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Discussion Starter #1
On my recently acquired 1999 vulcan 750, the front brake drags slightly.. making it really hard to push/move. I don't have a repair manual and I would like to get this problem fixed before riding season.. what's the best way?
Thanks!
 

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Undercover Sportbiker
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Some drag is normal. If you suspect that it is excessive, pull hte offending caliper, clean all the parts, and give it a thorough inspection and lubing where appropriate. You could also check to see if the rotor is warped without taking anything off. Put the bike on the center stand and prop the front wheel off the ground. Standing directly above the wheel, spin it slowly (but not TOO slowly) while looking straight down at the rotor. Any warping will be immediately apparent. Also, if the pads drag more at certain points than others, you will be able to hear the change in tone.
 

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You may want to check your rear brake, too - not saying that your front ones aren't dragging some, but as AJ said, some drag is normal. On the center stand, you can spin the rear wheel - as long as you're in neutral, it should turn pretty freely. The adjusting barrel is on that cable that comes across the frame and hooks into your "pad safety level" lever (say that three times fast!). Turning the barrel CCW puts more slack in the cable (if you're dragging, that's what you want); CW tightens it (if you undrag it too much and need to cinch it down a little).

The only reason I say also check the back is ...experience. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the rear is good.. its just the front that I have to straddle the seat, and yank back to get the bike to roll... or shift my weight forward real hard to get it to go forward..
 

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A badly dragging front brake can be very bad for your health. Dragging brakes cause heat -> heat transfers to the brake fluid -> boiled brake fluid = loss of the ability to brake!

Your brake calipers need to be pulled apart and cleaned ASAP. You may even need new brake seals. It's cheap life insurance, fix this soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yep.. well, the 5-6 inches of fresh snow say I have a few days.. or weeks, lol.. never know up here in the MI UP lol.. thanks.
 

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That and do yourself a favor and get a shop manual. The Kaw manual is OK as is the Clymer's. The Kaw manual is a free download from TOC but is a large file if you're on dial up. The $20 or so you'll spend on a paper manual is well worth it if you are going to do any type of wrenching on the bike. The anwers to most questions are contained in them and you won't have to wait for a timely response on a Saturday when we are all out riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Air in the brake line will cause brake drag. My front wheel moves freely with little drag.

Short story here: I was riding home from work on my GL500 and noticed a loss of power - or so it seemed -. I pulled over and smelled hot. Looking down at the front wheel my disk was red - in daylight! The problem was traced to a leaky O ring on the caliper. Replaced the O ring, changed the fluid, bled the system and it's been fine for years.

BTW - to get home I loosened the bleeder valve to relieve pressure. Try that on your VN to free up the front brakes. You will need to bleed after this test.

DT
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I took the brake assemblies off completely, took the pads off, readjusted the pistons, cleaned them up, installed them, and then bled the brake lines.. it still makes contact, but I can turn the wheel without it grinding now thanks all!

BTW- DOT4 is expensive!
 
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