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Premium Member
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Gypsy:

If you ever read this, I want to thank you for sharing your wisdom, experience, and thoughts. All of it has been beneficial.
 

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I remember gYpSy. She and I corresponded by email a couple of times. I always wondered what happened to her. She felt the same way as I do about a lot of things. We has a mutual friend, the late Gene Berg, the worlds greatest air cooled VW builder, mechanic, tuner, and racer. I also used to drag race a VW bug, now I race an '85 Camaro S/ST. Jerry.
 

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Search Goddess
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(More of a misplaced post right now I believe. )
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Correction - Regulator/Rectifier not grounded through casee

gYpSy Michelle, I have learned a lot from your website, and will be coming back for future reference I am sure.

I have found one error in your #3 tech article on "Undercharged Battery", part of which is copied here. The bold and color emphasis are mine.

Quote: "I suspected a dying alternator/regulator and the battery wasn't being charged consistently--that would explain the weak battery and missing due to low voltage.. I addressed the weak battery condition by suspecting either a faulty battery or poor charging flow to the battery. In all cases, (running or not) the voltage tested fine as per the Kawa Service Manual—12.5 volts without engine running/13.5-15 volts revving engine to 4000 rpm (at the battery terminals). It wasn't until a friend suggested a similar problem he once had with an old Harley and he ran a "jumper wire" from the metal regulator case (under battery) to a good ground (frame) that his problems went away. I figured what's to loose in doing so, so I tried it and my battery cranking amps suddenly worked like a miracle! Quite noticably, a battery that once only cranked the starter 3 trys with a great deal of effort, now spins the starter into outer space (!) and I can now run all my light accesories without that idling fear of the battery being undercharged. I simply ran a 12 gauge wire with eye connector ends, from the regulator fastener (bolt head and I put a star washer underneath it) up to the frame ground fastener tab for the battery. Difference of night and day....!

Corrosion over time has a way of "insulating" any electrical connection, and the ground side is completely dependent on clean connections. Since the regulator on the Vulcan 750 is dependent on good ground conduction *through the battery box*, it's no wonder with all that tortuous sheetmetal and the fact that Kawasaki uses a smooth surfaced fastener flanged bolt at the regulator mount, it's entirely possible that if your bike has seen some goodly miles, this may help you too!" Close Quote

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After double checking with an open thread on the electrical forum, and a response from lance328 to confirm my facts, I would like to make a correction to this article.

The regulator/rectifier IS NOT GROUNDED THROUGH THE CASE. It is grounded through the black wire in the wiring harness connection.

It seems to me that the improved electrical performance must be due to a better ground connection after taking the battery ground cable bolt out and reattaching it to the frame, or even the redundant ground to the frame via the jumper wire. But the fact remains that the r/r case does not ground to the frame.

Respectfully, OlHoss.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Correction - Regulator/Rectifier not grounded through case

gYpSy Michelle, I have learned a lot from your website, and will be coming back for future reference I am sure.

I have found one error in your #3 tech article on "Undercharged Battery", part of which is copied here. The bold and color emphasis are mine.

Quote: "I suspected a dying alternator/regulator and the battery wasn't being charged consistently--that would explain the weak battery and missing due to low voltage.. I addressed the weak battery condition by suspecting either a faulty battery or poor charging flow to the battery. In all cases, (running or not) the voltage tested fine as per the Kawa Service Manual—12.5 volts without engine running/13.5-15 volts revving engine to 4000 rpm (at the battery terminals). It wasn't until a friend suggested a similar problem he once had with an old Harley and he ran a "jumper wire" from the metal regulator case (under battery) to a good ground (frame) that his problems went away. I figured what's to loose in doing so, so I tried it and my battery cranking amps suddenly worked like a miracle! Quite noticably, a battery that once only cranked the starter 3 trys with a great deal of effort, now spins the starter into outer space (!) and I can now run all my light accesories without that idling fear of the battery being undercharged. I simply ran a 12 gauge wire with eye connector ends, from the regulator fastener (bolt head and I put a star washer underneath it) up to the frame ground fastener tab for the battery. Difference of night and day....!

