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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so i am going to start a thread to go along with the album for the rebuild of my 85 VN700. Some members have already wished me well, and given info. I do greatly appreciate it. As I stated in my newbie post my 700 came to me in pieces. The engine was out of the frame, final drive had been sold off along with the 2 front frame covers, wiring harness was in place but not connected to anything(P/O had it off, I had him put it back). Tank was loosely bolted in place, air box and back rest MIA in the P/O's garage, took week for him to find them. Engine was running poorly and so the P/O had broken it down to find out the problem. Turns out that there was a spun rod bearing/bushing. I had him put it back together so I could take it apart and bag and catolog the small parts, bolts, nuts. He did not put the rods back in, but thats an easy thing to do when I rebuild. I also got 3 mid sized boxes with the drive shaft, coils, filter boxes, battery, mics bolts, nuts, bushing, washers, clamps, factory exhaust(minus the right side heat shield), aftermarket harley slip-on sportster mufflers/w heat shields. I know there was other stuff there but I can't remember it all now.

I have since reconnected the wiring harness to all that i can and put the batter in place, all that will work with out the engine works. Took the tank off and removed the cap as the key for it and the helmet locks was lost. took the lock cylinder out out of the tank cap and put the cap and latch back on. reattached the brake and clutch levers, as they were off. Remounted the kick stand. Remounted the backrest and tool box. I will need to repair the hing for the tool box door as it has seperated from the main body. Sorted the mics bolts, nuts, bushings, washers and bagged them. Decided that painting the front fender, tank and side covers was needed as thy all are showing a lot of wear in one form or another. I will keep the base color black with flame graphics on the fender and tank and a new vulcan log on the side covers. I may even include "VN700" on the side covers if i dont do a swap to a 750.

Did order the frame covers and final drive from EBAY. So is $112/w shipping a good deal on the final drive?? I will be putting the final drive on very soon as I have this strong need to see my bike rolling even with out the engine.

I think that is now about it. Not sure if anyone else would see this as a lot to do in 3 weeks, but it seems as such to me. There will be more as I get time to and i progress...

Live Free, ride much!!!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Discussion Starter #4
I did get to look at the splines before placing my Buy Now order for the drive. Pics showed good clean sharp edges. Thats how they looked when the drive arrived 4 days after ordering. If they hadn't it would have gone back immdiately. I was considering the piano hinge or a pair of small box/door hinges. I did forget to mention that the lock/latch for it is gone. Another item the P/O sold off. I'm going to be searching local hardware stores for a keyed lock latch that may work. Although thats a little down the "to do" list

Live Free, Ride well
 

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Hinge for the tool box cover

I just used duck tape on the inside. Looks perfect and works well. You don't see it unless you open the tool box, then it doesn't look bad. Might have to be replaced down the road, but it is cheap and does the job. I guess all I use mine for is my insurance card. Here in Illinois you have to carry proof of insurance. Maybe that is a rule in most states.

Mcneuby
 

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romeobravo172
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Yea, good old duct tape does just fine, mine split about half way and could not find a hinge I liked,a blind man running for his life would never see that! Plus can never tell when a piece of duct might save the day---now if I can figure out a good place for a coat hanger--lol
 

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If you are going to start from the very beginning, might as well clean up the frame good while you have the chance, pull the swingarm and steering head and check, lube, adjust, or replace the bearings as necessary. The only bike I ever built from the frame up was a '79 Yamaha XS650, and that engine is so much less complicated than the Vulcan. I had to build my own wiring harness for it, as it came without one. Mine came out a lot simpler than the oem one. I actually stripped the frame down and repainted it. That was back about 1990. eBay was not around back then, but I found all the parts I needed at a local salvage yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Jerry that is good advise. Once I have gotten to the point where I am about ready to put the motor back in I am going to clean and check everything else, that i have not already checked. I've already been working on cleaning and checking parts and components such as the wheel bearings, fork seals, rear shocks, all electrcal connections, throttle cables(this i hung and lubed because the P/O told me the decel was hanging up a bit) clutch and choke cables, rear brake drum; cable, shoes, petal. Again I'm not a mechanic but common sense says that I need to check everything and so far there have only been a few minor fixes to my vulcan, other then the motor. The only thing so far that I have found and not yet fixed is the sight window on the front brake master cylinder. I have already found on this forum a fix for it and as i do have some scrap plexiglass floating around. I figure a disc of that and a little 2 ton epoxy will take care of it.

As of this morining I now also have Moly 60 in hand and i will be putting the final drive on and reattaching the rear wheel/tire. I know that its a little premature to do so, but I have strong need to see my vulcan rolling even without the motor in it. So after lunch I will hole up in the garage until its done.

