[El_Taco]

I looked through every page here, and found no mention of freeze plugs, or at least nobody's seen a problem. I pulled my radiator, mostly because I wanted it out of the way, and because there was flaky crap in every hose I've pulled.

City water does a number on aluminum. As I was blowing the flaky crap out, I noticed a hole behind the perch for the RH foot peg. Is there supposed to be a glass here, or some kind of expansion plug?

 

[El_Taco]

I had a look at the parts motor. There's supposed to be a plug in there, alright. It was flush with the case and smooth across tht top. It was actually an access hole for a fastener for something. Anyone ever seen one of these missing?

 

[cegodsey]

I see it! Smooth to the engine. So you say it's an access hole? What for? Have you looked at the parts microfiche? It appears to be an oil seal and ball bearing behind that plug, from what I can tell. Seems like Kaw only figured the left side of the engine was important, so it's hard to tell.

You do have the shop manual PDF file don't you? Somebody have the link? I don't appear to have it, although I have the 110+MB PDF file.

 

[Dianna]

Forget about the plug, did you say.. City water?
I hope that was the previous owner that thoughtlessly put city water in the radiator!
Always. ALWAYS use distilled water if you are mixing the coolant. Mineral deposits are the results if you don't. Same for the battery if you are still using a wet cell.
Chances are those flaky deposits are in the radiator too and not just the hoses.

 

[cegodsey]

I always use the water from the dispensers in downtown Hot Springs. That way I'm sure it doesn't have chlorine or flouride in it.

Dianna, what's the link for the Manual PDF?

 

[fergy]

I always use the water from the dispensers in downtown Hot Springs. That way I'm sure it doesn't have chlorine or flouride in it.

Dianna, what's the link for the Manual PDF?

I'm sure you're kidding right? That would be "mineral water" which is exactly what you don't want.

http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/Files for Download/VN750 Manual and Parts.pdf
It's a biggie, so it takes plenty of time to download!

 

[Krawdad7]

:smiley_th You guys really should drain your radiators and put in fresh antifreeze and DISTILLED WATER like Dianne suggests you really dont need deposits in your colling system............

 

[El_Taco]

I see it! Smooth to the engine. So you say it's an access hole? What for? Have you looked at the parts microfiche? It appears to be an oil seal and ball bearing behind that plug, from what I can tell. Seems like Kaw only figured the left side of the engine was important, so it's hard to tell.

You do have the shop manual PDF file don't you? Somebody have the link? I don't appear to have it, although I have the 110+MB PDF file.

I may try to get a picture. It's just a nut, which is recessed about a quarter inch.

And the easiest way to go is pre mixed 50/50.

Thanks for the file. Our computer is down. I'll have to download it after the reformat.

 

[cegodsey]

Yeah, kidding. But I do use tap water. Have been all my life. Battery too. Yeah, I know you're sposed to use distilled, but I don't keep distilled handy.

 

[Dianna]

Yeah, kidding. But I do use tap water. Have been all my life. Battery too. Yeah, I know you're sposed to use distilled, but I don't keep distilled handy.

Pfffft.. With the bike you don't have to.. IF you have a maintenance free battery and buy the pre-mixed coolant

 

[cegodsey]

That's true. I have an MF battery, and the last coolant change (first change) was done at the shop, so my bike is still pretty much a virgin. And when I do a coolant change, I'll do the pre-mix. I'm glad you chimed in about that, I didn't know there was such a beast. How often are we supposed to change the coolant, and what happens if we don't?

 

[Dianna]

About every 18,000 miles
Coolant 50% mix Ethylene Glycol based Antifreeze (for aluminum engines) and Distilled Water 1.6 qt.
Torque: Engine Drain Plug: 78 in-lbs Radiator Drain Plug: 26 in-lbs

Or if you are one of those low miles people go by color change or system test
You can test the anti-freeze/coolant just like you do with an automobile. Coolant can start changing color and look "dirty" from it's original color. Do a full system flush when you do change it (That is why the Engine drain plug torque is also specified)

With our mileage we do it as part of our spring maintenance along with the brake fluid change.
Brake fluid is easy to check, just look in the sight glass on the Master Cylinder, if it is not a light amber or golden color and looks more like a brownish color, then it has picked up moisture and contaminates.