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226 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey people. I have a problem with the electrical system. I am thinking my regulator is fried. However, I'd certainly like to hear you opinions. I cross posted this on the yahoo group, but responses were few and far between. I'm hoping that someone will help me here. I'll repost the two posts that I put on the Yahoo group. Oh the prize will be a couple of post cards from Colorado. Its the best I can do, though it won't be enough to repay any help I get.

The first message:
Hey, I replaced the stator about 1,500 miles ago, and replaced the
regulator at the same time. Since then, I've had no problems.
Yesterday, I was on the highway, going about 70 MPH when the bike
stopped working.

The coolant guage was about midway, oil was checked before I left
and I also checked it after the bike stopped, it was still good.
Nothing else seemed amiss.

What occured was while riding down the highway, I was in 5th gear,
probably going about 67 mph. I increased the throttle slightly to
get back up to 70 mph. Suddenly, the bike lost power to the engine.
The headlight indicator started flashing like crazy, and then high
beam indicator went on. The tach would drop to zero and then shoot
back up to around 5,000 or what it would seem to be correct about
the same time the headlight indicator would flash on.

I pulled over, and stopped the bike. At this point, all indicator
lights went out. I first checked for leaking but nothing was unusal.
Oil was still good, coolant good. I didn't have my multimeter, but I
figured the regulator had probably malfunctioned, and the battery
had died. (just a guess, I don't know that the deal was.) I made the
call to the towing service, and while waited, I started poking
around the wiring some more. I pushed on all of the connectors in
the plastic plug that connects the regulator, and then tried the
key. To my joy, the oil light came on. It had been about 15 minutes
since the bike stopped working. I shifted to neutral, and hit the
starter. It made several clicks but the battery apparently wasn't
enough to start it.

I had the tow driver jump me instead. The bike fired right up. The
meter on his jump pack showed a strong charge. I continued, got off
the highway after a mile or so, and then entered Denver traffic. Red
lights, etc. I kept the throttle about 3,000 or so whenever possible
to keep the battering charging. After about a mile, I let the bike
go back to its normal idle speed. Suddenly, while stopped at a
light, the headlight flasher began going crazy again, the high beam
came on, the tach went to zero and the motor all but died. I figured
I should kill the bike now, figuring that I would find a loose wire,
fix it, and be able to restart the bike.

Instead, I found that several of the wires had their insulation
melted. I'm not sure if the wires were shorting out though. The
regulator was hotter than a baked potato.

No fuses were blown, nothing else seemed amiss. However, the heat
had discolored the spade connectors inside the plug. My Regulator is
mounted on the fuse box cover, behind the left side panel. It was
still secured and couldn't be moved when I tried it. The zip ties
holding it to the fuse box were not melted though, so I think the
wires were hot from the electrical current rather than the motor,
which was well in its normal temp range according to the coolant
gauge. The brown wire had about burned through. Basically, the wires
seemed to have all broken, and it was held on by just a peice of
insulation. This was in the plug though, so it wouldnt be able to be
moved back and forth to break it.

I was unable to do much of anything to the bike while stopped the
second time and it was towed about 70 miles (yeah, it cost a lot.)
Once back, I turned the key again, and the oil light came on very
faintly. I assumed the battery had died again, but I left the bike
over night.

Today, I checked the battery. 13.1 volts. I checked the regulator. I
set the ohms meter to the 100K scale. All readings were OL

Sorry about this long message, but I wanted to give out all
information that I hope might give you guys an idea of what went
wrong, and what should I do to fix it. This is really depressing.

Follow up message, correction attempts so far:
Hey good people.

I posted a few days ago with my problem. To sum up, I was riding
down the highway and suddenly the headlight warning light started
flashing, the high beam went on, the tachometer died and so did the

The brown regulator wire was completely burned apart, and two other
regulator wires had melted insulation. No fuses were blown.

I got a couple of recomendations, like check the ignition switch,

This is what I have done so far. The battery was fully charged, so
the charging system was likely functioning up to the electrical

I spliced all of the regulator wires together rather than rely on
the warped plug. Currently just temporary, to see whats wrong.
Nuetral and oil lights failed to come on.

