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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my 2004 VN750 this past July and she has been running great! The previous owner apparently didn't know the importance of keeping the splines lubed up and the final drive oil healthy. I was taking off after a stop light and heard a POP and lost power. With the clutch pulled and the bike in first it sounds like the teeth in the coupling are grinding the teeth from the final drive. If i leave it in first and shut the bike off i can move the bike freely forward and back and clearly hear the sound where the driveshaft meets the final drive.

So now for the issue. Today I took the back tire off and unbolted the final drive. When I tried to pull it off the final drive would not come out of the coupling. The only give it had came from the ujoint sliding off of the shaft that goes to the tranny. I put some good force into tugging on the final drive but it would not come out of the coupling.

Anyone have this issue or have any advice?? Any and all help is appreciated!

Thanks, Bradyn
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Big hammer?

Sounds like the high spots have mated together. You could try starting the bike and getting it to spin off.....
yea,that sounds like a FUN idea...

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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I used a 2 foot long lead pipe to get a good angle and then hit the top of that with a 5 pound hammer. I couldn't get it to budge. I'm hoping i don't have to cut the coupling.
 

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Could try putting the rear back together loosely, with just a bolt or two, put the wheel back on ... then with the trans in gear, try turning the rear wheel backward, trying to get the splines to slip off where they're jammed, or realign with good splines if there are any.

Also might need to bump the shaft forward a little, in case the pulling rearward has jammed it tighter. (before putting the bolts or wheel on)
 

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I bought my 2004 VN750 this past July and she has been running great! The previous owner apparently didn't know the importance of keeping the splines lubed up and the final drive oil healthy.
Seems like the New owner didn't know the importance either, lol. That's one of the things I've done with every one of these bikes I've bought & sold is to check the splines. Costly lesson, hope you get back on the road and enjoying it soon.
 

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I wonder if it could be as simple.... naw, can't be! When you finally do get it separated, check the mating surfaces where the final drive mates up to the drive shaft housing. There shouldn't be anything there. But, if some bozo in the past put some Permatex-type gasket sealer there then that could be contributing to it being stuck. (It would have to be some serious gasket sealer!) There is no need to seal it at all but, ya never know. Once again I am thinking something that shouldn't be, but, life gets weird sometimes. Is there any kind of separation at all between the final drive and drive shaft housing? I wasn't quite clear on if it was flat out stuck together or separated by a smidgeon but won't release any further. Spockster has a good idea about seeing if you can nudge the driveshaft forward. I like to check easy stuff first so also verify that there is not a washer stuck on one of the four bolts preventing it from sliding out. There shouldn't be but you'll feel like a doofus later if it IS something simple like that. I've been a doofus many times because I would skip over simple answers, thinking something was more complicated than it actually was.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I finally got it off! It took about 20 minutes with a lead pipe, a sledge hammer, and a trusting friend. I'll upload pictures of the splines and couplings, they are beyond shot. Thanks for all the comments and support through this interesting predicament! Send anyone who needs to see how bad splines can get here!
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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yup that is what we call toast.stick a fork in it,she's done

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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yup that is what we call toast.stick a fork in it,she's done

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk

Huh-a-yup, that busted case don't hurt it a bit, she's toast Clark. :grin2:

Good news is, there's usually quite a few shafts and drives on ebay at decent prices if you shop a little.
 

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Retired USAF (IYAAYAS)
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Well, it appears that you didn't damage the drive shaft housing when ripping the thing apart. That's "something" I guess. At least when you get a replacement final drive assembly and get it all reassembled you'll KNOW the splines were lubed! Now, how's the back tire for wear/age? If its long in the tooth, this may be an opportune time to do that, too and put them both on the same maintenance schedule: change the tire and lube the splines.
 
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Looks like the high parts of both splines were on top of each other, and jammed together.
 

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Question ( I have not seen this info anywhere here ) -- How do you know if the "teeth" are toasted or still ok?
I see in boitker's post he is holding a coin up -- is there a recommendation like this ( tire-tread style )?

I had thi same issue today -- final drive stuck to the coupling.
There was a gap; but, they were not separating. Sprayed a load of liquid wrench in there around the teeth area.
Came back after a couple of hours and it pulled right off...

Final drive is reddish -- dont know if it was completely dry cause of the liquid wrench ...
Teeth look worn; but, not as bad as some I've seen here -- anyone have "good" teeth to show ( not yours... ) so we can compare?

Coupling side looks decent.

I am digging into this because the bike suddenly would not go into gear. No noise at the time; but, no movement -- like it was in neutral all the time..
If not this, then something with the engine side?
 

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Could be the shift linkage broken in the engine. Does the shift lever feel sloppy with no spring action?

If the coupler is red inside, it was rusty and dry. You can find pics on Google image search, vn750 splines. Or look on eBay for pics.
 

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I’m not sure if there’s a spec on the final drive splines. If I had a new shaft and coupler I could take a caliper and measure it and come up with some numbers.
If you have a caliper you could measure the internal and external teeth on both and figure something out.
I agree it would be a great benefit to have some guide on when the teeth are worn enough to be a concern.
 
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