So, first post. I've had my Vulcan about 3 months. It's been turned into a bobber style bike. Ive always had to steer just a tick to the left to cruise straight. I have tried several times to align the forks thinking that was the source. But I noticed today that the wheel is not centered in the forks. Could this be my issue. Are these wheels normally dead center? What would cause it to be off center? Bushing, spacers, bearings? Anyone got any ideas?
Front wheel off center?
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How far off center? A photo would help.
Isn't there a clamp on one fork that holds the non threaded part of the axle...is the wheel more towards that than the nut side?
Isn't there a clamp on one fork that holds the non threaded part of the axle...is the wheel more towards that than the nut side?
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I think there are spacers on both sides and they are not the same size.. or the speedo drive (left side) may not be seated properly in the wheel
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Yes, the 'collars' are different, if they were swapped side to side it could maybe make the wheel offset.
#92027 and #92027A
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b2540f8700223e478e877/front-wheel
Was also thinking swing-arm adjustment. But you say the wheel isn't centered in the forks.
Should be wearing the tire on one side if you're constantly counter-steering left.
#92027 and #92027A
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b2540f8700223e478e877/front-wheel
Was also thinking swing-arm adjustment. But you say the wheel isn't centered in the forks.
Should be wearing the tire on one side if you're constantly counter-steering left.
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Again, a photo would help. Can the wheel be off center and not touch the fender?
I think the spacers Spockster pointed out are not interchangeable, one rides between the wheel bearings.
The axle on the right side has a hole through it near the end. This hole should be very close to the part on the fork that clamps that end of the axle. Like 1/16".
If it's sticking out more than that, or the hole is covered, something is definitely wrong...
I think the spacers Spockster pointed out are not interchangeable, one rides between the wheel bearings.
The axle on the right side has a hole through it near the end. This hole should be very close to the part on the fork that clamps that end of the axle. Like 1/16".
If it's sticking out more than that, or the hole is covered, something is definitely wrong...
Thanks guys. I'll get a pic tomorrow. But to answer a few of your questions. It is definitely closer to the fender on one side. Barely able to fit a finger between the tire and fender. And the axle appears to be correct in the space mentioned. Thinking it might be something with the spacers/speedo. Thinking of pulling it apart this weekend. Its not a terrible pull but enough that you absolutely could not let go of the bars even for a second.
Another thing that seems odd. When sitting still on the bike, if I slowly turn the bars to the left it's about the same resistance until full lock. If I do it to the right it gets to a point and just falls right without any resistance or imput required
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Different resistance in bar direction could mean the steering head bearings are bad. However you need to make sure it's not just the clutch cable causing the resistance.
It's also possible the bike was in a wreck and has damage to the front end. Sounds like something is EF'd up there.
It's also possible the bike was in a wreck and has damage to the front end. Sounds like something is EF'd up there.
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Are the brakes and/or rotors worn unevenly? You can see the wheel is off without the tape line against it. I’m not a mechanic but would assume a bent axle would have some shimmy in it. Is that left fork flared out a touch? Or is that an optical illusion??
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Maybe even 3/8 to 1/2" or 1.5cm. I need to go look at mine, will do that today.
One thing is to be sure the rotors are both equal distance from the wheel. What i mean is, if both sides aren't built/designed symmetrically then a different measuring point must be used. I seem to recall it being unequal from side to side when I laid it down to change the tire, could be wrong, that's was 5 yrs ago.
I tried gauging off the bolt bosses on the forks, but I think the sight angles are different in the pics.
Looks like the inner brake pads are really thin, I wonder if the wear is angled. And the tire pattern looks equal, have you put any miles on it?
Look at the top of the forks, where the caps are. Are they an equal amount above the triple tree? Not sure that could do it, but it's a spot to look at, have seen a few bikes that were really unequal there.
Will throw a tape measure on mine. You have the end of the tape on the flat part of the wheel bead, or the very edge of the wheel where it's rounded?
One thing is to be sure the rotors are both equal distance from the wheel. What i mean is, if both sides aren't built/designed symmetrically then a different measuring point must be used. I seem to recall it being unequal from side to side when I laid it down to change the tire, could be wrong, that's was 5 yrs ago.
I tried gauging off the bolt bosses on the forks, but I think the sight angles are different in the pics.
Looks like the inner brake pads are really thin, I wonder if the wear is angled. And the tire pattern looks equal, have you put any miles on it?
Look at the top of the forks, where the caps are. Are they an equal amount above the triple tree? Not sure that could do it, but it's a spot to look at, have seen a few bikes that were really unequal there.
Will throw a tape measure on mine. You have the end of the tape on the flat part of the wheel bead, or the very edge of the wheel where it's rounded?
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Maybe that's what I'm seeing when I try to measure from the bolt bosses.
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