Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've got an oil leak at the generator cover where the stator wires come through. This situation came with the bike when I purchased it a month ago, and I've attempted to plug the leak with Permatex on top of the previous owner's pile of attempted repair goo. With continued failure to stop the leak, I decided to clean everything off and start from scratch. What I found underneath has me a little confused.

Where I was expecting three wires, there are actually a total of seven. 3 black wires together, then a bundle of four (can't tell their colors) in a tube. There appears to be no hint of a grommet.

Also, the shape of the cutout doesn't seem to match the grommet on the used stator I picked up to send to TPE. Anybody know what's going on here?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
There's three stator wires, normally solid yellow.

Four wires - one pair to each pickup coil for the ignition.

I'm pretty sure TPE will send the right grommet with the new stator (let them know you need it), been a while since I did mine and haven't found the pictures yet. Recall my grommet being double what's on your stator, with two holes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Okay,great. Didn't realize the ignition pickups routed through there. Do they have a separate grommet to route through?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
Okay,great. Didn't realize the ignition pickups routed through there. Do they have a separate grommet to route through?
Couldn't find my pics of the new stator, so I went to look at the bike. Still can't tell if that's one grommet or two. I'll try to find those pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. Either my spare stator has the wrong grommet (or isn't even from a 750) or I'm also missing a grommet on the ignition wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
There's definitely a grommet on the pickup harness in the parts diagram.
Somebody royally screwed this thing up. No grommet on either harness?!?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
Found the pics of the new stator in the case, but they don't show the grommet well enough. Now I'm thinking there were two grommets, stacked.

The stator wires from TPE were solid white.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I'm definitely missing the second grommet. I'll need to find a source for the pickup grommet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
There are two separate grommets, one for the three yellow stator wires, and one for the pickup coil wires. There are 2 pickups, one for each cylinder, with 2 wires each. The grommets go into the slot side by side. Mine leaked just a little for several years before the stator finally failed. For a long time I just stuck a piece of a paper towel down into one of the crannies below the leak to soak up the oil. I finally cleaned off all the oil around the grommets with carb cleaner, and sealed the leak with silicone. That lasted until the stator failed. While I had it apart to replace the stator, I used a lot of Permatex Ultra Black RTV around the grommets while putting everything back together, and so far after a couple hundred miles it does not leak.

I also have the TPE stator, and it came with connectors on it. But I cut them off, and soldered the wires together, put heat shrink tubing on the connections, then put both the stator wire and pickup wires in a single piece of split plastic conduit. I rerouted the wires on top of the engine case rather than under, like it came stock.

One thing I noticed about the TPE stator that's different from stock is the wires are black instead of yellow, they are a LOT stiffer, and the insulation is virtually heatproof. My method of stripping wires to avoid breaking any strands has long been to use a lighter to melt the insulation, then pull it off the wire between my thumb and forefinger. With the yellow wires this worked easily, but the black wires from the stator were a real PITA. The insulation simply would not soften. I finally did manage to get it off the 3 wires a little bit at the time, after pretty much using up a new disposable lighter. Hopefully this means the TPE stator will be a bit more heat resistant than the stock one. I'm still convinced that engine heat rather than high electrical resistance is what is killing the stators.

As far as a replacement grommet, they are not available from Kawasaki. They are a part of the pickup coil wiring harness, and are molded onto the wires. You will need to find some high temp rubber and make one. Did you find any pieces of it in the engine? Most likely the heat baked it, and it just crumbled. That also may be what's happening to the balancer dampers. The bottom end of this engine seems to run really hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
There are two separate grommets, one for the three yellow stator wires, and one for the pickup coil wires. There are 2 pickups, one for each cylinder, with 2 wires each. The grommets go into the slot side by side. Mine leaked just a little for several years before the stator finally failed. For a long time I just stuck a piece of a paper towel down into one of the crannies below the leak to soak up the oil. I finally cleaned off all the oil around the grommets with carb cleaner, and sealed the leak with silicone. That lasted until the stator failed. While I had it apart to replace the stator, I used a lot of Permatex Ultra Black RTV around the grommets while putting everything back together, and so far after a couple hundred miles it does not leak.

