Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently rebuilt both front forks on my 750. Like an idiot, I let the parts guy at the local Kawi dealer look up what I needed, rather than look it up in the manual myself. Guy gave me 5w and said I had to put 143ml in each fork. Should have known something was up when it took a lot more than that to fill each tube to the right level.

Anyway, I soon noticed that the front end would get a little squirrely if push too hard in the twisties or dealing with some of our back roads that have been beat to death by the local Amish horse & buggies. So I finally pulled out the manual and sure enough, 5w ain't right. Book calls for 10w20.

Now I don't know how it is in the rest of the country or the rest of the world but no one around these parts sells multi-weight fork oil. Went to 3 shops looking for 10w20 and all I found were single weights. Two of the 3 suggested using the 10w, the third just looked at me like I was from mars.

So what are you folks running for tube oil?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Maybe I misread the manual as the norm seems to be single weight. Going to go with 10 and see what happens.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,613 Posts
Many people just use ATF with no problems.

10w20 written like that is a multi-weight. 10-20w or 10w-20w would read 10 to 20 weight, but it only takes one slip of a finger and one sleepy proofreader...
 

·
R/R = Relocated Redneck
Joined
·
628 Posts
X2 on the progressives (about $70 from powersport superstore). The manual says 10w, but the stuff I got is 10w20.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
Weird....3 posts now that arent showing.....anyway, I use Bel-ray 20...its whats recommended for Harleys with the same forks (Showa)....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well I looked in the shop manual again and it definitely says 10w20. Already purchased a bottle of 10w so that's what will be going in tomorrow. If I don't like how it feels, guess I'll be spending another $12 on a bottle of 20w. :motorcycl
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
There aint much diff between 10 and 20....minimal at most....Im thinking your springs may be shot (mine were)....easy changeover....but yer talkin a few bucks....like around $80....worth it though, IMO....the rear aint as critical as the front....I was lucky enough to get forks from Shark with good springs....I still need to reinstall the air assist due to my heavy fairing....
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,807 Posts
How big a guy are you Joe? do you have a windscreen?
As mentioned.....better springs will make more of a difference, and so would a fork brace. I think a 20w fork oil would make the ride too harsh, and be even worse if your springs are shot.

As always, your want an even compromise here, stiff enough to feel solid in turns but soft enough you don't feel like you're being beaten up by every ripple and bump in the road. Your discription of "symptoms" are those two different areas...
"I soon noticed that the front end would get a little squirrely if push too hard in the twisties or dealing with some of our back roads that have been beat to death by the local Amish horse & buggies."

But the bike lacks the suspension, front or rear, where its going to do well on crappy roads. Simply lacks the travel really.

If your springs feel too soft and you can't afford new springs, you can try adding a little more preload to the stock ones. A 3/4 inch stack of the right sized washers on top of each spring might help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I am a petite 6' and 265lbs and do have a full windscreen on the bike. The progressive springs are now on my want list but being retired it may be awhile before I can come up with the $$$.

Thanks for the info.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,236 Posts
I replaced the stock 10w in mine with fresh factory spec oil and the difference is amazing. you should really check your steering head bearings as well. Ehey can definitely cause the problems you describe as well as the previous suggestions offered,

I have used ATF as well and it is usually 10w as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
When you say that people use transmission fluid, do you mean like Decron 6 or ATF 4? Is one preferred? I put Belray 15w in mine, but I am trying to be as cheap as possible this go around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,613 Posts
Used atf in mine, forget exactly but probably just Dexron 3, store brand even. Almost any atf should be fine, there's no clutches or bands to worry about. That original fork oil smelled horrible, like dead whale or something.

Bike shops didn't have any lightweight fork oil. Atf is supposed to be 20w I think.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,807 Posts
I’d still use Bell-Ray 10w. Some things you don’t need to scrimp on, and to me fork oil, which you likely won’t have to change again, is one of them.
If you have a heavy windscreen, maybe 15w.

As an FYI, there really is no standards for fork oil. Some ATF is actually heavier than others, so there’s no definite “weight” between them all, and that goes for dedicated fork oil. One brands 10w might be another’s 7w.
The reason I always recommend Bel-Ray is because it’s become that standard to go by and thus much more predictable.

I also installed Progressive fork springs, and a fork brace, which I think improved greatly the Vulcan’s front end.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top