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I have not done this, but my understanding is some have cut the three yellow wires coming from the stator and put in-line fuses on them. Most use 15amp. I think the reasoning is a problem with the R/R would burnout the fuse before causing a problem with the stator. Hopefully somone with more knowledge will chime in soon.
 

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I don't think fusing the stator works, I did it with mine and it still shorted out after 6 months use.
Justin
2003 vn750
28000 miles
2nd stator
 

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Lady Di will disagree with you on this one. Had not one of the 15A fuses that she installed failed, she propably would have lost her bike's stator. Like anything else, it's not 100% foolproof, but it does offer a measure of protection, and that is more than not having any fuses offers.
justin said:
I don't think fusing the stator works, I did it with mine and it still shorted out after 6 months use.
Justin
2003 vn750
28000 miles
2nd stator
 

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Yes Justin 20A is to high, 15A is recommended. Having said that, if a stator fails due to a defect in material or workmanship fuses wont help that condition, it would fail no matter what, having said that fuses will help protect the stator against external influences such as a regulator/rectifier failure. I agree, without a good stator the bike is pretty much useless. I hope that you get it fixed soon so that you can ride again.

Mike

justin said:
Maybe because I had a 20 amp instead, still, the bike is worthless to me now.
 

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Before I fused it, everything I read pointed to a 20 amp fuse. The stator is still under warranty from Electrex, but I'll be damned if I'm going thru removing it and sending it to them. That whole repair was way too much a hassle for me. One point I want to make is that Kawasaki has made this product for how many year?...and they still can't get it right. If I buy a product for almost $7000.00 it should last for a few years before problems arise or at least 50-60k miles, but none of these bikes do. They all have some stupid problem either with the stator, drive shaft, ACCT, or some other crap. They're made as disposable pieces of &^*#. They may be great if you're in the mentality of wanting to work on bikes all the time and don't have kids or are looking for reasons to stay away from them. I would have been better off to buy a Honda, but I don't know if my experience may have been the same with them, since I ride for main transportation.
Justin
 

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I have to agree with Justin on this one. The reason I bought this bike was the lowest maintenance and best value for the buck. Now after 3 years I have to add a $ 1000 bill to the cost for replacing the stator, R/R.

Also I had the same expectation of a bike being in production for 20 years and I thought, gee, what can go wrong after so many years of experience and riders' feedback? Well, the stator problem is an ongoing one and it is a simple designproblem.

As much as I read about, it would be actually pretty easy to fix right in the factory:

1. Put the R/R outside of the bike for better cooling. Factory cost: $10 max.
2. Use a better, no maintenance battery. Extra cost: $15
3. Put fuses before the stator. Factory cost: $10 max.
4. Remove or insolate better the goat's belly, so it wouldn't heat the R/R. Cost: probably not more then $20.

So an extra $50 or so, the stator problem would have been stopped years ago. really, how hard is it for Kawasaki to come up with these solutions???
I bet the first 2 themselves would help 90% of the statorproblems, for a very little extra money. I am really disappointed in Kawasaki's management and R and D department....
 

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Will fusing the stator help? Not in all cases. In most of the cases where a stator was examined after failure it was a break down in insulation that caused the stator to fail. Actually, given the number of bikes out there the original kawasaki stator seems to be the longer lasting over the newer Electrex stators.
What fusing the stator will help prevent is the influx back to the stator due to a electrical problem. I am convinced that it saved my stator at least once when I had a short to ground. Much easier to replace that fuse then replace that stator.
Some theories on stator failure look at dirty or low oil levels, prolonged overheating conditions, such as riding in a parade, or the goats belly cooking the R/R and a fried R/R following through to the stator.
I minimized the risk factor by fusing my stator and eliminating one possible cause.
I relocated my R/R ($1.95 from the aluminum bracket at Home Depot) and degoated (Deciding to go with any type of after-market pipes will result in degoating) and hopefully eliminated another factor.
I also change my oil every 3000 miles and check oil level regularly.
One additional note.. In no way do I intend to indicate that stator failure might be due to a lack of maintenance on the owners part, although you can certainly expect problems with a neglected bike. You can do all of the above and still have stator failure somewhere along the way. Or hopefully you are one of the ones that got part of the good batch. There are a lot of VN750s out there with original stators and 30-50,000+ miles on them! I have 17,000 on my bike now and stator readings are right on the money.
Stators fail, and they fail on almost every type of bike I can think of. The thing that makes it a real bear on ours is the difficulty in replacing them!
 

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Here is a thought on fixing the problem. I assume no stator problem (new bike or new stator) occurs right after getting a brand new battery (wet or no maintenance, doesn't matter) so why not just get a brand new battery every year?

I do the math: My whole stator and R/R replacement : $930 after 3 years and 12K miles.
A new wet battery for 10 years every year: 520$. Even with a no maintenance battery it is only $650 and anybody can change a battery in 10 minutes.

Since I still don't know what caused my stator's frying, I can not be sure it won't happen in the next 7 years or in another 15K miles. Also a new battery every spring eliminates the problem of recharging, taking care of it in the winter, etc.

It looks to me that the new battery every year is cheaper, simpler and safer then replacing the stator (maybe twice as Justin did) in 10 years. I probably won't have a battery older than 2 years, ever....
 

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Good point about the battery replacement. I think a lot of people get into the mindset that a car battery is good for 5-6 years and the motorcycle battery should be too. Fact is, most motorcycle batteies only have a 1 year warranty.
I am closing in on the end of my second year with my maintenace free Westco battery. One difference is it is not put up for the winter. I am privelaged to enjoy year-round riding. I plan on replacing it next year unless something happens sooner with it.
I also have a voltmeter on my bike that helps me monitor any problems. Sort of an early warning meter *S*
 

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Pekelo said:
I have to agree with Justin on this one. The reason I bought this bike was the lowest maintenance and best value for the buck. Now after 3 years I have to add a $ 1000 bill to the cost for replacing the stator, R/R.

Also I had the same expectation of a bike being in production for 20 years and I thought, gee, what can go wrong after so many years of experience and riders' feedback? Well, the stator problem is an ongoing one and it is a simple designproblem.

As much as I read about, it would be actually pretty easy to fix right in the factory:

1. Put the R/R outside of the bike for better cooling. Factory cost: $10 max.
2. Use a better, no maintenance battery. Extra cost: $15
3. Put fuses before the stator. Factory cost: $10 max.
4. Remove or insolate better the goat's belly, so it wouldn't heat the R/R. Cost: probably not more then $20.

So an extra $50 or so, the stator problem would have been stopped years ago. really, how hard is it for Kawasaki to come up with these solutions???
I bet the first 2 themselves would help 90% of the statorproblems, for a very little extra money. I am really disappointed in Kawasaki's management and R and D department....
Been there, did all that.
My second, top-o-the-line, best aftermarket, deluxe Electrex stator STILL only lasted 13months.
I did 1,2, and 4 above within 6months of buying the bike brand new in June01.
I decided to fuse the stator when I had to install the Electrex...after 26000mi.
It barely lasted a year......
Bottom line, in my experience at least, while the preventative steps above certainly should be done, the problem lies elsewhere. Where, I don't know.
And because I did not want to go thru another 8hr repair agony that may or may not permanently fix the problem, I now ride a BMW.
Now all I have to worry about is splines....
 
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