Checked ignition switch. FYI, there are 7 wires coming from the
ignition assembly. 5 are in a plastic plug. The other two use
singular bullet connectors. The bullet connector insulation was
melted and burned. These wires are normally connected when the key
is on, so I don't think this would have created a short circut.
Contacts were dirty. Cleaned contacts and tested. All checked out.

hooked switch back up. Neutral and Oil lights came on once, and not
at other key turns. However, the lights may have been so dim that I
didn't see them. (See below) Starter button failed to work on the
time the lights came on.

Disconnected switch. Hard wired all wires together as per wiring
diagrams in Clymers. Essentually hard wired the circuits closed.
Reconnected ground wire to battery. Sometimes when I did this, the
lights would stay off, sometimes they would come on, but most of the
time, the nuetral and oil lights would glow so faintly as to appear
off, and then gradually become brighter until they reached full
strength. No matter, the starter switch still wouldn't turn. Engine
cut off switch was in the "Run" position.

So, does anyone want to take a shot at what the problem might be? If
you solve the problem, I'll send you a post card or two from
Colorado. Small prize I know, but after the tow, thats all I can

Uber Member
1,280 Posts
LOL I'll take the postcards LOL.....j/k. well to cause the melting u seem to have, i would say a surge occured. did u use an electrix stator or oem? the reason i ask is cause i am thinking your previous problem set up a time bomb issue. when you replaced it, it finished it. Have you had the battery recently replaced. Yet again another time bomb issue. there may be an internal short that when it gets warm from charging it causes the high current. If you have a battery tender, disconect the batt, and connect the battery tender to the battery connections. this wont produce jucie to start it, unless it has a jump option on the settings, but you can turn it to "on" and help eliminate some problems.

I would certainly change out those plugs too....the short may be in there. when shorts occur, there is nothing to stop the flow of electricity. flow without resistance through the Vn750's small wires creates lots of heat. not only that, but electricity takes path of least resistance. that means that a short in just the right place, can drain you bike of all avialiable power, shutting her down

226 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I think, though I am not sure, that a wire came loose from the regulator the first time the bike stopped. After a start using a portable jump pack, the voltage at the terminals was really high. Well over 15 volts. At least, thats what the meter said on the jump pack. It does that when the battery is somewhat discharged (it was drained I think) and it slacks off as the battery becomes fully charged.

Stator and RR were elextrx. Replaced at the same time.
Battery is a Westco. Its relatively new, though I had it in the bike while it was having a charging problems, (not charging) for a while.

So, what should I do first? The bullet plugs were cleaned, sanded, and bent in for solid contact.

Battery is at something like 12 volts right now last I checked, which meant the battery, if it had died the first time it was disabled, went from zero charge to full charge in a matter of minutes.

I'm guessing I'll have to replace the RR again. But I don't want to do that if I can avoid it. The readings all come to OL on my meter when I tested it according to the Clymer's manual.

Thanks for the help so far.


83 Posts
Sounds like maybe the plug going into the RR may have not been seated all of the way in and one or more conductors got hot. Once the plastic plug became distorted, more conductors could have began building heat as well. When you temporarily relocated it, was there any tension on the wiring harness to it? Did you ever run a ground wire to the RR case?

CD in Frederick, OK

226 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There was no tension in the wires. My understanding was that there was already a ground wire to the RR. It is looking like the RR is the culprit. At least, thats what I think so far. Someone suggested load testing the battery, as well as testing the stator to make sure that hasn't blown.

One more bit of info. When it was jumped with the protable jump pack, the on built in meter on the jump pack was pegged at max charge when the bike was brought up to 4,000 RPMs. I'm guessing the RR was messed up at this point?

Uber Member
1,280 Posts
I am thinking its a combination of things.... electrix claims their stators put out more power, but also dont have any specifics. that coulpled with the already damaged RR connection may have cause the catastropic failure your seeing. what is interesting though is the battery. the zero to charge in a matter of mins doesnt add up. I would REPLACE the damaged connectors. You can either use OEM, or you can use a spade style which i have heard eleminates some of the heat at that connection b/c of the lower resistance. then i would give another run....see what happens, but just local...no massive tows :p. i would also suggest getting a volt meter and attaching it during the test runs..you can get the cheap analog type from an auto parts store for a reasonable price. this way you can see a live feed on what your electrical is doing.

side note....is ur stator and RR still under warranty?

