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Discussion Starter #1
I couldn't find my old post on this so I will vent in this new one.

Replaced oil seal and small O ring on bevel gear shaft. Reassembled and found it leaked as bad as before. Removed and disassembled then noticed the bearing cluster was missing its cage (no, I did not lose it). I guessed that was allowing the shaft to wobble creating the continued leak. Replaced the bearing AND IT STILL LEAKS although not nearly as badly.

This pissing me off. Anyone want to guess why its still leaking? Maybe my brief use of the new seal/O ring with the bad bearing ruined the oil seal/O ring? I am about to swap it out for a good gear case off an unused motor.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
I couldn't find my old post on this so I will vent in this new one.

Replaced oil seal and small O ring on bevel gear shaft. Reassembled and found it leaked as bad as before. Removed and disassembled then noticed the bearing cluster was missing its cage (no, I did not lose it). I guessed that was allowing the shaft to wobble creating the continued leak. Replaced the bearing AND IT STILL LEAKS although not nearly as badly.

This pissing me off. Anyone want to guess why its still leaking? Maybe my brief use of the new seal/O ring with the bad bearing ruined the oil seal/O ring? I am about to swap it out for a good gear case off an unused motor.
Sorry I can`t help with the oil leak problem, but I can tell you how to find your old posts.

If you can find any of your old posts, click on your user name and a window opens.
One of the options is to locate all your old posts.

Here is a link to your older post on this subject:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7484

If you can`t find any of your old posts to start with, go to the testing grounds and temporarily reply to any thread with a few words of nonsense, (minimum of 4 words I think?)
http://www.vn750.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10
This reply will, or can be, be deleted at the end of this procedure.
Then click on "Submit Reply" at bottom of this screen.
Then click on your user name and proceed as outlined previously.

After finding and updating or manipulating the old thread, you can to go back and delete the temporary reply used to get started on this little exercise. :)
 

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Yes. The most obvious cause is abnormal/uneven wear caused by the initial fault, but not visible without using a dial indicator setup on a removed and careful examination of the output shaft.

Under torque, the seals can be flexed beyond sealing capabilities and puke when the side play/runout exceeds the sealing/flex capability.

The blind cure would be to replace all components including the shaft, bearing, seals and final housing/rear bevel (schematic P/n 41046).

If time is on your side and you just gotta know, setup your dial indicator and lathe/milling spindle and check the shaft runout. Use a self centering three point vise and do the same with the final housing inner race face. Replace as necessary.

Or take your last suggestion and just be done with it.
 

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According to my Clymer manual, the front bevel gear case cannot be worked on without special tools and skills (beyond those required to rebuild the engine) and it doesn't explain how to do anything beyond simply removing and replacing it. Same thing goes for the rear drive gear case. One of the reasons I never got into gears. They are just too finicky for me. I leave gearboxes to someone who specializes in such things.
 
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