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Alpha Geek
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Trying to rebuild the forks on my other VN750. I just need to take out the brass-colored bolts that retain the inner guts, but the allen heads are stripped out by the P.O.

Any ideas? I'm not sure the next size allen or torx will fit even with some "persuasion". This is really discouraging because it's the only bike I can ride right now.
 

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You could try to hammer the next oversize torx bit in there, then before trying to turn, heat with propane to loosen the blue Loctite that should have been used on it.

In a pinch, I've been able to chisel on the edge of the allen head to turn them, but that is recessed so I'm not sure if that would work.

One trick I saw is to loosen those before taking the wheel off, makes it easier. Be sure you're using a metric allen wrench too.
 

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Jack of all trades
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2,863 Posts
Next size torx with a hammer is my suggestion. Then after you get them out go to the hardware store and pick up new ones.
 

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Alpha Geek
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I tried metric to begin with. Looks like it used to be a 5. I have a full set of Torx but they won't fit. Probably have to notch it before I can hammer one in. I'll try that tomorrow...

So.. Guess I'm in the market for a new bolt for this thing..
 

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ran into this with my brothers Nighthawk. As a last resort, we ended up just drilling the head of the bolt off and finding a compatible bolt at the hardware store since Honda doesn't offer the bolt anymore.

Drilled about 90% through the head (didn't want to run into the bottom of the fork) then just beat the bolt head with a hammer and punch a few times until it snapped loose.
 

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Alpha Geek
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, that's my last resort. If I drill the head off, how much tension is still left in the threads? Can I just cut a little groove in the remaining shaft to use a screwdriver? Or is it tighter so l I need to use an extractor or drill it all and tap? IIRC that's the valve assembly on the other end? I don't want to drill/tap that if I can help it..
 

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Once you get the head off the allen head bolt, as NDR, described. The alloy slider should come off and you'll probably be able to spin what's left of the bolt out with your fingers.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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use a chisel and cut a slot in the top or the allen head then use a large flat head bit on a rachet to get the bolt loose
 

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Dr. Vulcanstein
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Instead of using the next size Allen key try using a star torx bit on a ratchet. If not a set of "easy outs (around $9)from harbour freight have saved me about 4 times.
 

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Once you get the head off the allen head bolt, as NDR, described. The alloy slider should come off and you'll probably be able to spin what's left of the bolt out with your fingers.
Exactly, once the head is broken off, it all just slides apart and you should be able to spin the threaded part of the bolt out by hand. Or at worst, put a screwdriver through the holed in the damper and use a wrench on the bolt. either way, it will come off pretty easy.

Another thing that may help:
get the fork of the bike if it isn't already, turn it upside down, and have a helper hang their full weight off the bottom slider of the fork compressing it. This might take just enough force off the bolt to let whatever bit you can get to bite in there to break it loose.

Edit: be sure to take the plastic cap off the top before doing this, otherwise it'll probably break when someone puts their full weight down on it
 

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Alpha Geek
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
That sucker was way too tight for the slot/screwdriver method. I ended up cutting some points for a torx using a dremel, then hammering it in for a tight fit. No go, so I found an $8 hand impact tool and it worked amazingly. Best money I've spent on tools, aside from a decent torque wrench. Could have drilled it just as easily but I wanted to try that tool anyway.

Seals are done and she rides so tight on 20w and 10.5" shocks. More like a Porsche than a minivan now.
 
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