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Discussion Starter #1
I just changed the oil in my final drive and the old stuff came out very very dirty. I just bought the bike a couple weeks ago and the PO had the drive shaft replaced in '09. I am pretty sure that was the last time the oil was changed. So, I was wondering if this condition of the oil is normal?
 

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2 Vulcans
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When I changed mine I didn't worry about the color of the old oil. I just collected it in a cup and after waiting a bit to allow settling, I put a magnet in the oil and drug it around the bottom the cup to see if it picked up any metal bits/shavings.
Didn't find anything so that made me happy and I refilled it with new oil and went on with my next project.
 

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gun slinger
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I was going to run some marine pennzoil 80w90 lower unit gear oil. I mean if it can protect the gear cases,it should be able to stand up to my bike
......right???
 

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here's a question, how do you know how much oil to add?
 

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Final drives are pretty harsh environments for an oil. They get hot, do alot of work, and the do not get circulated and filtered like engine oils. And we are talking about not alot of oil doing this work.

Synthetics shine in hard use applications, and can take high temps without suffering as much as organic oils. You don't need to change the FD oil as often, so a good synthetic just makes sense. I mentioned Mobil one only because it usually scores highest in independent tests.


Any "hypoid" gear oil in the 70-90 weight range will work, and any synthetic is likely better than any organic here.

I should point out that many times when you buy a "marine" or motorcycle oil... It is the same oil they sell for autos, they just have stuck on a new label and jacked up the price.

Unless your talking about a high performance boat, you can't really compare it to a high revving motorcycle engine.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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here's a question, how do you know how much oil to add?
Clymer manual, Chapter 3 Page 105. Use 150 ml (5.07 oz US) gear oil in FD.
(One quart/liter is enough for about 6 changes.)

Put the bike on the center stand and fill it through the top until the oil just starts to spill out over the threads. Spin the rear wheel a bit while filling.
I just found a short time ago that the top "fill hole" that KM mentions is located at 2 o`clock on the circumference of the FD and requires a 6mm Allen/hex wrench to remove.
It is just the right size to admit the nozzle on the liter bottle of gear oil.
Much cleaner and easier to add oil there, as KM directs, than in the large "oil level check hole" @ 3 o`clock on the face of the FD.

KM, does it matter which way the rear wheel is rotated as the gear oil is added to the FD?
 

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Banned
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Clockwise......draws the oil in instead of out the oil level hole. But that will be obvious once you try it......
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Clockwise......draws the oil in instead of out the oil level hole. But that will be obvious once you try it......
Thanks. So many things are, once you start!:smiley_th
 

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Which threads should the gear oil come out of? The top allen screw hole or the side hole with the cap off filling it from the allen screw hole.
 

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Which threads should the gear oil come out of? The top allen screw hole or the side hole with the cap off filling it from the allen screw hole.
Uh, the big one..... Guessing that's your second statement.

Once the oil just starts to flow out of that big hole screw the cap back on, screw in the other bolt if needed and your done. If you used synthetic oil you got a good 25-30,000 miles before you need to do it again....
 

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I just did mine and uses synthetic oil. The recommended amount of 150ml didn't seem like enough.

I did like Knifemaker said and filled it up to the bottom threads of the large fill hole and spun the tire to work it in a bit.
After you run it at highway speeds the first time, some oil may come out the vent hone inside the case, which will eventually drip out the bottom of the case. Just keep an eye on it for a few days to make sure you don't get oil on your rear tire.
 

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romeobravo172
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Just did mine on wed,was amazed at how little came out, or so what I thought! I can sure see why a tube will do appx 6 changes. That was easy and not expensive, do not think I will wait 10-20k to do it again.
 

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I don't know what Allen bolt you are talking about. Mine has a small hex head drain bolt at the bottom, and then the big fill plug up higher. I drain it out the drain plug, usually overnight, then put the drain plug back in, remove the large fill plug, use a gear oil bottle with a spout, put a clear plastic hose on the spout to reach the fill plug, then put rags up under the bottom of the gearcase to catch any overflow, and fill it until oil starts running over the threads. I let it sit to make sure the level doesn't drop, then put the plug back and clean everything up. This should all be done with the bike upright with the bike on the centerstand. If you do it on the sidestand, you will not get the gearcase full. I have even put a 2x4 under the left side of the centerstand before, to tilt the bike slightly to the right, so I could get a tiny bit more in. I never had a problem with it coming out the vent by doing that. Since it does have a vent, there is no danger of blowing seals or anything, the worst it can do is make a mess when it comes out the vent opening. as always with oil (except automatic transmissions) it is better to have slightly too much than not enough.
 

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Uh, the big one..... Guessing that's your second statement.

Once the oil just starts to flow out of that big hole screw the cap back on, screw in the other bolt if needed and your done. If you used synthetic oil you got a good 25-30,000 miles before you need to do it again....
Thank you for your response, I thought that is the way it is supposed to be done. I do my other bike the same way, I have just read about so many little quirks with our VN750's that I thought I would ask and double check. Here's another dumb question. My bike is a 86 model in which I am sure the guy before me did not use any synthetic oils in it. Will it hurt it if I swap the original gear oil with a synthetic oil being that it is the age it is or should I stick with the basic gear oil? I am not swapping the engine oil to synthetic as it is an older bike I do not want to hurt anything in the engine.
 
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