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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to everyone for their contributions to the knowledge here I've got the bike running fairly well for an old girl. around town and less than 60 mph is nearly flawless operation. the power is improved at all rpms but let me start from the beginning. my wife rode this bike for two years and we never did much to it since buying it she said it had issues at highway speed. I did the fuel cap cleaning for poogs and she said there was some improvement. we also gapped and checked plugs and did some seafoam. mild improvements she said. I got the bike and my analysis was there was a bog at 4500-5500 rpm and as long as I got above that quickly and shifted to 5th I could go just fine from 65-85mph. and I continued the sea foam the bog got better but not completely gone.

this fall I pulled the carbs and cleaned and checked everything and replaced the vac petcock with a tw200. the power increase was immediate and noticeable and no bog so I thought everything was great, however after beating the bike through a few corners it begins to hesitate and on the highway it will go fine right to 75 but then after 60-80 seconds begins to miss and lose power and cant maintain 55 barely down shifting does nothing and opening the gas cap does nothing

I have so far:
cleaned the carbs
replaced petcock
cleaned the tank vent
checked the bowl vents (45 deg, in right ear)
cleaned air filters
checked carb boots (had a slight leak gone now no change)
replaced plugs
checked coil wires
checked grounds
checked battery connections
cleaned ignition contacts
wiggled key and turned on/off no change
rode with tank open

when it occurs it will cut in and out and have full power for a split second, almost causing a buck, rolling off and on the throttle doesn't help. it sounds like a dead cylinder or a decel almost.

even though I have cleaned the tank vent and it seems to flow, when I open the cap, I hear a hiss briefly, like it is sucking in air, but I don't think its related because the problem is present when the cap is open and if I ride her gently around at 35-45 mph she goes great with no apparent problem for many miles and the tank vents fine. this may be electrical but it could be a carb issue I will post in both maybe?? thanks for any insights guys!
 

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Concert connoisseur
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Discussion Starter #5
yup already checked that, twice, I will triple check I guess, sometimes I'm sure it's fuel and others I swear it's electrical from the way it cuts in and out, in a few seconds it can cut in and out several times, there seems to be full power, but only lasts for a fraction of a second, it feels like the bike is on one cylinder 90% of the time and it seems to come on and go away totally and quickly after beating through a few corners or highway for 1 min or so...
 

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Crowley
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Try to wiggle your key next time. While riding, turn it ever so slightly to the right.

Also, put that carb vent tube on the nipple under your gas tank. It does best there.

If it was electrical, you could tell by the tachometer slamming down to 0rpm
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Hehe he said puck
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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If it is the ignition switch it could be a loose connection causing intermittent cut outs. The tach may recover fast enough it would barely jump as its firing/missing. Ask me how I know lol but it seems like this could be elsewhere as it only happens at speed correct? Ever notice any difference while turning? Another issue could be float levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
so I checked all hoses and bowl vents etc. all ok I went for a ride today and the bike ran like crap pretty much the whole day. it runs very well up to 55 mph above that and it gets starved for fuel, I'm pretty sure there is something going on with the slider diaphragms in the carbs, I think they are original and the bike will get stumbley accelerating at lower speeds at times as well I'm pulling the carbs again and rechecking/re-cleaning everything and replacing the diaphragms i'll let you guys know how it turns out, she needs to go on a highway and medium distance ride in mid may so I need to get this ironed out thanks for all the advice

its definitely not the ignition switch I was able to get it to 55 then 57 then 60 then 62 if I accelerate slowly and keep the air fuel ratio steady the bowls will stay barely full it seems because if I rip into it she falls flat after a few seconds but if I keep it steady I can do almost 65mph on a semi flat stretch, up hills not so much can barely hold 50 at full twist
:rockon:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok so I broke down yesterday and in doing so I figured out three problems: the diaphrams stick and possibly leak the float needle on the rear carb sticks and fuel overflows and the volt reg was bolted on with one bolt loosely, and the connector was corroded one wire was basically broken, i have three questions for you guys

How should i test my stator while im in there?

I have three options for a regulator
Ricks motorsport, electrosport, or arrowhead which is recommended and nor comes with the connector?

Where can a connector be located if not included?
 

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Follow the sticky post for stator test. Check ohms on the leads, continuity to ground (should be none), check AC volts. All with the three stator bullet connectors disconnected, check the bullet connectors too.

