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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to get an '86 running again after inheriting it from a friend that let it sit for 2 years +. I've been told that as rusty as the tank was, that rebuilding the carbs is going to be definately needed. I acid washed and coated the tank...looks good. Started to remove the thermostat housing so I can get the carbs out, and noticed when I pulled the hoses that they are VERY rusty inside. Is this a sign of other major problems? Also, I can't seem to figure out how to remove the filler neck, I removed the screw that holds it to the frame, the hose, and it seems to be very tightly attatched.

I have 2 service manuals, and neither one mentions the "rust" problem in the hoses. They feel fine, flexible, but not soft or cracked anywhere.

The problem he had with it was that it kept stalling, but would restart easily after a few minutes, but would stall again.

Here's what I found so far, 1 bad spark plug wire, rt side front cyl, the wire is loose from the boot. Tank rusted beyond belief.(fixed) fuel shutoff leaked. (rebuilt) Rust in coolant hoses ( ? ) Got a new battery. plugs are fouled, but I'm not sure that's not from sitting ( bought new plugs) Are there any other suggestions about removing the thermostat housing and filler tube? Any other thoughts about what else I should look at/fix? Any other thoughts on what his original problems were?
I love a project, but I might not even get to ride this year if I keep finding more problems.

Thanks
Bob
 

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Rust in the hoses...hummm. i know the block is aluminum, but dunno bout the radiator. What i would do is replace hoses if needed, replace the thermostat if needed (i think you can use a reg./non kawa thermostat) just get the right size and temp. then i would do a good flush. That should clear up any rust build up. then you should be good. just as your running the flush look for any leaks.
The stalling problem sounds like a carb issue more then likely. We need more details I.E. stall at idle, stall at high/low rmp under load ect. Your gonna need that carb cleaning/ maybe rebuild. that should fix that prob. let us know if it doesnt. Other thing is to check the splines ($$$$) repair, make sure its well lubed and not too warn. Some good moly will do it. Might as well do a full service (look in your MOM and it will tell u what all to do, I.E. lube all cables, oil and ect.)
 

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you can flush the cooling system with a mild acid (lime away and water) but you would have to remove the thermostat, and 2 temp sensors (one turns on the fan, the other is used to drive the temp gauge). after running for a couple of minutes, let set for a couple of hours and flush the cooling system throughly with a hose to make sure all the crud is out. Drain the water and use distilled water and coolant.

If you don't want to do the acid, you can still do the flush using a hose with the thermostat removed and hook up the garden hose to where one of the hoses would hook up to the thermostat
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hizzo3 said:
Other thing is to check the splines ($$$$) repair,[/QUOTE
Most of my experience is working on old boat motors, this is probably a stupid question, but what are the splines?

As far as the stalling issue, he just told me after 5 minutes or so, while he was riding, it acted like it wasn't getting any gas, and would die.

My guess was a plugged vent line in the fuel tank cap. It was in really bad shape, but I took it apart and cleaned it in CLR. Haven't tried to start it since I've done the repairs so far, I wanted to tackle the carbs first.

Just looked at it again, and still can't figure out how to get filler neck off. removed screw and hose, and it feels as securly fastened as it did with the screw and hoses attatched.
 

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The splines are on the drive shaft, where it joins up with the rear drive unit.
You need to remove the rear tire to do, but a must to make sure it is ok.
 

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*As far as the stalling issue, he just told me after 5 minutes or so, while he was riding, it acted like it wasn't getting any gas, and would die.**

Just for reference, that's about how long the bike will run after you turn off the gas. Sounds like rust partially clogging the pickup tube in the tank. Did he say how long it had to sit before it would start again?
 

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to check the rear splines, you have to remove the tire AND the final drive (what the lower left shock is mounted to). After removing the tire and left shock, remove the 4 bolts holding on the final drive. If you don't plan on changing the final drive oil, take care on how you set the final drive so the oil will not leak out the upper vent.

BTW, it is called a prop shaft
 

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Discussion Starter #8
He didn't say exactly how long it had to set, just that it had to "cool down" for a while, then would start right up again.

The fuel cap was awful, it was white and crusty, I completely took apart anything that I could, and cleaned it up with CLR ( in case the vent was clogged) The fuel ( probably just from sitting so long) that was left in the tank was blood red and even though it was still liquid,was red, and more the consistancy of whole milk than of gas. I drained it, cleaned the tank and the fuel filter. Then I rebuilt the petcock with all new parts... all except the filter, which would require replacing the whole petcock. I got it clean enough that you can see through it.

I'm still tearing parts off to get to the carbs.... working a lot of hours, so only have 1/2 hour or so in the evenings to work on it before it gets dark ( I have it under a cover..... don't have a garage....) Weekends are spent out of town, so this may take me all summer.

Thanks
Bob
 
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