I also have the TPE stator, and it came with connectors on it. But I cut them off, and soldered the wires together, put heat shrink tubing on the connections, then put both the stator wire and pickup wires in a single piece of split plastic conduit. I rerouted the wires on top of the engine case rather than under, like it came stock.

One thing I noticed about the TPE stator that's different from stock is the wires are black instead of yellow, they are a LOT stiffer, and the insulation is virtually heatproof. My method of stripping wires to avoid breaking any strands has long been to use a lighter to melt the insulation, then pull it off the wire between my thumb and forefinger. With the yellow wires this worked easily, but the black wires from the stator were a real PITA. The insulation simply would not soften. I finally did manage to get it off the 3 wires a little bit at the time, after pretty much using up a new disposable lighter. Hopefully this means the TPE stator will be a bit more heat resistant than the stock one. I'm still convinced that engine heat rather than high electrical resistance is what is killing the stators.

As far as a replacement grommet, they are not available from Kawasaki. They are a part of the pickup coil wiring harness, and are molded onto the wires. You will need to find some high temp rubber and make one. Did you find any pieces of it in the engine? Most likely the heat baked it, and it just crumbled. That also may be what's happening to the balancer dampers. The bottom end of this engine seems to run really hot.
There was no sign of any debris, rubber or otherwise, in the oil when I changed it. That said, I have no idea how much time passed between when the previous owner had the stator replaced and I purchased the bike. That there is no hint of any grommet on either the stator or ignition pulser wires makes me wonder if whoever replaced the stator removed them for some inexplicable and misguided reason.
I'll keep an eye out for a pickup coil set. There's one person on eBay right now selling a used stator and pickup coil for a bit under $50, and both appear to have intact grommets. Probably worth grabbing. I can carefully pull the pickup grommet and use it when I swap the stator in a couple of months. Might be a little 'interesting' to cut the grommet off the pick up wires without too much damage.

Alternatively...
Here's a generator cover/stator/pick up set from a VN700. I know there are minimal differences between the two models. Other than the paint color, does anybody know for sure if the parts are compatible? For $63 that would give me a spare of everything and I can pre-cut the cover for a tuxedo mod.
1985 Kawasaki Vulcan VN700A VN700 VN 700 Stator Coil Coils Cover Engine Motor | eBay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
Alternatively...
Here's a generator cover/stator/pick up set from a VN700. I know there are minimal differences between the two models. Other than the paint color, does anybody know for sure if the parts are compatible? For $63 that would give me a spare of everything and I can pre-cut the cover for a tuxedo mod.
1985 Kawasaki Vulcan VN700A VN700 VN 700 Stator Coil Coils Cover Engine Motor | eBay
That's an option for you, but that whole piece looks abused inside and out. Looks like the bike met it's end slogging through mud. At least two of the cover screws have stripped heads.

A 1985 700 is probably going to have the oldest rubber grommets you can find, but the parts do interchange.

If you have a couple of months, you might keep watching ebay, and check here too.

Also, I kinda recall somebody here finding new grommets somewhere.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,570 Posts
and if I was selling that part, I would at least clean it up first.. hell, its got gasket pieces stuck to it, the previously mentioned mud/dirt, and to be honest, it looks like it was in a fire on the one side
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
and if I was selling that part, I would at least clean it up first.. hell, its got gasket pieces stuck to it, the previously mentioned mud/dirt, and to be honest, it looks like it was in a fire on the one side
Yup, never got why people ask good money for parts, but won't clean them up first.

Balancer has been rubbing the case, and I can't tell if the shifter shaft hole is broken out/ground off or if that's grease and gasket on there.

Bet the ole girl has been nice n hot several times.
 

·
FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
Joined
·
16,093 Posts
LayzEE
 

·
FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
Joined
·
16,093 Posts
If it doesn't work send back you pay shipping but I'll give you your money back so I can sell it again.yup I'd buy it;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
I wouldn't mess with that part. It also appears that the plastic conduit that the wires go in is broken around the grommet. There are seven wires total, but there are only two coming out of the cover. The 3 yellow wires from the stator are in one on them, and the 4 pickup coil wires are in the other. I'm 99% sure the reason mine was leaking is because the plastic cover on the pickup coil wires was cracked where it makes a sharp turn as it comes through the cover. The grommets are molded around the plastic covers, not the actual wires themselves. It should be possible for oil to leak between the cover and actual wires.

