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Discussion Starter #1
So i have been having a problem with my gas cap. The key was getting very hard to turn. So i disasembled the lock and loubed it with graphite. The locked worked amazing, for about a month. Tonight I broke the key off trying to open the tank. i got a spare and limped it home, but i am out of gas. My question is, am I lubing it with the proper stuff????? My bike sits outside, covered most of the time. I was afriad to use andthing that might drip into the gas tank. Anybody had this problem?????? Any insight???? anything would help as I plan to try to solve this ASAP. Thanks!
 

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So i have been having a problem with my gas cap. The key was getting very hard to turn. So i disasembled the lock and loubed it with graphite. The locked worked amazing, for about a month. Tonight I broke the key off trying to open the tank. i got a spare and limped it home, but i am out of gas. My question is, am I lubing it with the proper stuff????? My bike sits outside, covered most of the time. I was afriad to use andthing that might drip into the gas tank. Anybody had this problem?????? Any insight???? anything would help as I plan to try to solve this ASAP. Thanks!
I've always used graphite with good results. However, a member on this forum is a locksmith and has an even better alternative. Search the forum for 'graphite' and you will eventually find the thread in which the better product is mentioned.

Also, the gas cap has 5 springs which help seal the cap to the tank. The key/lock cylinder might be just fine, but the locking tab might be dragging due to the springs (this is normal, don't try to change it). Always push the gas cap down (compressing the springs) before turning the key. This should push the locking tab into the tank slightly, allowing it to move freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, i searched before I asked. To no avail. There is not much on it here. This is why I asked.
 

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Old Twistie Sticks Rider
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Don't know about a gas cap lock, but I have always used Lock-Ease on other locks...
It is a colodial graphite for that purpose, I also used to burnish it into rifle barrel bores, especially when using coated bullets... Don't see how a bit of lube could hurt the gas either...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I got some Lock Ease. The key is turning but not all the way. Seems like the mechanism is tight. Anyone know a trick to getting the gas tank open????? If i could just get it open I could fix it!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, i figured it out. There is a Pin in the Hinge of the gas cap. With a small screwdriver I drove the pin out of the hinge and Presto, the cap is off. What I did was dis assemble the locking maechanism. I then used an SOS pad and so fine grit sandpaper to remove any corrosion from the parts. I then put it back together piece by piece being careful to put a thin coat of Lock-Ease on each part. After assembly, It works like brand new!!!!! Even without pushing down on the gas cap the lock opens EASILY!!!! I did this a few months ago with graphite powder, except i didnt clean the parts as well. I am hoping that the Lock-Ease will last a little longer. It is very easy to do and if anyone has a lock that is not easy to turn this is the way to go.
 

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Undercover Sportbiker
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Whenever my gas caps get a bit sticky, I drop in some liquid wrench. I also open the cap and spray the latch, making sure it goes into the little openings all the way around. Haven't been locked out yet. Pretty much any lube should do, and since most are petroleum based, you should have no issues with it getting into the gas either.
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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OK, i figured it out. There is a Pin in the Hinge of the gas cap. With a small screwdriver I drove the pin out of the hinge and Presto, the cap is off. What I did was dis assemble the locking maechanism. I then used an SOS pad and so fine grit sandpaper to remove any corrosion from the parts. I then put it back together piece by piece being careful to put a thin coat of Lock-Ease on each part. After assembly, It works like brand new!!!!! Even without pushing down on the gas cap the lock opens EASILY!!!! I did this a few months ago with graphite powder, except i didnt clean the parts as well. I am hoping that the Lock-Ease will last a little longer. It is very easy to do and if anyone has a lock that is not easy to turn this is the way to go.
Hey, how's it goin? I'm having the same issue with my cap. Bent my key (got off easy I guess) getting the tank open. Thanks for the info on what you used. I was just wondering how the repair is holding up. Do you have to re-apply the lock ease every so often? Thanks again.
Dave.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I use some "Tri Flow" lock lube with teflon (PTFE) on my house locks. I really smoothed up their operation this winter. I haven`t tried it on the tank lock, but assume it will work similar to the Lock-Ease.
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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Cool thanks. I'll try the Tri Flow. That's pretty good stuff
 

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Daily Rider
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I had the same problem, now I just give it a little shot of WD40 about once a week. First into the key slot, then open it up and spray the tab and work it a couple of times.
Works like a charm.
 

