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Discussion Starter #1
so this may seem like a dumb question, but its an important one:

what item gets what fluid, and where does it fill/check at?

reason i ask is because on the left side toward the back is a site gauge that reads low. i checked the tank on the right side, but that has its own gauge on it (still dont know what it is though). i know maintenance is extremely important, but its hard when you dont know what fluid is low and where it goes lol. i'd like to think there is fluid in the back wheel too, but i dont know where.
 

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so this may seem like a dumb question, but its an important one:

what item gets what fluid, and where does it fill/check at?

reason i ask is because on the left side toward the back is a site gauge that reads low. i checked the tank on the right side, but that has its own gauge on it (still dont know what it is though). i know maintenance is extremely important, but its hard when you dont know what fluid is low and where it goes lol. i'd like to think there is fluid in the back wheel too, but i dont know where.
Left side sight guage is your oil level. Right side is your coolant level. There is a nut to remove on the rear of the driveshaft to check your gear oil level.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
been looking for a manual, but can't find one anywhere. seat mod/sissybar was pretty easy thanks to posts on this site, and the mcct conversion was extremely easy and very much needed. this is my first liquid cooled bike, or shaft driven for that matter, so there's still a bunch i'm getting used to. not to mention, i used to be rich (or at least i though i was lol) and had a newer harley and had mechanics work on it for me. then i went to a yamaha fj600 (crotch rocket). this is my first kawasaki, foriegn v twin, liquid cooled, and shaft driven bike.

i know the oil is 10w40 (says on the fill plug lol), but what about the coolant? 50/50 mix of standard green coolant? rear end, 80/90? is there fluid for the transmission? i would assume not, but better to ask than to find out the hard way.

as you can tell, i have LOTS to learn lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so i saw someone who had a stator problem and mentioned something about it not working properly and messing with the way the engine ran due to low oil. my level is at the very bottom of the site gauge when on the center stand. how much oil does it take to get back to full? that actually may solve some issues i'm having
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
so i saw someone who had a stator problem and mentioned something about it not working properly and messing with the way the engine ran due to low oil. my level is at the very bottom of the site gauge when on the center stand. how much oil does it take to get back to full? that actually may solve some issues i'm having
Less than a qt. Maybe half at most?

The stator is cooled by the oil, so if you are low, your stator is not being cooled as well.
 

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so i saw someone who had a stator problem and mentioned something about it not working properly and messing with the way the engine ran due to low oil. my level is at the very bottom of the site gauge when on the center stand. how much oil does it take to get back to full? that actually may solve some issues i'm having
Pour in the oil slowly a little bit at a time until the oil level almost fills the sight gauge. *simple* ;-) a full oil change with a new filter take just about 4 quarts of oil. to top off from where your at should be approximately half a quart give or take a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
what would symptoms of an overheated stator be? i started having problems with my lights going dim intermitantly, but havent had a chance to start checking it out yet
 

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Let's Ride!!
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been looking for a manual, but can't find one anywhere. seat mod/sissybar was pretty easy thanks to posts on this site, and the mcct conversion was extremely easy and very much needed. this is my first liquid cooled bike, or shaft driven for that matter, so there's still a bunch i'm getting used to. not to mention, i used to be rich (or at least i though i was lol) and had a newer harley and had mechanics work on it for me. then i went to a yamaha fj600 (crotch rocket). this is my first kawasaki, foriegn v twin, liquid cooled, and shaft driven bike.

i know the oil is 10w40 (says on the fill plug lol), but what about the coolant? 50/50 mix of standard green coolant? rear end, 80/90? is there fluid for the transmission? i would assume not, but better to ask than to find out the hard way.

as you can tell, i have LOTS to learn lol
First off, here's a copy of the service manual for you (warning, large file, 114MB):
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/Files for Download/VN750 Manual and Parts.pdf

Next, oil can be 10w40 or 15w40, depending on the weather conditions you have to deal with. Coolant should be a 50/50 mix, and it should be some that is meant for aluminum engines, usually that is the orange variety. The final drive oil according to the manual should be SAE 90 if you are above 41 degrees, SAE 80 below 41. The engine oil is used for the transmission also, no separate transmission fluid needed.

Keep asking questions, it's the best way to learn the things you don't know.
 

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what would symptoms of an overheated stator be? i started having problems with my lights going dim intermitantly, but havent had a chance to start checking it out yet
Mine scoot did that... Loose battery connection. Cleaned and tightened and all was fine.
 

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Battery Dies

1994 Vulcan.
I think I have it narrowed down to the cause of this.
On long rides when the bike stays cool, I can shut it off and start it all day long. It's when I get into town and it is stop and go traffic. The bike gets hot and the fan turns on. This is when it will drain the battery. If I shut it off it will not start again cause the battery is dead. What would be the reason my battery will not charge fast enough to support the fan turning on?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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1994 Vulcan.
I think I have it narrowed down to the cause of this.
On long rides when the bike stays cool, I can shut it off and start it all day long. It's when I get into town and it is stop and go traffic. The bike gets hot and the fan turns on. This is when it will drain the battery. If I shut it off it will not start again cause the battery is dead. What would be the reason my battery will not charge fast enough to support the fan turning on?
In stop and go traffic you will be sitting idling for long periods at red lights, waiting to turn etc. The OEM stator/alternator and reg/rec do not charge at idle speed. You need to get up to 3-4K rpm before much charging occurs.

If you still have a wet cell battery that needs water added occasionally, get rid of it and change in an MF-AGM battery (sometimes refered to as *sealed*).

I have the MF battery now, and she starts every time. Way better than the old wet cell!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i actually just melted the negative terminal on my battery cuz the connection was rusty. ordered a westco platinum edition for about $105 shipped. pretty spendy, but from what i here on this site, well worth the money. got a battery tender for it to. no sence spending that kind of money for a battery to not treat it right
 

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i actually just melted the negative terminal on my battery cuz the connection was rusty. ordered a westco platinum edition for about $105 shipped. pretty spendy, but from what i here on this site, well worth the money. got a battery tender for it to. no sence spending that kind of money for a battery to not treat it right
I got a battery tender (Jr.) with my Westco too. I think in the five years I had the bike I used the charger 2 times. AGM batteries hold a charge alot longer than wet cells.

My point here is not to over use the charger. Most folks that I've read here that had problems with their AGM batteries seemed to use their chargers alot.
 

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Does anyone offer a solution for this. Like a different set up that can be installed so the charging happens at a lower RPM? I am the only one out of the guys I ride with that has a Vulcan and they say that they have never had a problem with this. They tell me that their bikes charge at idle. Even on hot days when their fan kicks on a lot, it does not drain the battery. Is there a fix for this issue on the Vulcans?
 

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Your battery should not drain that quickly, go get it checked. Also my fan only runs for a minute or so at a time, how long does yours stay on? And again if you have a wet cell battery that could be part of your problem, the AGM batterys are much stronger and our bikes likes them.
 

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Sparky!!!
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Does anyone offer a solution for this. Like a different set up that can be installed so the charging happens at a lower RPM? I am the only one out of the guys I ride with that has a Vulcan and they say that they have never had a problem with this. They tell me that their bikes charge at idle. Even on hot days when their fan kicks on a lot, it does not drain the battery. Is there a fix for this issue on the Vulcans?
There is a fix for this.. its called a MOSFET R/R... try searching the sight fo r it.. there is lots of good information on the conversion.. kinda spendy, but worth it, and very easy to do.
 
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