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Discussion Starter #1
sorry if this is posted in another thread but i thigured it would be difficult to pinpoint with a search

the letters on the petcock stand for?
pri
on
res??
got my bike last night and tore into her today, cleaned the tank. changed the oil
didnt have the right size socket for plugs so those are next. bike fires but cant get the choke off it always dies, should i need to keep on the throttle to get the choke off or should it do it at an idle?

last question the front bevel cap keeps blowing off when i start the big and oil keeps spitting out, im assuming the oil is supposed to be in there to lube the bearings for the drive gear. but is that cap supposed to be glued on there with a sealant? or just slip in with the rubber gasket and stay?
 

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Pri is prime, turn it there to get gas into the carbs.

On is for normal riding.

Res is reserve, you'll get roughly 20 miles on reserve then you're out of gas.

The choke should operate without the throttle.

Haven't dealt with the bevel cap but I did see a new one on Ebay recently. I think they're just supposed to be a tight fit, or "press fit".

There's a download here for the repair manual if you need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
awesome thankyou very much i figured my common sense was right but couldnt be to sure its nice having a place to come for answers
 

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Don't expect to start your bike and be able to shut off the choke immediately. Adjust the choke slowly, keeping the rpms right around 1000 in the minutes before leaving your parking spot. It'll idle faster and faster as it warms up. You'll have to ride for a little bit to get it so it idles properly without any choke, especially in cold weather. If you've reached your destination and you still need the choke to keep the bike running with no throttle, you'll need to make some adjustments.

I was having issues keeping mine idling with no choke even after warming up, but a slight adjustment to the idle (black plastic knob on the left side of bike, on the carb) cleared that up amazingly well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
great thnkyou for the wise words guys
any response to tthe bevel cap blowing off? or should i be looking in a different thread to get an answer...for now i just threw some gasket sealer on it and stuck it back in
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Shouldn't be pressurized so that's a new one to me
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well when i start the bike im not sure if its pressure or just the initial jump of the bike that knocks it off. but it does come off and thers some slight oil pressure spiting oil out but mostly just kinda constantly drips out if i leave it of. and should there be much blow by on these bikes. i mostly work on cars so bikes are new to me im learning as i go. i noticed the other day i did and oil change and filled it to the h level on the indicator and got her started up and the level dropped to nothing in the indicator, opened the fill cap and it blew off...theres a good amount of blow by. is this normal?

another question...what rpm should warm running idle be at? and cold staart is at 1500 right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oh ok thanks on the rpm...as for the oil its only sputtering out the bevel cap, the blow by is coming from the oil fill cap
 

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Some oil coming out of the open fill cap would be normal, since the rotor is spinning an inch under the cap.

Not sure about the amount of blowby, but the oil can normally spray quite a bit if you have the cap off while running. Same as happens when you take the oil cap off a running lawnmower.

It might pay to do a pressure test on the cylinders, to see if compression is going into the crankcase. Could possibly explain the bevel cap blowing off.

Does it run ok? Both cylinders getting hot?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
rode the bike for the first time today and it rode fine no loss of power or stumbling felt like both cylinders were firing, havent felt them to the touch ill do that tomorrow when i start her....ok i feel a lot better knowing the oil cap situation is fairly normal. thanks again guys your great. love the knowledge!!
 
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