226 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I put both on like a month or two ago. Are they under warranty? And I'm only guessing that the battery was dead the first time around. As I said, after jiggling the wires the first time, I tried to restart it and got the "Click click click" sound that you often hear with a car with a dead battery. Coupled with the fact that the bike nearly fired when I tried to push start it (not much of a hill and I happened to notice that the tow truck was coming up behind me) and then fired right up with the jump pack made me think that the battery had died and needed a charge.

But yes, I will certainly be adding a volt meter. If the charging system had failed and I was relying entirely off of the battery for much of the trip, I bet I would have gotten a warning about $90 sooner. hehe.

I am just going to splice the wiring together when possible with solder and friends. Connectors come loose and cause problems. My understanding is that a soldered splice won't corode, won't come loose and is maintainance free, right?

Uber Member
1,280 Posts
they do corrode...., make sure that u insulate them from the elements....either with heatshrink or use dielectric grease... both can be found in eletricians stores and auto part stores alike

226 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Help, here is my latest installement of my problem. Bike starts, runs, fires up. all good. But my regulator gets scrorching hot in just a a minute or two. This is what I just posted on the Yahoo group.

Hey, I posted a while back that my bike had had an electrical problem. The Regulator went out, then the battery over charged. I replaced the regulator, got a new battery as the other one was toasted. I spliced the wires together, cleaned up a few connections here and there. Both the front running lights were torched, though just the left side turn signal filimants front and rear were burned out. The tail light bulbs were burned out, but not the brake light filimants. I replaced all of the bulbs.

Bike fired right up. Charging is around 13.5-13.7 at 5,000. Everything is peachy, except, my regulator was just sitting on the passenger foot peg during some tests, so it wasn't really anywhere close to the exhast system, at least, not that close, but it was REALLY hot. Kinda baked potato. You could move it around, but you couldn't hold it for more than a second or two. Is this normal? I mean, it got this hot in just a minute or two. I don't want to ride it if there is something still wrong. Everything else seems good to go.

Once Banned
2,125 Posts
This may help, or not, but I experienced the exact same symptoms about two years ago. I was just cruizing down the interstate when all the "E.T." light flickering and backfiring started. Bike just went crazy-dead. It was early evening, and I was lucky enough to have a friend see me and help me get it over the curb, away from the crazies on the highway. He had one of those portable jump start batteries (you know - with the lights and air compressor built in), and attempted to get me jumped. It started ok, then started flaking out a couple miles down the road. If I kept the rpms up high, it would keep going, but eventually start flickering and backfiring and I was dead at the side of the road again. It was this second time that it occurred to me to check the water in the battery - NONE! So my buddy took me out to Autozone and we got another battery. Didn't have time to give it a charge - just threw it in and drove off.

About 6 months later I started experiencing the damage I did that day. First thing I noticed was that the headlight stopped working. I'm sure you've been through this, but I'll repeat it for any newbies to this problem. Wasn't the bulb, wasn't the relay in the junction box. Figured out that the relay was triggered by the stator, and that the stator wasn't putting out enough voltage to kick the relay in. Turns out that at the time the stator WAS putting out enough voltage, but the regulator had weakened during the jump starting episode 6 months before, and eventual fried. I tested it, and the regulator was shorted out. Thus "sucking" the voltage from the stator, which explained why the three yellow wires coming from the stator had melted where they plug into the yellow wires going to the regulator. So I replaced the regulator and everything was hunky-dory for a couple of months, until the stator went bad. SO, that may not solve your problem, but it should give you some more insight.

Oh, to end my story, my bike sat for 9 months, then I took it in to get the stator replaced (I just didn't have the time/courage to do it myself). Now my only problem is restarting it. Like, I get gas, then I can't get it started again without getting someone to push me or finding a hill for a rolling start. Never again will I buy a bike without a kick starter. I read here that it is a common problem, and I have a YUASA MF battery on order hoping that will fix it. Also, it hits "dead spots" in the starter - another sign of a weak battery. We'll see in a few days...

So, good luck with your problem. Does sound like your battery wasn't doing its job, though.
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