I would recommend a MOSFET type r/r. I used the Shindengen kit from Roadstercycle via Ebay, but you can also order from his website. Comes with all the wires, plugs, fuse or circuit breaker (your choice). With the TPE stator and this kit, I get 14.5v at cold idle. Last time I looked, there was another seller with the same kit, in Kansas maybe, Roadstercycle is in California.

MOSFET - Metal-Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor

A simple homemade aluminum bracket (two bends and two 8mm holes) mounted the r/r under the left side cover, out of sight and away from the exhaust.
 

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Follow the sticky post for stator test. Check ohms on the leads, continuity to ground (should be none), check AC volts. All with the three stator bullet connectors disconnected, check the bullet connectors too.

I would recommend a MOSFET type r/r. I used the Shindengen kit from Roadstercycle via Ebay, but you can also order from his website. Comes with all the wires, plugs, fuse or circuit breaker (your choice). With the TPE stator and this kit, I get 14.5v at cold idle. Last time I looked, there was another seller with the same kit, in Kansas maybe, Roadstercycle is in California.

MOSFET - Metal-Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor

A simple homemade aluminum bracket (two bends and two 8mm holes) mounted the r/r under the left side cover, out of sight and away from the exhaust.
+1

here is another source for a MOSFET setup:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380704480069?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
thats the one I used, and works beautifully. that vendor was very fast on shipping, answering questions, ect. even proactively found I mistakenly orded 2 of them and contacted me to clarify/correct the issue!
 

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+1

here is another source for a MOSFET setup:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380704480069?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
thats the one I used, and works beautifully. that vendor was very fast on shipping, answering questions, ect. even proactively found I mistakenly orded 2 of them and contacted me to clarify/correct the issue!
+1 :) That's the other one. In Missouri, not Kansas.

The guy at Roadstercycle was also very helpful on the phone and even extended my warranty since I bought it in Winter, installed in the Spring. Maybe those two are relatives? ;)
 

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maybe, maybe even the same person doing business under different names (I see that a lot in my part searches for my work).

a few weeks after I installed my setup, I inquired about getting a set of connector ends for the stator connector (I was going to replace the sub standard wiring which I didn't do before, due to time crunch). he was very polite and said that he cant sell the ends separately. again, very fast in response, if I recall, less than 3 hrs!. Since he sells the connector (with ends) separately from the kit, I went that route (I admit, was hoping to save some $, but not afraid to spend them if I really need to).

Also, as I previously mentioned, was very fast in answering questions. one specifically was about mounting the R/R fully exposed to weather (I even told him type of bike, and that I was thinking about mounting it in front of the radiator). reply was 'go for it, I know of several who have done it on other bikes with no problems'. the connectors are water resistant, if not water proof, and the R/R is sealed.

Also, on my mistake of double ordering, he caught it within 1 hr of purchase. asked if I really wanted 2, I explained that I thought 1st try on payment didn't go thru, he explained it happens once in a while, but it was approved, and immediately canceled the 2nd order and refunded the $.

I *WILL* continue to business with that vendor if I ever need an item he carries.
 

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Those connectors are fairly watertight at least, with the grommets for each wire, rubber gaskets on the front side and outside edge.

I forget why I had called Roadster, but I know my question was answered and we talked quite a while, was in no hurry, then extended the warranty. Only thing, he never left feedback on the ebay purchase :) . Probably a busy dude, he's a helicopter mechanic and cycle builder.

In case anyone has doubts about wiring the MOSFET, here's an easy diagram:
http://www.roadstercycle.com/Easy Mosfet Install.htm
The yellow headlight relay wire gets hooked to any one of the three stator leads, or you can do the blue wire bypass (move the spade connector in the plug) and eliminate that connection.

To answer a question Orlando asked, the stock replacement plugs have been found, but were said to be pricey depending where they were found. I do recall one post saying they got one at a fair price. I believe they were called Molex connectors.
 

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the stock connectors for the JB, R/R and some other are molex. molex is a brand, and there are hundreds if not thousands of different sizes, shapes, ect.
D'oh! Thought it was a style for that particular plug, .. Wrong! sorry ... thanks MTB

I remember that other poster was aggravated trying to find one. Best bet is probably look for a decent used one.

Hmm, well, I'm not really using my stock r/r plug. Pretty sure it's still on the bike with the stock r/r. lol :) Trying to remember if I even deadheaded those wires?!! WTH did I do?!! :confused:
 
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