The reason I cut the connectors off the stator wires is because I had cut the connecters out years ago. For some reason (I believe high resistance at the connectors) they were burned. I noticed the yellow wires were hardened and brown on both sides of the three connectors. When I tried to take the connectors apart, a couple of the stator wires broke off. If you cut the connectors off, make sure you get a good solid low resistance connection on the stator wires. I recommend soldering them. I first connected mine with wire nuts to make sure it was charging before soldering them.

I could tell a difference between the grommet that came on my new stator/wires, and the old one on the pickup coil wires. The new one was much softer. New, they shouldn't need any sealant, just squishing the two rubber grommets together should provide an oil tight seal. I used sealer because the grommet on the pickup coil wires had hardened (and for that matter, so had the wires themselves, but they hadn't cracked) The high price on a whole new pickup coil assembly and the high miles on my bike made me decide against replacing them.

Kawasaki does not make things easy. I had a dealer service manager tell me straight out that the Vulcan 750 "wasn't meant to be worked on" But where there is a will there is usually a way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all the suggestions to date. Got the motor pulled yesterday, with maybe four hours of casual work invested. If I had to do it a second time, it could probably be done in half the time since I'd actually have a plan for exactly what needed to come out and the sequence. It's really not a bad job at all, particularly with the ear shave already complete. While it's out I'll do a tux mod to save some effort for next time. Since I'll probably be waiting several more weeks for the TPE rewind to come in, I'll occupy the time with installing a MOSFET regulator, drilling the clutch basket, and modifying the generator cover for gcextreme's tuxmod plate.

Here's a list of the parts I'll be ordering:
92075-1748 Damper gear
92075-1747 Dampers
92055-1319 Outer generator cover o-ring
11060-1119 Exhaust crush gaskets
92055-109 Outer generator cover screw o-rings
11060-1089 Generator Cover gasket
11060-1086 Front bevel gear gasket
92051-005 Gear shifter oil seal
11060-1088 Clutch outside cover gasket
11060-1090 Clutch cover gasket
92055-1308 Coolant transfer pipe o-rings (clutch cover)
670B2014 Cooling system pipe o rings
671B2525 Cooling system pipe o rings

That should cover all gaskets for the stator replacement, components for the damper replacement, and replacing all o-rings in the cooling system. Anything missing from the list, or other things I should take a look at while I've got access and time?
 

·
FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
Joined
·
16,093 Posts
I wouldn't mess with that part. It also appears that the plastic conduit that the wires go in is broken around the grommet. There are seven wires total, but there are only two coming out of the cover. The 3 yellow wires from the stator are in one on them, and the 4 pickup coil wires are in the other. I'm 99% sure the reason mine was leaking is because the plastic cover on the pickup coil wires was cracked where it makes a sharp turn as it comes through the cover. The grommets are molded around the plastic covers, not the actual wires themselves. It should be possible for oil to leak between the cover and actual wires.

The reason I cut the connectors off the stator wires is because I had cut the connecters out years ago. For some reason (I believe high resistance at the connectors) they were burned. I noticed the yellow wires were hardened and brown on both sides of the three connectors. When I tried to take the connectors apart, a couple of the stator wires broke off. If you cut the connectors off, make sure you get a good solid low resistance connection on the stator wires. I recommend soldering them. I first connected mine with wire nuts to make sure it was charging before soldering them.

I could tell a difference between the grommet that came on my new stator/wires, and the old one on the pickup coil wires. The new one was much softer. New, they shouldn't need any sealant, just squishing the two rubber grommets together should provide an oil tight seal. I used sealer because the grommet on the pickup coil wires had hardened (and for that matter, so had the wires themselves, but they hadn't cracked) The high price on a whole new pickup coil assembly and the high miles on my bike made me decide against replacing them.

Kawasaki does not make things easy. I had a dealer service manager tell me straight out that the Vulcan 750 "wasn't meant to be worked on" But where there is a will there is usually a way.
"Finely engineered machine";)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
parts I'll be ordering:
92075-1748 Damper gear
You shouldn't need that part unless it has been grinding the case, otherwise it really doesn't wear. I'd guess it's pretty pricey.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top