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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled my wheels the other day to replace the tires and noted that one bearing on the front had a definite "click" when manually rotated. There's a great bearing supply place near me so I ran down at lunch and picked up a pair of double sealed units for < $15.

Digging into Clymer's for replacement instructions takes you to pg 360 (for me). The relevant, erroneous, instructions read:

"8. To remove the right- and left-hand bearings and distance collar, insert a soft aluminum or brass drift into one side of the hub.

9. Push the distance collar over to one side and place the drift on the inner race of the lower bearing.

10. Tap the bearing out of the hub...."

Of significant note is Figure 21. From the description and figure it would seem that the distance collar could be moved aside from either end and either bearing driven out. This, however is NOT the case.

The inaccuracy with manual stems from the construction of the wheel itself. The distance collar has a shouldered section inside the hub into which it, presumably, rests to affect the pinching of the bearing but also as a means to locate it coaxially with the bearings themselves.

In my situation I had a fair amount of rust around the outer race of the bearings where they contacted the hub. Having never before made this repair I was unfamiliar with how far the distance collar would dislocate to pound out the opposite bearing. For a fair period of time I thought I had moved it as far as possible and was currently pounding on the inner race of the bearing when in actuality I was pounding the shoulder for the collar; the wheel itself!

The correct repair would involve working with the wheel flat on its side, rotational direction going clockwise, on a padded surface. More explicitly, speedometer mount down. In this configuration the distance collar was easily displaced, the bearing removed (follwed by the collar), then plenty of operating room was available to avoid the internal shoulder and drive out the remaining bearing.

Fortunately I did not damage the internals of the hub, but who knows what a solid hit on the inner shoulder could have done to my wheel. Having a 50% chance of guessing right based on the manual's inaccuracy was frustrating which is why I hope anyone in a similar situation finds this first. :D


*In case it is pertinent, my 750 is a '95. I suppose it is possible the wheel construction changed somewhere in the product's development.
 

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Alpha Geek
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487 Posts
I'm getting ready to do this while I'm putting tires on, but are you sure you remove the left bearing first from the right side? With "rotational direction going clockwise" and "speedometer mount down", you're working the opposite from what my manual says.

I'm not sure what the Clymer manual is. I only have the PDF of the factory manual. Seems to me that it has you take things out through the right side, tapping from the left side (bolding is mine):

· Insert a metal rod into the hub from the left side, and remove the right side bearing by tapping evenly around the bearing inner race.

· Remove the remaining bearing by tapping evenly around the bearing inner race. The distance collar comes out with the bearing.

· [clean pack etc.]

· Insert either bearing so the seal is outward

· Press the wheel bearing (right side) into the hub until it stops at the bottom of the hole.
 

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...wow...a 2006 bump....gotta be a record....
 

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front bearing 1986.

I bashed away at mine for a good while, becoming quite frustrated and increasing hammer size as I went. I do recall having the speedo drive out and that's about it. But it was a trouble, glad I didn't get too carried away with the force part of it.I got new wheel bearings in and happy with it.
 

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...see ?....Kanuck's "in the groove".... ;)
 

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Alpha Geek
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Anyone know for sure which side they come out of? I'll assume the factory manual is right..?

...wow...a 2006 bump....gotta be a record....
Yeah, well.. resurrect old threads or end up with 10 new ones every year on the same topics. I asked before and didn't get a definite answer for thsi forum's preference. But I've seen that make a mess out of a really good forum and my view is to keep it together.
 

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I asked before and didn't get a definite answer
I never saw it....sorry....

And this forum will get messed up over my dead fookin body.... ;)
 

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I plan on installing the new progressive springs, brakes, and tires this weekend. I am glad I found this post. My question is do you need a bearing puller from harbor freight or rented from a loan a tool, or do you just tap it out like this post suggests?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I never saw it....sorry....



And this forum will get messed up over my dead fookin body.... ;)
Sorry brother...

Sent from my 100005206 using Tapatalk
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Eye see you fookers


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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Just found this picture on my tablet and I have no idea how it got on there

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