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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have trouble with your clutch being grabby instead of smooth in the friction zone. Mine seems to be more and more that way lately making it hard to do smooth starts. it also makes it interesting when maneuvering at slow speeds. I am in Atlanta so the weather is not amazingly cold here - I pretty much ride in the night/evenings commuting to and from work so its in the mid 30's -
I am running GTX 20/50 which has been in the bike for about a year perhaps. Today I went out to work on some slow speed bike handling skills and it about drove me nuts. It feels like it wants to be in or out with no middle ground.
 

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I'm here in Bama so about the same on the temps. My bike was doing the same thing until I went to Castrol 10/40. Never tried the 20/50. I would think that may be a little thick for temps this time of year. I tried the full synthetic oils and it made mine extremely rough on take off.
 

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20w50 is not really a good choice for temps under 80. I'd switch to a 10w40 and see if it helps... If not, you might need a new clutch, as it might be a warped or worn out plate(s).

Do make sure you clutch cable is adjusted properly of course....;)
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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Mine does it too in the cooler weather. X2 on the thickness of the oil and quite possibly the brand. Thinner oil is better in the cooler temps for bikes and cars. With mine I just let it warm up and work the clutch lever a few times. Not really sure if that makes a difference but it stops that ridiculous behavior after a few minutes of riding. I'm planning on trying Castrol in it next oil change. Good luck.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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DavesVulster
With mine I just let it warm up and work the clutch lever a few times.
x2 ... I use Synthetic 15-40 Delvac (Mobil 1) , start bike (No Choke), warm up 60 seconds, work the clutch lever 2-3 times.. never a clutch issue / no grabbing / all is normal.

Suggest 10-40 or 15-40 Oil... best solution to avoid clutch grabbing.
WilliamTech
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks
I will do an oil change this week and see if that doesn't correct the problem
I was thinking of using royal Purple max cycle 10/40
Also will check cable adjustment - are there guidelines or is it just till it feels right?
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Thanks
I will do an oil change this week and see if that doesn't correct the problem
I was thinking of using royal Purple max cycle 10/40
Also will check cable adjustment - are there guidelines or is it just till it feels right?
Basically, a nickel ($.05) thickness of free play at lever.
Search threads for clutch lever adjustment.
WilliamTech
 

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I just did an oil change with some "SuperTech" 10W-40 and this went away, even during the first couple of take-offs.

The oil isn't exactly anything special, it's just a basic non-energy conserving oil.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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I just did an oil change with some "SuperTech" 10W-40 and this went away, even during the first couple of take-offs.

The oil isn't exactly anything special, it's just a basic non-energy conserving oil.
thTanner


http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

The above link is a lengthy long (partial) education of Oils.
MC oils info starts one-half way through the article. After much research and reading this article, my choice of Oil is Synthetic Delvac 15-40.
Spend the time on researching quality oil for MC's... your bike will benefit greatly.
Also, brand of oil filter choice is also crucial.
Good Luck
WilliamTech
:smiley_th
 

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I would use 10w40 or 15w40 at 40 degrees or below. Above 40 degrees, I would use 20w50. The problem with using heavier oil when it is really cold is mostly a problem when starting a cold engine. If the engine temp is 30 degrees, the 20w50 oil is going to be pretty thick, probably enough to make the clutch drag. If you stored the bike in a heated garage, or had an engine heater to keep the oil warm, this would not be a problem. Once warmed up, 20w50 oil is plenty thin enough to not be a problem. The temp outside may be cold, but if the engine is hot, so is the oil. The engine needs to be warmed up for some time in 30 degree weather. Again, I recommend warming it up on the centerstand until the needle on the temp gauge reaches the second mark from the left. Once you take off, it may drop below that mark, bit that is coolant temperature, not oil temperature. It sure would be nice if the Vulcan had an oil temp gauge. They are far more accurate in determining actual engine temperature than a coolant temp gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well - today I picked up some mobile 1 10/40 4T oil from our local Oreilly's but I for got to grab a filter:doh:
So I will head back over tomorrow before I get to make the switch. Today when the weather was warm - High 50's to 60 something - the bike seemed to warm up a little bit quicker and the shifting was quite a bit smoother after riding about 4 miles or so. Here's to hoping the new oil will do the trick for good.
 

