Joined
·
103 Posts
I pulled my wheels the other day to replace the tires and noted that one bearing on the front had a definite "click" when manually rotated. There's a great bearing supply place near me so I ran down at lunch and picked up a pair of double sealed units for < $15.
Digging into Clymer's for replacement instructions takes you to pg 360 (for me). The relevant, erroneous, instructions read:
"8. To remove the right- and left-hand bearings and distance collar, insert a soft aluminum or brass drift into one side of the hub.
9. Push the distance collar over to one side and place the drift on the inner race of the lower bearing.
10. Tap the bearing out of the hub...."
Of significant note is Figure 21. From the description and figure it would seem that the distance collar could be moved aside from either end and either bearing driven out. This, however is NOT the case.
The inaccuracy with manual stems from the construction of the wheel itself. The distance collar has a shouldered section inside the hub into which it, presumably, rests to affect the pinching of the bearing but also as a means to locate it coaxially with the bearings themselves.
In my situation I had a fair amount of rust around the outer race of the bearings where they contacted the hub. Having never before made this repair I was unfamiliar with how far the distance collar would dislocate to pound out the opposite bearing. For a fair period of time I thought I had moved it as far as possible and was currently pounding on the inner race of the bearing when in actuality I was pounding the shoulder for the collar; the wheel itself!
The correct repair would involve working with the wheel flat on its side, rotational direction going clockwise, on a padded surface. More explicitly, speedometer mount down. In this configuration the distance collar was easily displaced, the bearing removed (follwed by the collar), then plenty of operating room was available to avoid the internal shoulder and drive out the remaining bearing.
Fortunately I did not damage the internals of the hub, but who knows what a solid hit on the inner shoulder could have done to my wheel. Having a 50% chance of guessing right based on the manual's inaccuracy was frustrating which is why I hope anyone in a similar situation finds this first.
*In case it is pertinent, my 750 is a '95. I suppose it is possible the wheel construction changed somewhere in the product's development.
Digging into Clymer's for replacement instructions takes you to pg 360 (for me). The relevant, erroneous, instructions read:
"8. To remove the right- and left-hand bearings and distance collar, insert a soft aluminum or brass drift into one side of the hub.
9. Push the distance collar over to one side and place the drift on the inner race of the lower bearing.
10. Tap the bearing out of the hub...."
Of significant note is Figure 21. From the description and figure it would seem that the distance collar could be moved aside from either end and either bearing driven out. This, however is NOT the case.
The inaccuracy with manual stems from the construction of the wheel itself. The distance collar has a shouldered section inside the hub into which it, presumably, rests to affect the pinching of the bearing but also as a means to locate it coaxially with the bearings themselves.
In my situation I had a fair amount of rust around the outer race of the bearings where they contacted the hub. Having never before made this repair I was unfamiliar with how far the distance collar would dislocate to pound out the opposite bearing. For a fair period of time I thought I had moved it as far as possible and was currently pounding on the inner race of the bearing when in actuality I was pounding the shoulder for the collar; the wheel itself!
The correct repair would involve working with the wheel flat on its side, rotational direction going clockwise, on a padded surface. More explicitly, speedometer mount down. In this configuration the distance collar was easily displaced, the bearing removed (follwed by the collar), then plenty of operating room was available to avoid the internal shoulder and drive out the remaining bearing.
Fortunately I did not damage the internals of the hub, but who knows what a solid hit on the inner shoulder could have done to my wheel. Having a 50% chance of guessing right based on the manual's inaccuracy was frustrating which is why I hope anyone in a similar situation finds this first.
*In case it is pertinent, my 750 is a '95. I suppose it is possible the wheel construction changed somewhere in the product's development.