Corrosion over time has a way of "insulating" any electrical connection, and the ground side is completely dependent on clean connections. Since the regulator on the Vulcan 750 is dependent on good ground conduction *through the battery box*, it's no wonder with all that tortuous sheetmetal and the fact that Kawasaki uses a smooth surfaced fastener flanged bolt at the regulator mount, it's entirely possible that if your bike has seen some goodly miles, this may help you too!" Close Quote

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After double checking with an open thread on the electrical forum, and a response from lance328 to confirm my facts, I would like to make a correction to this article.

The regulator/rectifier IS NOT GROUNDED THROUGH THE CASE. It is grounded through the black wire in the wiring harness connection.

It seems to me that the improved electrical performance must be due to a better ground connection after taking the battery ground cable bolt out and reattaching it to the frame, or even the redundant ground to the frame via the jumper wire. But the fact remains that the r/r case does not ground to the frame.

Respectfully, OlHoss.
 

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Premium Member
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spam
 

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Member? ... check.
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Thanks for the correction Gordon. I agree that good amperage to the starter requires a solid grounding of the frame to the battery. I definitely saw a difference in the "life" of the bike after cleaning and tightening the ground points. I was at one point having the same type issue. I think maybe that should be a pointer given as a necessary thing to do to the new folks here, same as telling them to get a gel battery.
 

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Registered
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Pretty bike!
 

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gYpSy michelle here !

Hey guys....
Your posts just about brought a tear to my eyes! I had no idea that what i had once upon a time meant so much to so many..I am humbled.
Yes, life has a funny way sometimes....I know many of you have moved on and probably aren't reading this, but I'll explained what happened anyway.
Timeline 2005....I was about to get married and he and I had already purchased a piece of land in Arkansas and literally the day we were going to make the down payment for a loan to the bank to break ground (contractors standing by). "Mr. Wonderful", my ex-fiancee of 8 years living together suddenly announced he "needed to let me go" and decided on somebody else he'd been secretly seeing. No reason, no ryhme. I went through a totally personal crisis and my life suddenly had the brakes slammed on. I had to give up everything I had and start over---right down to a computer. I had to figure out what I was going to do with the emotional turmoil and depression I was going through and Alaska seemed like a wise choice considering I'd always wanted to move there for the adventure in me and it turned out to be everything I hoped for. In 2006, I bought a house I'm living in today. I rode the VN750 until 2008 when parts became so very difficult to locate and my aviation job didn't afford me the time to work on the Vulcan as much as I needed to. I parted it out and rode the Honda until 94K miles until a rebuild then more trouble and I'm about to retire that. A friend offered a Harley Softail to buy in 2009 as he wasn't going to ride anymore, so I bought it and commute to work and ride the roads of Alaska with it now. I'm looking to find an "Alcan-Worthy" (highway from the lower 48 to Alaska) bike sometime soon and finally get to take a vacation (been a very long time) riding across the continent again.

I had successfully ridden the Vulcan 750 well over 250K miles in two different bikes and 3.5 engines!

Anyway, I found this site through a search that Phillip Martin told me about--he purchased one of my parts on Ebay and I told him who I was.
Thanks again to all of you for caring as much as you did for what I once had the priveldge to share with you ! I hope everyone is doing well and riding their 750's forever
 

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Super Moderator
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OMG...So cool to hear from you again. Life can throw you a few twists that's for sure, but am glad you've seemingly survived and are doing well.
I hope you check in here now and then, your original input and info on the Vulcan was and is required reading to many here, so I'm glad to finally say Thank You. :) And also say Thank You for all the others here, past, present, and future.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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wow a blast from the past.thanks for your website. do you have any pics of Alaska? I do my traveling through others

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
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Good to hear from you, Gypsy. Part of your bike lives on mine. I always admired the paint job on your Vulcan. Beautiful!
 

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Search Goddess
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Very first post on this thread has a link to the archived site. I clicked the "clicky here" and it still works.
 
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