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Hopefully it will, but there is a chance the clutch friction plates have swollen. My clutch started failing to completely disengage a few months ago. After making sure the cable was good, lubricated, and adjusted properly, and the arm on the front bevel gearcase was on right, I pulled the clutch out. I found the springs and steel plates were fine, but the friction plates, while not showing any signs of excessive wear, were actually thicker than spec in several spots on each plate. I've never seen this happen before. Anyway, I sanded the metal plates to get any glazing off them, and replaced the friction plates with EBC plates from DK. That did it, the clutch worked perfectly again, and is still working fine.

It had gotten so bad it would not shift at all, fortunately I was not far from home. It would creep forward with the clutch lever all the way in while in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Last week I got a chance to change the oil and adjust the clutch - all the problems went away after a few miles :) it shifts like a new bike now Yee-ha!
I am hoping to have time to lube the splines next week - I can't remember how often it should be done - but it's been a few thousand miles at least.
 

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I am hoping to have time to lube the splines next week - I can't remember how often it should be done - but it's been a few thousand miles at least.
I think I read around every 10k miles if you use good Moly 60, but I think I am just going to do it every other oil change to be safe myself.
 

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I do mine every 10,000 miles. I have used a variety of lubricants, including non moly Bel Ray waterproof grease, and never had any problems. I am not recommending anything but at least 60% moly. I now use Guard Dog 570, which is 73% moly, but it is not cheap. I ordered it online. It was almost $50 for 8oz, including shipping, but that should be enough to do the splines quite a few times. I do all the splines on mine, including the U joint splines and the splines where the wheel meshes with the final drive gearcase.


I was told by a BMW owner that by using at least 60% moly paste, you did not need to lube the splines more than every 30,000 miles, and if true, that would be great. I could extend the spline lube thing out until time to replace the rear tire. But the Vulcan is not a BMW, and considering the consequences, I'm not taking any chances.

Many '80s Goldwing 1100s and 1200s went over 100,000 miles with no spline maintenance, but they have a whole different design, where the rear splines, the ones most prone to wear, are lubricated by the final drive gearcase oil, and there is an oil seal to keep the oil from leaking out of the gearcase and into the swingarm. I wish Kawasaki had done it this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
By the way after a few weeks of riding, as a bonus, with the new oil I have no more coffee grinding at all it's all smooth silent shifting :)
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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Good deal! :smiley_th
 

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I still recommend using 20w50 oil above 70 degrees. It will give better protection than 10w40, especially the bearings, which really take a pounding in a single crankpin v-twin. That is why it is the only oil recommended for Harleys at any temperature. Of course, since Harleys have a dry clutch, you don't have a problem there.

As for the "coffee grinder" sound, and clutch grabbiness when cold, mine has always had that, even after replacing the friction discs. But, it always goes away if you let the engine warm up properly before taking off. My guess is because by the time the engine is warmed up the oil is noticeably thinner, and drains out of the clutch basket faster, which is what everybody says causes it in the first place. Some even drill holes in the clutch basket to try and stop the noise. If mine still did this after being warmed up, I would also be looking for a cure. But since I am a big believer in warming up the engine before putting a load on it, I don't have that problem. Only time I've noticed it is a few times I did take off slowly down a residential street before the engine had completely warmed up, so I know they are related.
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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I think you're probably right about the reason for the grabbing, however even though I let my bike warm up for several minutes before taking off it still does it. It's another engineering oversight IMO. You shouldn't have to baby a bike to that extent and should be able to take off right away if needed. Not that I'm against letting it warm up - no brainer, it's good practice. I think Knifemaker had good results with the kevlar discs but maybe he'll comment about it. I wanted to run the thicker 20-50 oil but I think it'll make the grabbing worse. A clutch is in my V's future but other things must come first.
 
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