:smiley_th:smiley_th:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
All seemss to be going well :smiley_th
:beerchug:
:beerchug:

Yeppers Swag all is going very well. Check out my album friends. only took me 20 minuts to get the rear end all back togethter:smiley_th

Now got to wait @ week for the needed $$$$ to get to the motor work..ie crank turned, rod bearings and crankshaft dampener bushings replaced. As i will be working tomorrow I'm going to wait to start the tear down of the motor until Sat or Sun. In the mean time I think I remove the front fender and start preping it and the tank for paint. At this point because I am leaving the base color black and the rear fender looks fine, just needs a good rub and wax. I will not be repainting it. Then after the $$$$ comes in for the motor work i will get the needed airbrush equipment and start practicing my technic for doing the flame graphics I'm going to put on the fender and tank. Should be a fun and productive next couple of weeks.
 

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Wow, I'm amazed. I thought the rods and crank were a pressed together assembly. Not only are they separate parts, but there appears to be one undersize big end bearing available as well. Kawasaki got something right. Now if they had only done the cams the same way.
 

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Hey fireman, your mention of flame graphics reminded me of some chrome flames I saw on the side a Peterbuilt engine hood yesterday when I was fueling up my truck. The flames were kind of dancing or waving like a flag. Almost like the front was attached to the hood and the flames were free to flex a bit in the wind. The closest I got was about 100 feet before he left, so I don`t really know what they were or how they worked.

It was really neat though!!

Too bad there is probably no application for a motorcycle. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey fireman, your mention of flame graphics reminded me of some chrome flames I saw on the side a Peterbuilt engine hood yesterday when I was fueling up my truck. The flames were kind of dancing or waving like a flag. Almost like the front was attached to the hood and the flames were free to flex a bit in the wind. The closest I got was about 100 feet before he left, so I don`t really know what they were or how they worked.

It was really neat though!!

Too bad there is probably no application for a motorcycle. :(


Yeah that sucks cause that would be cool :smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Roach! Great how to vids for tearing down and rebuilding the motor. As I am about to under take this I have decided that I will wait until I have gotten a service manual, as roach had in the vids. Although I do have 2 PDF service manuals downloaded. Its a bit much $$$$ to print one out as it is 2300+ pages. It would cost me more to print one out then to pay a service shop to do the motor rebuild for me. Having my vulcan running by the end of Feb may not be possible. I am going to be gone for a week on a cross country trip. I did say this was going to be a long tedious process. So I'll just have to be more patient. I am going to give a shot a winning a bid on a service manual tomorrow morning, wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ebay auction won. Clymer vn700-750 service repair manual soon to be on its way. Descions! Descions! descions! I think I am at least going to start tearing it down. Don't really need the service manual on hand to start pulling easy stuff off. Roach's vids r great and if i get stuck I can always take time to view the one that is relevant. I am going to wait until Mon though, as I have a full day off and to myself. I will start preping tank and frt fender today however.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks much for that info nite. LOL I guess I'll need to perfect turning a wrench with my left hand. That way I can get it right...LOL

On another note my friends. I wet sanded the frt fender and tank, today, in prep for priming. I put the pics up in my project album.
 

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Roach! Great how to vids for tearing down and rebuilding the motor. As I am about to under take this I have decided that I will wait until I have gotten a service manual, as roach had in the vids. Although I do have 2 PDF service manuals downloaded. Its a bit much $$$$ to print one out as it is 2300+ pages. It would cost me more to print one out then to pay a service shop to do the motor rebuild for me. Having my vulcan running by the end of Feb may not be possible. I am going to be gone for a week on a cross country trip. I did say this was going to be a long tedious process. So I'll just have to be more patient. I am going to give a shot a winning a bid on a service manual tomorrow morning, wish me luck.
Thanks,

One tip I would like to offer is bag and tag everything! It makes the rebuild so much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Roach yw. I do agree that bagging and tagging everything is a must. I do however have a few mics bolts, nuts, washers, spacers, bushings and such. The P/O was kind enough to include in the parts boxes he gave me. Theres not much more then a handfull of any so figureing out where they go should not be too hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My friends and fellow fourm members. I am in need of some advise. I have two options for repairing what is needed on my VN700. I have been told that the current crankshaft can be turned to true the rod journal. I've contacted a few local automotive machine shops an was told that they could, but that they needed to see the crankshaft first to be sure. There are undersized rod bearings available. How undersizied they go I don't know. My concern is that so much material will need to be removed inorder to true the journal that there will not be a bearing size available to work for it. The cost with replacement bearings will be between $130-$180, depending upon how much work is needed for the machine shope to true the journal.

Next option is that I am watching 2 crankshafts on Ebay, one with rods attached one with out rods. The sellers both say that they are in good condition with no damage. As I have a set of good rods I don't necessarily need the rods. Cost of the crankshaft without rods is currently $160 with the "make offer" option. Cost of the bearings is @ $25-$30 for a full set, from the dealership.

I am wanting any and all thoughts on which way I should go. As the cost is roughly the same, cost is not a consideration.
 
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