between the rubber and handlebar. This provides lubrication, but cleans with relatively little residue (which may actually be useful in reinstallation - see below). WARNING! DON'T TRY TO USE THE BLOW DRYER TO HEAT A GRIP IF YOU USE THE LIGHTER FLUID!! OK, that's sort of a "duh", but I don't want anyone trying to sue me because they didn't figure this out.

Once the old grips are removed, clean any remaining glue or other residue of the bars. Kury advises using an emery cloth to both thoroughly clean the bars and scratch the surface to help the glue set up better. Before installing the new grips, note that the inside diameters are different. The grip for the throttle (right) side will have a slightly larger inside diameter to fit over the throttle sleeve (You know it'd be helpful if Kury would just go ahead and stamp and L and R on these!). You might also want to remove *one* of the hex screws holding the end cap in on each grip. This provides a small outlet for air to be pushed out during installation. Y

ou will also need to cut or grind off 8 little tabs on the throttle sleeve. The plastic tabs hold the stock grips in place but aren't needed for the ISO's. If you have matched up the right diameters, the clutch (left) side will go on smoothly. Place a little bit of glue on the handlebars (not on the grips). Place it mostly towards the end - sliding the grip on will spread it out. If you put too much too high, you'll wind up with excess squeezing out the top. The glue that comes with the grips sets up INSTANTLY, so if you use that, make sure you have your grip lines up the way you want it. You'll have about 5 seconds to adjust once the grip is slid on. There are a couple of other products out there (Scott's for one) that takes a little longer to set up and are more forgiving. However they say to allow 24 hours for these to set completely, during which you're advised not to ride. If you're in a hurry to get these on and take off... Kury says line the pads up to fit your hand (where your fingers rest) but I'm not sure how much that matters. I tried holding it in different postitions and couldn't detect any meaningful difference. It's probably a good idea to dry fit the grip (without glue) and try different positions.

Once you've found a position you like, make a little line with pencil on the grip and the turn signal box to use as a reference. On the throttle side, the fit is tighter. You may not want to try dry fitting as it will be heck to get back off, even without glue. In fact, you probably won't need to use glue at all on this side - NOTE that I am not recommending installing without glue (although that's what I did). Without glue, the potential exists that the throttle will slip while you're turning it. Again, don't want anyone suing me because they went to accelerate around an 18-wheeler only to have the throttle grip slip and leave them idling. If you do use glue, it's REALLY critical to be careful where and how much you put on. Too much glue (pushing out the top) or glue placed too close to the end can freeze the throttle sleeve in place. Not a good thing.

When installing the throttle side, you may want to call on the golfer's trick again and use A LITTLE lighter fluid inside the grip to lubricate and soften the rubber. The fluid apparently dries to form some sort of chemical bond between the rubber and metal. If you use the fluid, don't try to use glue as well. As you slide the throttle grip on, the tight fit will tend to push the little rubber things out. Go slow and make sure you check all the way around to ensure the rubber is not being pushed out of the chrome. If it does, back the grip off, reset the rubber, and start over. You will NOT be able to push it in place once the throttle is on. Finally, don't forget to put the hex screws back in if you took them out. Tighten everything and marvel at your sharp looking bike!
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