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1992 Vulcan 750
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
Was thinking for the longest time about getting some new pipes but all here recommend removing the goats belly. Is it easy and what are the steps?


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from the Yahoo vn750 forum:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VN750/files/Degoat with stock mufflers file


The goats belly (premuffler)sits under the bike and is attached between the header pipes and the stock mufflers. It sits just below the R/R and can be a harmful heat source to the R/R. Removing the goats belly can done easily and for less then $20.
This is how I did mine:

These parts can be bought at any parts store but I got mine at Autozone. Here is what you need:

(2) 1 3/4" flexible exhaust tubing part # 17031

(2) packages of Victor muffler bandage part # V805

optional if needed- High-Temp red RTV silicone part # 26BR (can be bought at Wal-Mart)

(1) U-clamp (this should be included in the box of flexible tubing so check first before you buy one)

Save all four stock exhaust clamps

Now it's time to get started.

Remove the heat shields on both sides. Loosen the clamps on the mufflers. Remove each muffler by removing the mount bolt and twisting and pulling the muffler until it comes off. Set mufflers aside.

Now loosen the clamps on the header pipes. Remove the premuffler mount bolts. Remove the premuffler from the headers. I didn't need to remove the header pipes to do this but if you need to you will want to replace the gasket at the head.

Now all you should have left is the headers attached to the engine. Set aside the (4) stock clamps.

Now it's time to put it back together without the premuffler.

Mount the mufflers back on the bike. Measure the distance between inside of the muffler inlet where the tubing will bottom out, to the header where you want the tubing to end. Before cutting the exhaust tubing make sure it is compressed and not extented. This will make sure you have enough tubing and it won't be too short at the end.

The measurements will be different for each side so measure and cut each side separately.

Remove the mufflers form the bike. Bend the tabs of the muffler inlet out a little so the tubing will go in easier. Using the Muffler Bandage, wrap it around the tubing twice and cut. Now peel away a little of the film on the bandage that will need to be removed later to expose the sticky portion.
Using a hair dryer, heat up the end of the tubing that you are going to put the bandage on. Peel the film off the tape and wrap around the heated tube.

With the bandage on the tube it is going to be a tight fit getting the tube in the muffler inlet. Make sure the tabs are bent out enough so it doesn't rip the bandage when installing.

To install the tubing in the muffler I put the outlet of the muffler on a rug so it doesn't get damaged. I slid the tubing in the muffler as far as I could. I used a piece of wood and a hammer on the tubing end to tap the tubing in until it bottomed out. When you are done look inside the tubing and see if you can see any daylight. If you can then it is not in all the way. If it looks dark then you are bottomed out and will get a good seal.

Once you have the tubing installed on both muffler don't put the clamps on yet.

Mount the mufflers and insert the headers into the tubing. Now mark on the headers where the tubing ends. Remove the mufflers.

Using the muffler bandage, wrap it around the header pipe twice and cut. Using a hair dryer to heat up the header pipe install the bandage the same way you did on the tubing for the mufflers. Make sure you put the tape on about 1/2" from your mark so it will stick out the end of the tubing when installed.

Now it's time to permanantly install the mufflers. Slide one of the stock clamps over each tube and onto the muffler inlet tabs. Do not tighten.

Slide the tubing over the header pipes being careful not to rip the bandage. Mount the mufflers.

Take the U-clamp and put it in position on the left header pipe but do not tighten.

On the right header pipe you will need to use a stock clamp with a shim. The header pipe sits too close to the frame and a U-clamp won't fit, plus the heat shield won't go on with a U-clamp there. As a shim I used the left over stock clamp and cut the ends off of it. Put the shim in position with the stock clamp over it but do not tighten.

Everything should now be in place and the clamps ready to tighten. Install the heat shields and check the clamps positioning. Since you are using flexible tubing check the tilt of the mufflers to make sure it looks right with the shields.

When the clamp positioning and the muffler tilt is correct snug up the clamps so they will now stay in position. Remove the heat shields and tighten all the clamps.

The mod is now complete and it is time to test for leaks. Start the engine. Before things get too hot feel around the joints for leaks. To fix leaks you may just need to retighten a clamp or use the high temp silicone to fill in the gap. Use the silicone as directed.

Note: The Muffler Bandage will start smoking. This is normal and will go away once the bandage has gone through the heating process which will give it a permanant seal and bond.

When you are satisfied that there are no leaks, install the heat shields and enjoy your new louder deeper sound!

Note: After each of the next few rides, let the bike cool off then check the clamps for tightness. They tend to loosen up.


1992 Vulcan 750
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Red Baron,
I hope I can handle this as a rookie lol
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