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I noticed that the gas cap on my Yamaha has a little hinged cover for the key slot. This seems to help keeping rain/dirt from getting in the lock.

The Vulcan has no such feature, but I was wondering if one could take a small piece of a rubber magnet, cut it into a tiny circle , and place it over the lock hole ..... Would it stick?
 

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It will stick, but only to the chrome face cap.
The plug/cylinder/core is aluminum.
The pins/wafers that are in it are brass.
The springs are steel, but there's no pulling power there.
Those springs are as small, if not smaller than, a grain of rice.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, so i know people are having this problem. That is if your bike sits out side in the Florida heat and rain. I have tried everything, and I can tell you what has worked for me. The lock itself is best lubed by Lock-ease (liquid graphite). The problem is, if that doesnt work than you problem is not the lock itself. If you take the cap off, there are 2 phillips head screws on the bottom of the lock assembly. If you remove those 2 screws you can disasemble the mechanism. It is not very complicated. Take it apart, and clean each piece. Put it back together. I have not figured out the best lube to use for these parts. I used Lock-ease the 1st and 2nd time i did it. But as I said, My bike gets alot of rain, It seems to wash each lube away after a few rain storms. I sprayed PB blaster in the keyhole and it seemed to ease it a little. But then it rained. I am going to take it apart this weekend and do it again. I am going to try Lithium grease. I will try to take pics and post them. After I do it each time, it works like new.
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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Oldhosscanada recommended Triflow. I used that about a month ago and haven't had a problem since. Nothing else prior seemed to last. Used it in the lock mechanism and in the key tumbler.
 

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I would stay away from Graphite for lubing locks. It has a tendency to build up in the lock, so the mechanism is pushing it around like a snowplow pushing snow. After multiple applications the mechanism will eventually become caked/jammed with the stuff (graphite that is) and need to be fully disassembled and cleaned out. I've seen this happen many, many times.

If Tri-Flow isn't doing it for ya, I would recommend Militec-1 or Militec grease. Do a internet search for these; they are far superior to any hardware store lube available. They used to send out free samples.:lockd:
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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OK here is another idea.
We recommend using Moly60 for lubing the rear splines to everyone who asks.
The molybdenum molecules actually penetrates (conditions) the surface of the metal it comes in contact with through a combination of movement (friction) and the heat that it creates. The lubricating qualities remain between the two contact surfaces even if the carrier (grease or oil) gets squeezed or washed out.

So my idea is to dismantle the lock cylinder into as many individual pieces as possible or necessary, then put a small amount of moly60 on the smooth side of a piece of leather and rub the lock pieces in the moly before reassembly. This way even if the lube gets washed out by rain or whatever, the lock will still be almost frictionless.

I just googled "Militec grease" and see that it is a metal conditioner too, but I couldn`t find a reference to what chemical is the active agent, moly or something else.

What do you think Keyman? Is there any advantage to going to the effort of dismantling, cleaning and "conditioning" the metal pieces in the lock as I have described or not?

Also is the Moly60 a suitable lock lube if you don`t have Militec or Tri-Flow?
 

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OlHossCanada - I think you got it, I bet that would work great!:smiley_th
 

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Old Twistie Sticks Rider
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Used to condition a match barrel with the Lock-Ease before shootin moly, or danzac bullets thru the barrel, usually the first shot would be with the rest, always assumed it was conditionin the barrel that caused that...
Want to hear something strange,--You can shoot a bit more powder behind a moly coated bullet, not that you get more velocity, but because you get less pressure and it takes more to get the pressure up to get the same velocity as a non coated bullet...lol...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
 
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